GlynM

I've gone with triple glazed Internorm windows, Home pure Timber/alu composites HF410 - 48mm coated clear glass Argon filled 4/18/4/18/4

Correct 6.5m2 of rooflights, one large and 3 small.

Thank you all for your feedback, very useful. Peter, I am located in west Hertfordshire in the Cilterns so a nice intermediate location between Cornwall and The Shetland Isles. Approximate areas below; Roof - 0.1 - 97.5m2 Walls - 0.127 - 137m2 Floor - 0.171 - 104m2 Windows - between 0.68 to 0.78 = 87m2 Rooflights between - 0.8 to 1.09 = 6.5m2 I've set all windows that face vaguely south back within the reveal as far as they will go and whilst I have 1 larger sliding door (6.5m2) that faces south, I am planning an external pergola to keep solar gain down, plus the rooflights will have blinds. Sounds like its not worth the money to add the cooling function to the MVHR which is good news, or heat the upstairs bedrooms, I've left a void next to the stairs in the centre of the house so hopeful that this will aid the movement of heat from the UFH upstairs in winter months. I might still put the future connection in for the upstairs rads, but not connect them (apart from towel rads in the bathrooms). Just need to decide on whether to combine the DHW with ASHP or look at a Ecocent as a separate system. As I understand it, the advantage of keeping them separate is that you wont need to run the ASHP in the summer months or in warmer spring/ summer times. If they were combined then DHW demand in the summer would rely on the ASHP kicking in, if the ASHP modulates, is this a big issue or not to its performance?

Hello, I'm progressing well with the frame installation of my project, with windows in and cladding next on the list I've turned to trying to finalise the heating system. When I set out I thought I was clear that I was going to install a ASHP (circa 5 - 8 kW), cylinder with immersion back up and distribute through UFH downstairs and rads upstairs with a separate MVHR throughout. Now I've come to gather quotes I've been offered various alternatives to this that I'm considering. The house is designed with the following u values and I'm targeting achieving around 1m3/m2/h air permeability, so low energy, without achieving passive house. Roof - 0.1 Walls - 0.127 Floor - 0.171 Windows - between 0.68 to 0.78 Rooflights between - 0.8 to 1.09 Front door 0.8 and back door 1.2 The UFH is already installed so certainly using this as the emitter on the ground floor. The alternatives I'm being presented with are: 1. as I originally planned, but with a cooling option through MVHR 2. a Ecocent for DHW linked to the MVHR system and separate ASHP for heating with UFH installed upstairs as well 3. as option 2 but with electric panel rad option upstairs as the heat demand is low for bedrooms 4. a single combined MVHR and cylinder unit (Nilan) with external ASHP to provide heating, dhw, cooling and ventilation in one (the most expensive option) Whilst there is gas within the nearby road, I am keen not to use it and to install a non fossil fuel solution, I don't have the space for GSH but wouldn't be against solar thermal if it was best. I'd like to keep install costs under control and then use any spare cash in the future to put towards a PV array with battery storage, but think this may be phase 2 as the budget can't stretch that far and I need to move in as soon as practical. I must admit whilst only having a relatively rudimentary understanding of heating systems I am getting confused by all the different 'expert' opinions who all appear to be convinced their solution is far superior to others. I'd appreciate some non-bias advice as to people's opinion the best solutions?

Thanks for your assistance and for the contact at Kingspan - I'll follow it up. Good to know the unvented voids are not an issue - one of the potential roofers was expressing some concern about this arrangement saying he'd never seen this type of arrangement.

Hi, I am out for tender for my flat roof currently, its on two levels designed as a warm roof behind parapets and contains rooflights and a sedum roof to parts. The house is a timber frame with timber I joists supporting a flat ply deck and then I plan on waterproofing over the insulation (either EPDM, Felt or Liquid - still undecided). My question is in part around my debate to go with insulation cut to falls or firings and a level insulation to create a fall. In either scenario I have been looking for the roof to fall to one side and then run in a shallow gully to at least 2 outfalls per level. I've queried with the frame manufacturer whether firings could be installed on the roof joists with the deck above this then creating the required falls. Their response has been that they need the ply directly onto the joists to prevent against racking and that should I go with a firings option then these should be fixed on top of their flat deck with another ply deck to support the insulation placed on top of this. My concern is that I'll be creating an un-vented void here and whilst I believe the dew point will not be within this void, I have concerns about building in this detail. Are the frame manufacturers correct in the racking comment and this build up with a void is sensible (apart from the cost of the additional deck) or would I be building in problems? The other option is I go for tapered insulation directly on the flat deck and avoid this void completely, but as I understand it, this is a more expensive option than firings? Any help/ opinion would be much appreciated.

Thanks all for your views, I've checked references from past jobs and have narrowed the scope so hopefully reducing any risk, which means I'll need to do a bit more myself, but hopefully I can find the right balance between these.

Hi, I'm shortly commencing works to knock down and rebuild my bungalow. I've organised demolition and have decided to go for a supply and erect timber frame package from a specialist company. I'm just waiting on the loadings for my engineer to finalise the ground engineering and I'll be looking for a ground worker to act as the sole contractor to complete drainage and groundworks up to slab. I've also ordered windows on a supply and fix basis. I feel comfortable placing these packages but I'm working full time and as much as I'd like to be on site and PM the works, I need to earn to keep the project going. I've therefore been looking at employing a local PM who can gather tenders for the internal packages and oversee on site, he's also an tradesman so can complete some of the works himself (or assist others). I've met him a couple of times and seen some of the work he's done, which is good and as this is a low energy house, he is also experienced in this field so understands things like the integrity of the airtightness layer. He's suggested a fee to complete the tender packages of the trades, and then a % fee on top of each as his fee for overseeing and coordinating works. I'm not sure this works as his incentive to lower the price of trade packages isn't there in this case so I've debated either looking to agree a fixed fee for a programme, an agreed rate (although this could snowball) or a method where I share my budget cost, agree a fee with him and then a cut of any savings below my budget as an incentive for him to obtain best value? I wonder if anyone has looked at something similar or has a view on what would a fair fee/ best route for this type of role?

Hi Coul you PM the contact also, I'm interested in getting a SIP quote for my project.

Thanks both, I did ask to temp disconnect the gas as its likely I'll reconnect, they said this can't be done and they could only disconnect it now and will have to charge to reconnect at a later date. For the electricity, the £1500 quote was to move it from an overhead to a kiosk and I'd then run a sub-main from that to the house, so I'll have power throughout the build and only one move. I was just wondering if others have had success getting these quotes down as I've only been able to get the single quote for each. Looks like I'll have to go with their quotes. On the water, there is a meter in the road, so I'll have to turn this off and then put a standpipe at the boundary.

Hi, I’m planning on demolishing my current bungalow before starting my self build later in the year. I’ve been out for disconnection quotes for electricity (UKPN) and gas (Cadent), both of which are pretty steep at the £1300 to £1500 mark excluding any trenching. My question is are there any other companies who are permitted to complete disconnections as it seems there is no way of getting a comparable quote, or do you just have to accept the quote they provide you with? Also so for my water supply I’d like to keep it live for the works and just move it, any advice on the best way to do this before the demo guys are let loose? thanks