Gazza1980

I think I need to provide some better photos, as they're obviously not clear. This is a cavity wall in a 1960s bungalow that I'm renovating. There was previously a floating timber floor mounted on a concrete slab. I removed this floor and had the insulated screed floor installed on top of the concrete slab. The wall construction is brick outer leaf, 60mm cavity, block inner leaf, then my screed flooring. The door is mounted directly inline with the outer leaf, but on top of a DPM, some small blocks of wood and then expanding foam infill. The doors do not straddle the cavity in any way. The cavity - which is 60mm wide - has been left entirely open. I'm not sure what you mean about the floor matching what the walls are doing with respect to the cavity. The floor is level with the top of the inner leaf. The outer leaf finishes at around the same height, and the door/wood/foam is then sat on top of this. I have no idea what's required from window and door installation. From my POV, the installer should've at least offered to close the cavity. He quoted me 3-4 days for installation, and did all the windows and doors in a day. So, it was rushed, and I've been left with issues like this as a result. A cavity closer should've been installed prior to the doors going in. But, now, I can't do that unless I find a retrofit cavity closer.

Apologies, I misunderstood your question. Here's my revised response! Ah, yes, my mistake! I'm laying Woodpecker laminate flooring directly on top of the screed. But, the flooring is lower than the lowest edge of the door frame. So, I'm planning to install an small oak step at the bottom of the door opening - so, directly over the top of whatever I use to close the cavity. Otherwise, the Woodpecker would run up to the wood and foam beneath the door frame, and this would be visible.

Hi, the door was installed on top of several wooden lengths, laid perpendicular to the brickwork, and then filled with expanding foam. Ah, yes, my mistake! I'm laying Woodpecker laminate flooring directly on top of the screed. But, the flooring is lower than the lowest edge of the door frame. So, I'm planning to install an small oak step at the bottom of the door opening - so, directly over the top of whatever I use to close the cavity. Otherwise, the Woodpecker would run up to the wood and foam beneath the door frame, and this would be visible.

I like this idea. Thank you. Would you PIR to the bottom of the cavity?

It's a screeded floor, Mr Punter. It's about 70mm thick, on top of PIR board and DPM.

Hi, does anyone have any tips on how to finish the cavities left behind by an inept door installer? As you can see, the doors have been mounted on the outer leaf of the external walls. They mounted the doors splints of wood, and squirted expanding foamed in the gaps. What they didn’t do is to install a cavity closer before installing the doors. So, I’m now left in a quandary as to what to do. Some builders have suggested filling the cavity with concrete. But, this would cause cold spots, cold bridges and also lead to damp issues. Other builders have suggested removing the top row of bricks, filling the cavity with fibreglass insulation, and then reinstalling the bricks at a 90-degree angle to create a cantilevered cavity cap. So, what is my best option in this instance? Can you think of alternative solutions? I should mention that the cavities are around 60mm wide and about 600mm deep. They are also a bit of a mess, with wall ties, rubble and such like here and there.