RedSpottedSev

Thank you, My understanding is that the current system boiler cant provide enough flow. So I am looking at a new boiler and will upgrade cylinder as we need 250L vs the 170L currently. My priority is avoiding constant on/off yoyo switching of each room and making sure they stay as constant comfortable temperature as outside temperatures fluctuate. Efficiency gains would be a bonus. I was sold the manifolds with pump and mixer initially before I had done any research (and hadn't planned upstairs ufh and getting rid of all radiators) so I have some of the kit ie pump, mixer, manifold, heatmeiser control and thermostats. So, talking about the ideal set up (which I may have to do in stages and accept some wastage of things already ordered), I can swap out the fixed/manual mixing valve on the manifolds to ESBE. I haven't come across IVAR but will read about them. Each manifold will then have ESBE/grundfos upm3 auto as a pump station and a hestmeiser. Manifold 1 - main downstairs (can reduce to 2 zones) Manifold 2 - kitchen and extension (high heat loss - glass sliders etc.. reduce to 3 zones) Manifold 3 - upstairs (single zone but option to shut off guest room when not in use) So... can I have a set up where if and when properly balanced, the heatmeiser and actuators close/open rooms that might not be in use, and the rooms in use will just have thermostats for info only, with the esbe running weather comp? How do you decide where the call for heat comes from for each manifold? (Coldest room and then adjust other flow rates down?) Also do I need extra wiring pulling up alongside the 5 core (heatmeiser) for the ESBE valves? Which boiler and control unit is likely going to offer the easiest communication/connection set up to the heatmeisers and esbe? Thanks again, I appreciate I have a lot to learn yet..

Thank you

Hello, I started a project hastily and it has somewhat escalated. The information here has been amazing. We have a 5 bed detached farmhouse (half/half previous extension, half solid 50cm stone walls, half insulated cavity). Very exposed to winds and rain. We made the decision to put ufh downstairs and upstairs, but admittedly I really should have had a proper heat loss done and spent the extra on a heating engineer. Lack of knowledge and poor advice at the time... but here I am. Build up is 70mm hardcore/blinding, DPM, 150mm concrete slab in mesh, 150mm PIR, 16mm ufh pipes at 150mm centres clipped to insulation with 75mm sand/cement dry screed to SR2. Upstairs, removed old floorboards, leveled the joists, extra reinforced those that needed it, noggins etc... 5cm PIR between joists, soundproofing tape, routed floorboard for 16mm pipes at 150mm spacing. Primer, Perimeter 6mm expansion strip tape and then 1 to 3cm flow screed over the top to level, fill in boards. Upstairs is 6 valves for 5 bedroom zones. The bathrooms are on electric ufh mats. Downstairs is on 7 valves doing 4 zones. I am likely going to add another 5 valves for 3 zones for an extension in the future. All runs are below 100m, 16mm at 150 centres. My thought was this way I can reduce flows and wouldn't be left with a cold house (cant insulate internal or externals of the old part of the house). The 3 manifolds have a manual mixing valve and each with its own pump. Each manifold has a heatmeiser control that I am told connects to actuators that go on the valves. Then each room will have a thermostat that switches the actuators on and off when the rooms hit the set temperatures. I had assumed that my current boiler/cylinder would have been enough to supply the system. But my builder's plumber says that it is a very old boiler 10+ years and they would recommend an upgrade. Finally to my question and thanks for reading so far: My heatloss is around 15 to 18kw. I have ruled out ASHP due to only having access to cost/space and single phase electricity. If I am going to upgrade my heating system, I would like to have weather comp option and hot water priority. I have had lots of mixed messages and designs about this from different plumbers, with huge varying cost. So here I am asking for option on what people have done with wet underfloor only set ups. Current recommendation has been a heat only system with a low loss header that supplies ufh and the cylinder... In my head I was thinking a 4 pipe system boilder that has inbuilt domestic hotwater priority. Some kind of communication centre that means the heatmeisers can call for hotwater at a different temperature to the hot water cylinder. Do I need a low loss header for the 3 manifolds to connect to and blend from? Have I shot myself in the foot with the kit I already have (manual mixing valves and heatmeiser) to have weather comp? I am happy to invest time tweaking flow rates etc... to get a more stable heatoutput to stop the actuators constantly opening and closing. Sorry if you think this is better suited to the the ufh forum Thanks again

Hello forum, Just wanted to say a hello as well as thanks to all the advice on here. I am a competent DIYer, but what I have for love of buying tools, am very much lacking in time. I am 80% into my renovation which has escalated. What was supposed to be an extra bedroom for a new arrival, has turned into full rewire, re plumb, wet ufh, new window opening and sand blasting beams etc... Because it wasn't well planned there has been a lot of online reading and problem solving. I have got a little stuck now with some info and would be grateful to the forums help to get it over the line. Thanks again for all the help.