Alduma

I took EWI to be outside the frame, and insulation, battens and cladding all outside would be chunky. Insulating between the studs but with a thin ‘sheathing’ layer to reduce the cold bridge would work indeed 👍

All things being equal, I would remove the internal finishes and insulate from the inside, possibly adding a layer of insulated plasterboard across the inside face. But given the outside is accessible (no sheathing) I thought it may cause less disruption and save us moving out. I note what you say Russell, Saveasteading and Redbeard thank you - mineral wool sounds easier to fit. Not looking to achieve current standards, just a marked improvement over what's there. External insulation was my first thought - we have the roof overhang - but hanging weight off the outside rather than sitting insulation within the frame seemed counter-intuitive. External insulation would also mean a change from timber cladding to render - not necessarily an issue but something for me to consider. Al.

View from the outside (cut a hole in the cladding). You're seeing the rear of the internal lining board, studs, some sort of reinforced building paper, and the cladding.

Hello all - first poster here, grateful for your collective expertise. I have a 1970s timber frame and timber-clad bungalow, and I’d like to add insulation to the walls (currently none). The wall construction is currently: Internal plasterboard lining (no vapour barrier but it does have some sort of reflective finish on the back). 100mm timber studs with nothing between. 20mm boarded timber cladding directly on timber frame (no sheathing). I’m looking at removing the outer cladding in sections and installing Kingspan between the studs. I’ll add battens to provide airflow before refitting the cladding. My questions are: Should we fit sheathing and breather paper to the outside of the kit before the battens? Should we try to address the lack of vapour barrier? Al