JeffGiraf

Just downloading an IR app now!

I am pretty sure rads are too small as they are ancient and small by modern standards! Also landlord was cagey anout them which means she knows too! However these rooms heat through rising air too as they are upstairs But downstairs rooms with ufh also struggle kitchen and downstairs bedroom never get above 16degC even with doors closed

What are your radiator sizes? Are the ufh heated rooms warm enough? What is your floor temp in those rooms(cheap laser thermometer will do) Look at what the return temp (parameter 00) and output temp are (09). Ideally they should be 5-7C apart. Ah they are about 2deg apart at best

Ok, but same emitter system used to get house to 20degC when previously supplied by Vito boiler.....why??

Asked this question on anotger thread, but lots going on there, so thought I'd ask separately: What pipe insulation would you use to insulated hot pipes to and from tank and HP? Particularly, how would you go about insulatung the valves, corners and other knobbly bits? The tank etc is all situated in a cold shed so outdoor temps but not exposed. Thanks

Trvs are all open... spunds like emitters are too small.

Open system always on

I stood in the cold shed today and watched this happen ( as I measured pipes for insulation landlord has agreed to get): The flow temp displayed on the remote control heat pump seems to be on a cycle where comes on for 18 mins, starting fast and gradually slowing, bringing the flow temp to 46degC then shutting off for 24 mins. Flow temp drops to 32degC in this time before pump kicks in again. Is this how it should be working?

I think this may be one of the main issues. The mixer only goes up to 55 degC and is now on max ( installers left it on 25 degC took me a while to work this out!). Is it possible to remove the mixer, or the pump and mixer from the system as there is the system pump anyway? Yes I think this is also part of it. I dont know if the installers included the conservatory floor space ( approx 9m2) in the calcs but it is practically outside so I have turned the manifold flow adjuster to 0 for this section. We also have a hallway of about 4m2 which is not working which reduces the effciency too. Sorry is 01. It is on WC. My daughter was after my attention while I typed so I made some mistakes! I will mention it to the installer. Landlord and I emailed today. He was obtuse about upgrading pipe insulation in the freezing shed ( some joints arent even insulated, 28mm pipe has 22mm bore insulation on it and none of it is sealed! ) but we will keep on! Can anyone recommend good pipe insulation? It is pretty much outdoors tempwise but is not exposed as its in a shed. Especially want to know how to insulated the valves and corners and the bits of pipe that are fixed v close to the floor/ wall. Thanks again Jeff

Thanks for your replies so far!

First off important typo: House is about 140m2 or so not 240m2! So that makes it more rubbish! Unfortunately any affordable rental housing is like hens teeth in rural scotland so we make do! I have been talking to thw landlord, but the installers are crap so I was trying to go in a little forearmed with kmowledge! @Nickfromwales House EPC is C at 75 so not the worst but not the best. By taping the doors I meant adding insulation tape not taping them up! And yes ashp was done on a grant no surprise! @ProDavewhat data do I need to calcate the COP? I don't really understand how its done? I didnt know what discharge temp was either but found this: https://www.sciencedirect.com/topics/engineering/discharge-temperature guess 88 is ok then. It is a Grant Aerona tank. I meant no extra jacket or anything. The living room with the burner in it stays at around 17-18degC even overnight with the door to the rest of the house open. Why would the temp gauge at the manifold read around 15degC lower than the flow temp?

Hi all I live in a rented old stone farmhouse in mid Scotland. House is probably 240m2 or so. There is a fairly new ( fitted last March) ashp retrofitted to old UFH downstairs and undersized radiators upstairs ( though a new towel rail was fitted in the bathroom). Landlord (I know her!) did minimum cost install! But the attic has extra insulation now ( but also coombs, which loose heat) and the out of use chimneys are capped and insulated with wool plugs. We have also taped all the doors and have thick curtains and lovely old wood shutters. The heating seems rather expensive. It used an average of 1.6kw per hour over the last 28.25 hours (we have a separate meter for the heat pump). For that the rooms stay around 16degC. Thank goodness for the woodburner. Tank and everything, including the "remote" controller are in a dark shed sandwiched between our house and landlords so I have to sit on a wee fishing stool to monitor! It also means it thinks the temp in the shed is room temperature! Pipes in shed are insulated but not amazingly (normal grey foam insulation - not taped or glued, cable tied at some points). Tank is uninsulated beyond the way it comes, (I plan to get a jacket) but at the moment we are mostly using kettles on the fire for hot water and the immersion for an occasional bath rather than keeping water hot as the heating alone is expensive! I have looked at the WC settings: 2100 0 2102 50 degC 2103 35 degC 2104 -4 degC 2105 20degC Outside temp around 2- -2degC daytime at present and colder at night. Monitor Display Readings a few days were as follows: 00 circulating h2o return temp 44degC ( went up from 38 degC as I watched) 01 Compressor op freq. 0hz 02 Discharge temp 88deg C ( I watched this climb from 30 deg C to 88 over about 3 or 4 mins) 03 power consumption value 100w 04 fan control of rotations 0 05 Defrost temp 2degC 06. Outdoor air temp 2degC 07. H2O pump contol no of rotations 3300rpm 08. Suction temp 4degC ( what is this?) 09. Circulating h2o flow temp went from 39degC to 46degC These were taken as I had previously turned the 50degC high temp down to 45degC but we were all freezing so I put it back up! I looked through all the installer level setting ( installer hadnt noted them in the handbook but I have!) and apart from 2102 and 2103 they are all at default. For some reason the temperature gauge on the manifold flow pipe reads consistently at around 30-33degC. There is a mixer valve but it is set up at 55degC above the temp of the water from the heat pump. Any suggestions on how to make it cost less/more efficient would be much appreciated! Thanks