Mscott

Hi thanks for the detailed reply. yes it’s 100% a cavity wall which has had cavity wall insulation added (removed a few walls due to extension and also changed the windows an can clearly see it’s insulated. okay I will have a read over that post now. So a parge coat Is needed in every option?

I’ve just bought a 1903 detached house that needs some restoration, and I’ve got a few questions for those with more experience—so apologies in advance for the long post! The house has cavity walls that have had blown-in insulation at some point the white fluffy stuff. I’ve stripped back all the old plaster on the inside of the exterior walls due to a previous damp issue around the chimney from old, poor repairs. I’ve now sorted these problems, but some brickwork is still drying out from years of moisture exposure. I’m looking for the best way to re-skim these walls and possibly improve insulation while I’m at it. I understand how damp works in relation to condensation, but I want to make sure I take the right approach to avoid future issues. Options I’m Considering: Option 1 – No Additional Insulation: • 2x1 battens for a service void • Plasterboard and skim Option 2 – Light Insulation Upgrade: • 2x1 battens on the wall • Space blanket insulation • Additional battens on top for a service void (as recommended by YBS SuperQuilt) • Plasterboard and skim Option 3 – More Insulation: • 3x2 stud wall set slightly off the external wall • Flexi-batt insulation between studs • Plasterboard and skim My main concern is whether any of these options could create condensation issues on the internal brickwork. I’d really appreciate any advice or alternative suggestions from those who’ve tackled similar projects. Thanks for reading, and I appreciate any insights!

I don’t believe we have any issues with our cavity insulation the house isn’t cold at the moment even though we are on storage heaters (waiting for our air source to be finished)

We already have cavity wall insulation and don’t have any issues with the external pebble dash we have some older features that we wouldn’t want to have covered over.

we have absolutely no issues with this on new build timber frame and probably the most efficient houses there are. 150mm timber frame kit. 100mm sound bat in the frame and then super foil on the inside. 50mm full coverage externally with pir boards, 50mm cavity then block I’m not experienced in these older houses so open to suggestions.

We use the non breathable stuff on all new timber frame houses and have no issues. What’s the best method people are doing not to cause issue. At this rate I think I’m just going to batten the wall to give a service void and then just plasterboard, this shouldn’t cause the inner brickwork to condensate and cause damp issues in the future

ive been reading up and think an option would be this stuff? https://www.multifoilsdirect.co.uk/product/ybs-breatherquilt/ so vertical batten the wall then the breather quilt then horizontal batten and board and skim?

I get exactly what you’re saying that’s why Im unsure of the best route to take? The cavity insulation seems fine. If I went space blanket I wouldn’t just use the plaster board boxes to not puncture it. The loft will have 400mm of insulation and the floor joist will have 200mm of insulation in. Whatever I do with the walls upstairs il repeat downstairs to match.

I’ve not and didn’t know they did this. I may speak with ybs see if this is something they can do.

I’m not sure of the make it’s a white more fully type over beads. make up from outside in pebble dash render, 100mm brick, 40-45mm cavity fully filled, 100mm brick. damp was just on 2 chimney breast walls as the lead had been done awfully and no saddle on the ridge, they just put concrete in the chimney pot so was leaking down the chimney beast from the lead then the stack was sealed so couldn’t breathe causing condensation to build up inside. They are all sorted now but the bricks are still drying out.

I’ve not seen or used this. Have you got any experience of using it what’s the benefits?

This looks a good website il have to fire up the laptop as it’s abit of a pain to use on a phone.

Hi everyone, I’m Matt, a carpenter by trade with experience in timber frame builds and general carpentry. I’ve just bought a 1903 detached house that needs some restoration, and I’ve got a few questions for those with more experience—so apologies in advance for the long post! The house has cavity walls that have had blown-in insulation at some point. I’ve stripped back all the old plaster on the inside of the exterior walls due to previous damp issues around the chimneys from old, poor repairs. I’ve now sorted these problems, but some brickwork is still drying out from years of moisture exposure. I’m looking for the best way to re-skim these walls and possibly improve insulation while I’m at it. I understand how damp works in relation to condensation, but I want to make sure I take the right approach to avoid future issues. Options I’m Considering: Option 1 – No Additional Insulation: • 2x1 battens for a service void • Plasterboard and skim Option 2 – Light Insulation Upgrade: • 2x1 battens on the wall • Space blanket insulation • Additional battens on top for a service void (as recommended by YBS SuperQuilt) • Plasterboard and skim Option 3 – More Insulation: • 3x2 stud wall set slightly off the external wall • Flexi-batt insulation between studs • Plasterboard and skim My main concern is whether any of these options could create condensation issues on the internal brickwork. I’d really appreciate any advice or alternative suggestions from those who’ve tackled similar projects. Thanks for reading, and I appreciate any insights!