Hills_90

Thanks for all the replies, I appreciate your advice. It’s good to know that it is at least possible, so that in the future it is theoretically possible to have a full garage. I think I will look into cantilevered ports for the time being and go forward from there

I have had one this morning they are quite happy in principle, they would just like a heads up with a drainage plan before the agree just so they know there will be no water damage etc. Which is fair enough Would it be possible to pitch down to their wall and put some kind of small lead gulley at the lower end leading to a guttering on the face?

I can see that would be the easier way I was just thinking in advance, at the moment it will just be a car port but eventually it might end up being a garage. if it already spans the gap then a conversion would be easier, if a cantilever is there then I would have to remove it to build the garage. Although if it’s not possible then cantilever it is!

It’s exactly 3 metres

I know where the boundary is as I have the original plans from 1935 my house was only the second built on the road and the plans are scaled. The extension is smack bang on the boundary. I don’t see it being a massive issue as they don’t own the house anyway, it’s being rented to them by my former neighbour. So I’m sure as long as it is all done correctly they will be fine. As said really the issue is if I have to build/use some form of pillars it will make the space too narrow to be a carport, so it’s really knowing if it is even technically possible from a construction point of view

No the gate leads to my garden

Thanks for all your replies a picture does paint a thousand words so here we go; The building on the right is mine and the neighbours is obviously left, the small extension to the back was built many years ago and is my utility. The neighbours extension is built on the boundary so it would be a party wall. My initial thought was to basically extend the small pitched roof at the back all the way forwards, allowing it to be fixed to my building, my small extension and to the neighbours property. However a vent, maybe flue, from the neighbours side would be in the way so it would need to be lower but I thought following the pitch would be more aesthetically pleasing. There are also many guttering overhangs on their property to mine, and they leak frequently!

There is a section of my property at the back of the driveway, so if it was attached to next doors it would be supported on three sides. I haven’t looked too far into this yet but as I understand it because they have built on the boundary a boundary wall agreement should be in place and that would allow me to fix to their property, I think. At this point it’s more wether it is structurally possible for example the pitch would have lead on the apex and where it connects to my annex at the rear, but I have no idea how you would lead the bottom or even if you would lead the bottom etc

Hi Looking for advice on creating a carport, I have a driveway that runs between my property and my neighbours. The neighbours have, at some point, built a 2-storey extension on the property line. This means that the space available to park is big enough but would be very tight if I needed to have some form of columns built to support a roof. Is it possible to affix a pitched roof from my house across to the neighbours house and support in that way? Ie no “foot print” as such just supported by the wall fixings on either side? Thanks for any advice

That makes perfect sense, Thank you

So lose the top red brick, get the insulating block level with the floor insulation so that there is no masonry “contact” from outside to in?

So if i am understanding you both then something along these lines would be more appropriate? With the maroon being the Marmox insulating block

Hi Mr Punter, so you are suggesting, cold bridging aside, the above would be fine without the inner block. Using just the brick to retain the compacted type 1 and presumably only the footing for the brick as the concrete infill between courses would no longer be required either? It needs to pass a building regs check as the front door will be moved into the porch from the existing position. Russell, struggling to find anything that makes sense to me regarding the sole plate and cold bridging could you elaborate a little more please? Would you suggest the use of something like this between the DPC and the sole plate? Or is there a simpler solution I’m not aware of thanks

Thanks for the reply Russell, will look into the cold bridge issue. Are you suggesting that there may be too much insulation across the flooring?

I have also just realised i may have posted in the wrong section if i have apologies feel free to move the post into the foundation section