learner

Know of any UK suppliers????

Hi Can i buy real marble or granite 'white with blue vain' tiles for bathroom floor and walls?? Also can i tile my vaulted ceiling??

Thanks All. Ill double check my numbers and probebly stick to the Glow worm Gas.

that's what i think but aren't gas price going to sky rocket??

Hi Experts My extension is ready soon for the heating to be fitted. I was planning to re use my Glow Worm Cond Combi, its only a few years old and is big enough. After the talk of gas prices rising im thinking of an electric combi boiler. My new kitchen is all electric. I have a bath and shower and will add an ensuit shower later. Is this a good alternative? Are they plumbed in as a gas boiler? Any thoughts

My Building Inspector has said i need to be Class 0 Flame retardant on the timber cladding in a narrow corridor between the house and neighbours. Is this something i can do my self or i do i need a certified person . what product should i use if i can do it? Thanks

I thought the same but id rather have the expensive stuff as im not a pro. Hopefully 2 cans will do the job for the next few years and that'll be quite good value

I bought this. Ill let you know how it goes. Osmo UV Protection Oil Extra 420 Clear Satin

My Barrettine preserver has coloured the new pine cladding nicely. Its the protection i need to finish. Wax? Varnish? Poly? Shalack? Also it has just rained on my new work, how many days before i can add second coat of the preserver??

I have used 3 colour types of wood preserver on my shiplap cladding and i think it looks great. It has a very matt finish which it want to keep but want to protect it and make it slightly glossy, maybe eggshell?? Is there a product to finish the cladding that would do this? I may be forced to paint the whole thing white in the future.

So the foil side is always toward the outside of the building??

So its efficiency is dependent on the quality of the finished plaster board?? May sound silly but does the foil side go toward the brick wall or the room??

My builders have left a gap between the new stud and the old brick wall. They have put in 100mm celotex type insulation which is the thickness of the stud but leaves the gap between. Is this a problem, i cant help thinking this gap will be cold in winter and the expensive insulation will be useless..

The wall is just over 10m. Should it be filled with some sort of mastic?

The gap breaks the stretcher pattern of the wall

i have discovered the outer leaf of blocks in my extension has a few mm gap from top to bottom of the wall which looks like it was put for a reason as the blocks are cut. I cant see if the same is on the inner leaf as there is another wall coming off at a right angle. Is this an expansion joint or have they messed up.?

Hi Experts I have a new extension which i am cladding in shiplap. The new walls are brick n block. Do i need put breathable membrane over the blocks, under the batons before i add the cladding?

So from outside to inside goes.... Cladding---breathable membrane---insulation---plastic sheet---plaster board

Hi Experts I have built a new Garden room from timber and shiplap cladding. I want it insulated and plaster boarded. I want to use cheaper wool insulation at 100mm. My question is -should i put the plastic barrier between the cladding and the wool insulation or between the wool insulation and plaster board?? Should i use Plastic sheeting?? If so Should i perforate the plastic sheeting? Should i use breathable membrane instead of plastic??

Building control are signing jobs off as we go and this has happened today

There's no UFH going in, i just wondered if it was correct procedure

My builders have installed 100mm insulation under the slab. Is this correct??

Thanks for answers. I miss read the email and the will only allow Horizontal. I have sent them photos of Vertical cladding on 3 buildings near me so surely there is a president for it. The guy doing my cad drawing seems to want me to just say yes to them for an easy life. Is there a procedure to contest the council decision. The house is clad in plastic so looks like an office or public toilet, lovely timber cladding will only improve it, vert or horiz.

Hi experts I am about to start my first home extension project. I live in a conservation area but house is not listed. It is currently clad in white plastic shiplap...AWFUL. Originally the council said to be in keeping they would only except horizontal shiplap in white painted timber. I want vertical red cedar cladding and after a lot of fussing i think the council will allow vertical shiplap preferably painted white. My question is whether there is a shiplap product that only has a small amount of the scollop visible so it can be officially ship lap but look like contemporary vertical timber cladding. I plan not to paint it but oil it as the word preferably is not a definite. Any advice on vertical natural look timber cladding and getting around the council BS is welcome. Many thanks

Hi Experts I have a small bungalow in Kent in a conservation area, not listed. It is currently clad in hideous white Plastic horizontal cladding intended to replicate a few buildings traditional weatherboard nearby. I am extending the house and want vertical unpainted oiled treated timber, Red Cedar or similar. The council say the i can have vertical Shiplap, Preferably painted white. It is confusing as i thought shiplap has the scalloped bit however i don't want that as it doesnt give the look when vertical. I have seen other samples online of shiplap where the scallop isn't visible and gives the Close look i want but was after some advise on the subject if possible. There is too much info online Any Advise?? Thanks R