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markagoodger

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  1. Thank you Mr Punter. - yes, someone else mentioned to me that perhaps a 25mm air gap to the bricks could be sufficient. I was starting to think I may end up creating more problems by overdoing it. For the flooring, yes absolutely, I probably should do that at the same time but I just wanted to focus on walls then floors. I quite like the idea of just using those stable mats that some others have tried too. AndyScotland : I 'think' its a double skin wall, will check in the morning. I've never really noticed any damp coming through. I like the look of those 2-in-1 boards, had no idea they existed, thank you. Soundproofing - right ok, perhaps I should actually just ask my neighbours how bad it is for them at the moment. I suspect that the metal garage door is the main sound leak anyway.
  2. Hello, I have decided to try and build a stud wall perimeter inside my double garage to better use it as a home workshop. I have zero experience in this, just basic woodworking skills. My intended outcome of this is was; A) A clean consistent look that I can use for storage / Cabinets / French cleats etc. for my workshop B) Soundproof C) Temperature control I have read various forums, comments and watch some YouTube tutorials, but I would appreciate any advice you have for me on the following questions I have just before I begin. Does the attached design generally look ok, Is there an unnecessary layer or an obvious omission? Do I need to add a specific vapour barrier (red highlight on diagram A)? Or will the foiled PIR be sufficient. I don’t currently have an air gap. Is this a mistake? Is it better to build the stud frame on the floor then lift into position (where possible), or is it ok to build-in-place as it’s a bit fiddly? If I do build-in-place, do I just attach the DPM directly to the concrete wall first, using Christmas Clips etc? If I build on floor, I presume I can just staple to rear side of the frame before lifting. Thank you in advance for any help. Mark
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