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Edit: except the posts where I would place steel, currently slightly lower pending steel (may need to be adjusted but expecting to be flush and level)

Thanks, should be okay hopefully. All brick courses are currently level, that's why I think it might be hard to use hangers. If I used your method, what would I do at the wall end where rafters need to rest on the back wall? Assume this course would need to be lower than steel height to allow them to sit on it? Or can they also attach to hangers on the brick wall?

Thank you! Is it not just easier to get the steel drilled with bolt holes to bolt a wall plate to the top of them. Saves me messing with heights of differing steels and rafters to get it all in the right dimensions for hanger fitting. In the case of wall plate on top of steel at far end, centre and then the outer brick wall, it's as easy as can be right?

Anyone any thoughts?

So to make sure I understand, what you are saying is put the steel above garage door opening and use the posijoists to span from front to back without the need for steel. And to use an 8" posijoist? Thanks

I'm self building, so I guess I could do whatever. But the way I was advised is fully flat and then firring ontop of joists, didn't know I could put them across, nor that I could put the wall plate on a slant. Though the walls are level so I'd probably find that hard to do

Makes sense, while I look into that, how can the slope be handled later? Can furrings go across (90 degrees) as opposed to along the joists then? To change the slope?

Thought about that but too expensive and too large/tall for just the garage roof

Then my fall has to be in a direction I'd ideally not wanted to be

So the previous owners had quite a bit of work done to the top floor of a 1930s semi we now live in. All top floor ceiling rafters were removed and replaced with two steels, 1 spanning the back of the property from side to side and one spanning the front. They have then replaced all joists with new rafters/joists and created a new 1st floor ceiling/loft floor. They have also mapped out the stair opening for future stairs on a loft extension, and evidenced triple bolted beams for the said openings, these beams are bolted to a triple from steel to steel and then sat on the outside wall of the house.. All the rafters/joists cross from back of house across, sit on a load bearing wall going all the way down the property to the foundation and then follow across to the front steel. I've been told that the floor is "done" and it's ready for a dormer and gable without the need for any floor work; it's current status is basically a room, with veluxes but with a pull down ladder. Can someone help me understand what steel may be needed to continue with a dormer and hip to gable (yes I will get plans and an SE when needed) but currently just trying to understand the situation... The chimney breasts had also been removed with the use of gallow brackets, so I assume when doing a full conversion a steel will need to cross from end to end to support the chimney stacks in place of the gallow brackets, but are any others likely to be needed? A crappy sketch to try and give a picture of what I have. Red is steels, yellow are joists, singles and triplets (joined by the cross lines I've shown) and then blue is the space for hypothetical stairs

Unfortunately I drew that a bit off, the posts are not in the same place, this is an extension of the previous single width garage. I can't put an rsj between them. But I see no reason why I can't tie in another pillar to align, and then span that. Could I use a UB? Good shout guys, any thoughts on the rsj/ub to span the garage opening?

Unfortunately I drew that a bit off, the posts are not in the same place, this is an extension of the previous single width garage. I can't put an rsj between them. But I see no reason why I can't tie in another pillar to align, and then span that. Could I use a UB? Good shout guys, any thoughts on the rsj/ub to span the garage opening?

I've a 203x133UB25 beam ready to be installed across a double garage opening, it will have a wall plate fitted and hold one end of the timbers of a flat roof, may also hold the double garage door later. SE stated the above on a quick phone chat, but never came back to me with calcs or info and or confirmation and is ignoring my calls. No BCO involved 2 questions 1. Is it undersized? Ive been doing some reading and seen people are using 203 x 203 x 46 or 60 in these cases 2. What size padstone is best for either the 233 UB or the 203 from q1? Dimensions attached Thanks guys!

Building a double garage as shown in photo attached. Id like the fall to be from front to back across the 5.8m span. I'm struggling to find the right roof rafter size to tolerate that span. I plan to have OSB roof, EPDM (rubber roof) covering, interior insulation in between rafters. Is the 5.8m span doable? Could I bolt two rafters together across the 5.2m span to reduce down the 5.8m span into two separate sections attached to the double rafters by joist hangers; sitting on 1 end of the 5.8m wallplate and the other ontop of the steel wallplate, therefore allowing me to use smaller rafter sizing? Is it too much hassle, should I just go across the 5.2m span (which is less than ideal as it doesn't help with the garden side view of the garage for my plans. Advice welcome and thanks in advance!