carlosdeanos

Hello, I have an EV charger going in. Image of consumer unit attached. Would i just need a 32a MCB in the very left hand spare way on the unit? Charger is a BG Sync with built in RCD - I think. I am just concerned about it being with the RCD in the panel. Also, possible surge protection not present. The guides i have watched seem to install a separate box. Yes this will be completed by a qualified electrician but i am just checking his advice as it seems a bit odd to me. If the single MCB addition will work, that will be great. Thanks very much.

Thanks all, look like about £300 for the ply so will have to go with that I think.

I have floor joists and have put insulation board between them. I am then using pre grooved floor grade 22mm chipboards which I put the pipes in for my underfloor heating. They ask for a 6-9mm ply to be placed over the top before the final finish. At the moment the final finish will be a vinyl tile or laminate. I am just off to the building materials supplier and realised the price of ply may be really quite expensive. Can I use anything cheaper without causing issues? Cheers.

Thats a good shout. I think it will need damp proofing but i guess thats just a DPM layer then. I will have a look - thanks.

Seems to be concrete there.

@TonyT I guess so? Thing is the extension runs across two rooms, the lounge and the kitchen. Would i need to get more concrete to do that? You can probably tell this is just me completing the work. Thanks.

Hello, I have a concrete slab floor in an extension. Top layer is concrete, so the insulation is underneath. Original plan was to screed and put heating pipes in to bring the floor up to existing floor height. Now, I have left about 100mm to get the concrete up to existing, more than i hoped. Building control have also told me screed is a tough one to DIY. I asked if i could run joists on the concrete (as its damp proof) then board over, (I would insulate between and put my pipes in there) but they didnt like the idea. They suggested i use poly floor sheets to bring it up, then undefloor heating board (With the pipe runs built in) to match existing floor boards height . Do you think this is the best soution or does anyone have any other ideas? Thanks very much. Picture to help -

What spec would I need that to be in terms of cable? Thanks.

@ProDave that's brilliant thanks a lot.

Hello, I am running in the electrics for a kitchen in an extension. I will then have a professional wire it up to the consumer unit and test. I was hoping someone could tell me what type of circuits I need to use in terms of Ring or Radial? I'm also a bit unsure on the cable thickness and amps. Image below with the following circuits I think I need and my 'guess' on what I need. I did just take a look in the existing consumer unit which was installed last year and I only appear to have 4 spaces left. I guess I will cross that bridge later. Dishwasher - 20A Radial 4mm t+e Sockets - 20A Radial 4mm t+e Spotlights - 6A lighting 1mm t+e Fridge - 15A 1.5mm t+e Laundry/Washer - 20A Radial 4mm t+e Oven and Hob - 32A Ring 10mm t+e Under cabinet lights - 6A 1mm t+e Thanks very much.

Single storey extension. Onto a bungalow, so sloping down to the flat roof on one side. At the moment i have the flat roof joists in place with an overhang, and 1 layer of OSB. Covered in plastic waiting for me to decide what to do next. I have no idea what to go for. I am looking at an EDPM finish to all these. May be worth noting the firings are running back to front as i was originally going for option 1. Options - 1. Cold roof. Probably the easiest to complete from this stage from what i can tell. Also the cheapest. CONS - I’m not too keen on a facia to finish. I think the other options would look nicer. 2. Warm roof - keep the drainage running back to front, still needs facia and guttering. 3. Warm Roof 2.0 - I think this one is called a parapet. Cut the overhang back and build up the outer leaf. Warm roof, then somehow run a drainage gulley to one side. By far the hardest and most expensive option for me. I am not a builder but i have got this far. What would you do? If there are options for nicer looking facia and guttering I would go for option 1 or 2 but I’m struggling to find anything.

@MJNewton Great so I should be okay then really as I think mine is about 160kg.

Thanks both. @nod is that a warm roof?

Hello, hoping I am in the right forum. I am putting a flat roof on an extension. Span is 3.7m at 400mm centres. I'm using 47x170 c24 timbers which I believe are over what I need based on span tables I have found. However I want to add a roof lantern that is 160kg. I was just going to double up the timbers around the lantern. I'm struggling to work out if it will support the load. I keep looking at the kN/m2 but I have no idea what weight it translates to. Any advise appreciated. I think I'm just asking if the joists will be okay? Cheers.

@Declan52 Thanks. I have actually just stumbled upon something called Weber OCR and am toying with that now as well. Cheers though.