EinTopaz

Update on this one, we said we'd take the roof off and do everything we can to improve the insulation off. Well we did half of the extension, it took ages due to just how many problems I found. There were literally parts with zero insulation. Or other parts where the gaps between the kingspan were so large you could get your hand through em! So really positive news that we found so many issues. Work included, all tiles off, felt and battens off too..... then foaming and taping every joint, then adding another 50mm kingspan ontop (ensuring we left a 25mm air gap between felt and board)... then foaming all the joints on that too... It took a full day, but really pleased to say the difference is HUUUUUUUUGE. Room is massively retaining heat compared to previous. And we've not done the more problematic half of the roof yet (based on the thermal images) so excited to see what we find on that side. Likely cracking on with that half on june 9th. So will update then too... But in the mean time, here's the before and afters. Very pleased we did this, despite the cost!

Out of interest, how thick should the packers be beneath the Units? and how much should the units overlap the frame gaskets by?

that's a good shout thanks. Is it generally bad practice to do any other sealing round the edges of the unit? Like expanding foam between the frame and the unit on the verticals and at the top? And also, someone mentioned to me about using a warm edge spacer bar to also help with thermal performance, but Im not sure what they are, or even if they can be retrofitted in my case?

Update on this one - Glazier returned, accepted there's a problem on point 1 and point 5 New piece of glass required for point 5, and will use bigger packers on the other. The 'play' in the beading apparently is because the units are 38.8mm and the beads allow for 40mm. Not sure if we can fix that? What do you think @craig ?

Thanks for the in-depth reply Craig, appreciate that. 1. I hope not, I seem to recall the fitters on the day saying "there's a 20mm gap at the top" on one of the windows" which to my untrained ear sounded alot. I assumed they should overlap with the gaskets by 8-10mm? i'm going to enlist someone independent and experienced with triple glazing to cast their eye over this. 2. Apologies, I should've laid this out in the thread. Original double glaze was 28mm. This acoustic triple is 38.8mm (6.8/12/4/12/4) The acoustic lami is on the outer and the two other pieces are planitherm one. Frames are deckeuninck 2500 type. We used a lower profile deceuninck bead to accomodate the thicker units. As recommended by deceuninck. 3. Not sure if gasket is meeting the frame, i'll need someone to confirm that. I think it is glazing foam as i found some of it on my drive that was identical in colour. Maybe it's been squished down loads. 4. same, not sure if gasket is meeting. But most of the beads are nice and tight, it's only a handful that have this much play in them, so confused at the inconsistency. Unless the glass hasn't gone in straight. I.e meets the top gasket but not the bottom one, etc. 5. Yeah so on this, I suspected as much, however I have noticed that shaped piece of glass has been either fitted off centre, or wonky. The shape is a triangle, but i can see the tip of the tringle of the unit is about 4-5mm offset to the left. So looks like maybe this piece is too small. I'll need someone to confirm this too.

Yeah, sorry I should've said in the thread at the top, these triple are 38.8mm thickness. Lower profile beads were used to accomodate the thicker units..... that's why im really shocked im not seeing an improvement here, original double glazed units were 28mm. 6.8/12/4/12/4 Spec sheet attached.

Thanks, I should've mentioned at the top of the thread. These are 38.8mm units. The older double glazed were 28mm. They used lower profile triple glazed beading to accomodate. make up of the triple glaze unit is 6.8mm lami at the front, 12mm cavity, 4mm planitherm one, 12mm cavity, 4mm planitherm one

Hi all, We've recently had all the glass upgraded in a rear extension from standard double glazed (1.3 U value) to high thermal performant triple glazed acoustic (0.675 U value) in a hope to improve the room's ability to retain heat. It's been in a good few days now and frustratingly the room seems to be retaining heat worse than before!... i.e - It's dropping by more degrees over night than it did with the standard double glaze in previous. Due to the huge difference in U value I started to think perhaps this could be down to a poor install? I'm not technical but took a closer look and found some things I wonder whether anyone on here would be able to confirm are a problem or not? list with images below. The units appear to sit very low in the frames, much lower than the units previous did. I'm wondering if they're not sat on packers? If they're sat so low could there be a massive gap at the top allowing coldness?... and could this damage the units and frames too? Some of the black unit framing is very visible on some of the windows. If the unit is either fitted off-centre or if they've measured it wrong and made a unit too small, could this cause an issue? The thermal cam did pick this up. On one of the windows I can see they've put vertical packers between the glass and exterior frame Again, could this be an issue letting draughts in? never seen this before, or is it fine to do this? Lastly, The beading has some play in it in certain parts of some of the windows. previous double glaze had a thicker bead and was absolutely rock-solid, should there be this much play? WhatsApp Video 2025-05-18 at 22.03.37_988560b0.mp4 Is there anything in the above that looks like a no-no to anyone in here with an experienced eye? Not sure what I need to say to the fitter, if anything at all? thanks Ged

Currently open to cold side. From bottom to top ours goes Pasterboard 50mm kingspan 100mm kingspan (between rafters) 70mm airgap membrane battens tiles

All fair point and true enough. I won't be doing the roofing myself. But i'll be up there with the team, insulating the gaps as I find them. As we're totally de-roofing it sort of felt silly not to add more kingspan while im there. I know it wont be night and day difference. But for £500 and a couple days of my time. Why not eh. RE: wall gaps. Absolutely, take a look at this video. We've a vented tile on the roof for an extractor fan in the bathroom that I wanted to inspect. Looking under there confirmed that I need to have all the tiles took off and insulate all these roof properly tbh. it's a complete mess. Incidentally, after i've got this sorted, im going to name and shame the company and directors. As they've since refused to rectify. vented_tile_beneath.mp4

Yes going to be completely stripped tiles off, battens and membrane all off. Do you think 20mm airgap between kingspan and membrane will suffice? 50mm insulation is no more expensive than 40mm weirdly. And probably easier to sell on if I over order!

Yeah ok, if I add 40mm more kingspan that'd leave me with 30mm clearance to top of rafters. I read the 50mm clearance required is because of sagging of the membrane etc. But ours looks pretty tight to be honest.

thanks, which figure on that link describes my setup the best? We've 50mm beneath rafters, 100mm inbetween rafters, then membrane, then battens, then tiles I'm looking to up the bit between rafters to probably 160mm edit: our soffits are vented. Forgot to mention.

Changing topic ever so slightly as I need an answer on this for the roof. As I'm about to order all the extra Kingspan for it (i'll be removing all the tiles and taping/sealing all the gaps between insulation of what's there already AND adding more whilst im there. My question is how much of an airgap do i need to retain between the top of the Kingspan that's between the rafters AND the underside of the vapor proof membrane? In the photos below i've shown how my tiles are arranged, they're sat ontop of 25mm counter battens so a good 25-40mm or so higher than the membrane. The rafters are 170mm tall, there's 100mm Kingspan between them. Given that there is an airgap between the membrane and tiles. How much of an airgap do i need to leave between top of kingspan and underside of membrane? 1" or 2"? Or can I entirely fill the void between rafters with no airgap at all?

Looks great, i think i'll need a proffesional to do this for me by the looks of it though. Do you know of anyone in the north west of England?