Mat1

We have this outside https://www.airconditioningworld.co.uk/midea-m4oe-28hfn8-q-8-2kw- And this inside- https://www.ariston.com/es-es/productos/bomba-de-calor/agua-caliente/nuos-evo-a/?keyword=nuos evo a%2B&creative=709892541522&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAADzM6K7Zv4rFcbLtOwZKicV8bOVBB&gclid=Cj0KCQiAq-u9BhCjARIsANLj-s1ejLaxY5GpdQNwlTIVekRkVmGeF12nxFhr34RZAGw287L69X5TZ20aAky-EALw_wcB The 3 bedrooms and living area have independent thermostats. I'm not 100% sure how how it all works. Way more complicated than my last house

This guy below! Around the 12:30 mark. The coldest months January and February will be about 15C in the day and 8C at night/morning. We actually have an air source heat pump for the rest of the house. It does heat up the rooms quickly but they also cool down just as fast. I've got it set to 23C now and it's not as cosy as our previous house in the UK. I've ordered a thermostat and temperature gun to see whats happening here. I think we may need an air-air heat pump for summer cooling anyway. Yes it appears to be totally dry at the moment, we get about 45mm of rainfall per month in winter. I have the extraction running most of the day to make sure we don't have humidity problems. Humidity is definitely a problem for a lot of people here Current roof height is about 2450mm but I expect we will lose quite a bit of that for the new ceiling, services etc. I'd be happy with 2200 at the end of everything. No building regs here lol.

According to a few sources online it seems it's not strictly necessary to insulate the slab if you're going for UFH. That saves one job.

Hi based on the data I could find I would estimate 8-10C. Similar to the the air temperature at its coldest.

I have a 65m2 "semi finished" basement that I want to finish into a cosy entertainment/living space. I'm in Ibiza where the lowest temperature in winter is about 8degrees and we don't get much rain. The houses in general are never warm. Currently the space is uninsulated but dry and well ventilated. Some of my neighbours have done amazing looking conversions but none with any internal damp proofing or insulation. It's hard to know whether it's necessary given the climate. It will have heating of course. Currently the plan is to tank the whole thing with Sika damp proof slurry then low profile insulation for the walls and floor. 25mm XPS/PIR for the walls and floor. The XPS will potentially have the UFH built in. Anything I'm missing here? Can anyone suggest any other build-ups for the walls and floor?

Because the stairs are in the kitchen (open plan downstairs) the hallway is no longer considered an escape route. The window which would normally be the alternative means of escape is not suitable anymore due to the glass side return directly underneath. To give this room an escape route they want us to put in a small door into another room to avoid the hallway altogether ?

We have inadvertently created an inner room from one of our bedrooms upstairs. This is due to our open plan layout downstairs combined with a side return extension. To create a protected escape route we would need to create a small hatch between this room into another. I really don't want to do this. Given we don't actually intend to use this as a bedroom are we able to designate this as a dressing room?

Thanks guys just to clarify it's rads upstairs. Forgot to add that!

I'm renovating a small 2bed victorian. The ground floor is open plan so just a single zone screed UFH system. 3 radiators in the 2 bedrooms+bathroom upstairs. Boiler is half installed waiting for other work to finish. Do I need a thermostat for each floor? I've got a google Nest ordered. Can I just use that downstairs for the UFH and some sort of programmable TRV setup for the upstairs bedrooms? I've never actually lived in a house with a thermostat.

Great do you remember what depth you went for?

Bit the bullet, now we're replacing the entire ground floor with concrete as was suggested by you guys way earlier. Sometimes you just have to come to things in your own time ?? Just trying to figure out the ufh screed situation so we're not waiting months for it to dry but that's another thread!

I believe NHBC (whatever that is) requires 100mm of concrete and a DPM for new suspended floors?

Thanks. The void was more for services and in case anything is screwed up along the way. There is room for 100mm insulation between the joists. 18mm Ply ablove the joists, 15mm UFH boards then 14mm engineered wood to finish.

Hi mate, so this design should work?? 200mm - Filling+concrete DPM - Void - 150mm Joists with insulation in between - (or add insulation to the void?) Thanks

The void is 400mm deep (I think). They've suggested reducing the void to 50mm by filling the bottom of the void with 200mm of concrete+DPM and dropping the joists. The concrete section will be the same and the joists will be extended all the way along. Insulation will still be inbetween the joists. Won't the ventilation be a bit rubbish with the void reduced from 300mm to 50mm?? For some reason I have an irrational fear about replacing the suspended floor with concrete slab! Feels very invasive somehow ?