Boyblue

So, specifications given on the company websites are for a fixed set of variables. Once one variable changes (like requesting a 50mm screed), everithing else does? Once a specific order is made and 50mm screed is requested, the appropriate configeration will be detailed?

Some B&B manufacturers specify 65mm and others 50mm. The beam sizes are similar if not identical, so what is the unseen, that causes the difference in specified toppings. Might it be the number or placement of reinforcement wires, the strength of the concrete, the shape of the beams?

Thank you so much, I see all the videos of neat installations and might have been dejected. I realize they've been doing this for years. BTW which beam did you use, I feel like that kinda I shaped one may be the more problamatic of the two basic shapes.

The answer did come to me though. The genius of what I call the UK system, is the flexibility of being able to use the narrow side to basically double the strength of a section of floor. You also have the wide beam which aids in flexibility. And besides unless you'd be applying a cementitious plaster, you could be asking for trouble skimming all those different surfaces, because monolithic above doesn't mean monolithic below.

Electrical would go as it does now in the screed. Plumbing of course would go below, so a second ceiling would be needed in rooms with drain pipes. It may be compettive with first floor poured concrete slabs, but I catch your drift.

Yes, the light Cast does leave a flush ceiling, but it's a 100mm block and requires a 50mm pour just to bring it flush with the beams.

The hollow flush blocks seem to tick a lot of boxes. It has the density and strength, eliminates the need for slip bricks, and it leaves you with a flush ceiling. So what am I missing here? The only disadvantage I see is that the profile looks like it will take significantly more screed, but the offset of a flush ceiling seems like a fair tradeoff presuming you're able to apply plaster .

Room arrangement is the issue I've just landed on. The house plans here have only 215mm walls coming up from the foundation, which covers in most single story cases, only exterior walls and bathroom walls. So, there's not the labyrinth of rooms that work so well for you guys. It's either use long spans and install with a crane or add supports and make the job manageable by hand. I beleive the former would be playing at the extreme end of the of the span charts and the latter, would be in the comfort range.

Yea shipping assembled stuff like that is a nonstarter especially when it's already pricy in its own market. Glulam has been around or years and the amazing things I see them do with it is impressive, but you’re never going to see that stuff here in everyday construction. Shucks, Insulation is available but because it’s so bulky, it’s priced beyond standard construction.

LOL, I spend about 10% of my time in the sun, havenbeen on the beach in 40 years even though I drive by it every day. If you lived here you'd grow weary of it as well. I always tell folks, having sunshine all the time is a blessing, but so is having our seasons. O course you're welcome if I ever turn this discovery into something.

70 million Brittons can't be wrong, (not to mention India and several African Countries) The more I research the more I like it. Sort o like the metric system, it just makes sense. Our good buddies to the north can be wrong every now and then 🙂 In terms of the extras, I get your point. I'd have to over order everything because a short on an item like that bracket could hold production up for days, possibly weeks.

You precher, me chior 🙂 totally agree

Will do & I for sure can espouse some crazy ideas so I get where you're coming from.

Just checked with a buddy that builds a lot of homes and he said 215mm blocks are supported from the foundation but not 100mm. There's no building, just absorbing all of this info before I proceed in a particular direction. The blocks do carry a lot of weight, especially with scratch, brown and finish coats like we do, on both sides, however B&B has options that can handle cars so I can't imagine it's impossible, but probably not cost effective.

My qusetions are all conceptual, you're so right but apparently Bahamians have a love affair with concrete blocks, even low cost homes spec blocks. Funny thing is nicer homes do use wood and metal studs.

Did you have to run drain pipes in any of your main living spaces? How did you enclose the pipes? How much ceiling height was utilized? Were you still able to get the ceiling height you desired and did it involve adding extra courses?

I know that walls can be ran parrellel with double beams handling the load but what about if the wall is running parpendicular to the floor beams? Need there be any special provision for standard, 100mm concrete blocks?

When it's 85°F outside, the crawl space might be 65-70°F. Winter temperatures in crawl spaces are generally warmer than the outside air due to ground insulation. For us this I guess it's a fringe benefit.

This is for the Bahamas, we have no insullation requirements.

The option is listed so I thought I'd ask, although the part about direct to slab is not indicated. I admit it is a bad idea because grouting all of those members is what makes the floor a monolith. Nowhere in particular, but I was thinking ground floor on a new build. I don't know, I have to admit it was a wast of gray matter or is it grey 🙂

Have you ever applied a 25mm screed on top of beam and block? I'm talking directly to the slab. I notice that some systems allow it with bonder applied to substrate. Were the results satisfactory? Did you add fiber?

Glad you asked. It hasn't been used primarily because our source of construction technology is the US, and beam & block is not used there because they've moved more to engineered stuff. With the additional cost of importation, that stuff is simply too expensive . Where we tend to differ are in cases where a superior alternative is more cost effective. It this case, slab on grade is used 100% of the time for our ground floors. The issue now is that fill is becoming scarce in the capital. That combined with the fact that concrete and steel prices are through the roof, could mean that beam & block may be a viable alternative. No fill, less concrete, less steel, speedy installation and the alternative to do a floating floor at ground level are all attractive choices. Fill will be barged from nearby islands so slab on grade will no doubt continue to be most popular but beam and block could gain a foothold. Second story, we use wood beams, suspended concrete, or web joists. Beam and block would be a welcome alternative there as well.

100mm solid blocks are not available here so I've been looking at importing the beams and using hollow (three hole) blocks. One of the first companies I looked at had the 3.6n category. Now that I'm trying to choose from the available options, I notice there aren't many. I'm concerned about being in the minority here. Are hollow blocks less than ideal, inefficient or ineffective?

That must have been some span, did you use standard beams or 215 beams?