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MattD1

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  1. Thanks Dave. I’ll get the measurements today. Again, appreciate the help 👍
  2. Thanks bud. I’ve attached a couple more pictures but there’s no lights and it’s a bit of a mess in there at the minute so hard to get anything decent. The picture of the outside, you can see the black marks on the wall for the new proposed opening. Inside has these pillars. I was thinking could I prop up the timber lintel as you suggested and build a new pillar at the end of the new opening ?so it will be the same as it is now just wider apart, along with a longer timber lintel ? Thanks again guys 👍
  3. Hiya Dave. Yes I’m a sparky by trade and the wiring is as it was when we moved in. There’s currently no power to the garage 👍 Will upload a picture now. Thanks
  4. Hi all. I have a quick question. I’m opening up my single garage door to fit a set of patio doors. It’s a single skin wall but I’m a bit worried about these pillars. There’s 1 either side of the door at present but I need to cut one out to open the door up. Looks like it’s breeze block laid flat. Can anyone tell me if it’s safe to do so from the picture before I take the stihl saw to it 😂 The roof is a corrugated roof and there’s a timber ring beam running round the wall that the roof fixes to. I’m opening it up approx 500mm, just a bit more than the pillar. Thanks very much
  5. Morning guys. I have a small garage that has a sand and cement render which has been painted over. The render itself is absolutely solid. The paint is flaking in a few places but structurally it’s sound. I had my house rendered and have some HP12 and silicone thin top coat left over. My question is could I apply a primer to the existing walls and use the left over base and top coat with some 6mm beads ? Seems a waste of time knocking the old render off when it’s solid. Thanks very much
  6. Hiya bud. I was told 80mm which accounts for a binder and top course. I’ve got 90mm in most places but at least 80mm everywhere. Constant fall to the aco at the garage 👍
  7. Thanks Nick I’ll definitely make sure. That’s the one thing I’m worried about now is getting somebody in to do the job properly. Will the sub base getting wet and dry constantly have any negative affect ? We get quite a lot of rain up here that’s all and with the finished layer not getting done for a couple of months I want to make sure I don’t have any issues when it comes to the tarmac stage. Thanks again
  8. Cheers Nick. I thought that might be the case as everything seemed fine when it was dry 😂 I’ve installed an aco drain but obviously as the drive isn’t at the finished level yet the water is just sitting there. We are just having a tarmac drain with a border. I’ve levelled it all off to around 80-90mm depth and a slope down the drive to the aco which runs across the front of the garage 👍
  9. Morning all. I’m just after a bit of reassurance really. I’ve dug out and put down a type 1 sub base for a new drive. 250mm dug out and a membrane put down before refilling and compacting the type 1 in layers. We have had some heavy rain the last couple of days even though it feels solid under foot, the top has gone a bit mushy. I’ve put a tarpaulin over it for now to stop us getting mud everywhere but wanted to check this wasn’t an issue. It’s probably going to be left for a couple of months before been finished that’s all. I’ve attached a couple of pics of the sub base before the rain came. Cheers
  10. Not a bad shout that Conor ill give it a go in the morning 👍
  11. Thanks for that bassanclan. Wasn’t sure if there was a generic size as such for the type of slate but guessing not. Might have to wait for the scaffold to get put up first then. 👍
  12. Evening all. We are having our house rendered shortly and whilst the scaffold is up I’d like to replace some damaged / missing tiles. Was hoping to get a head start and order them so I’ve got them ready to go once the scaffold is up. Would anybody be able to identify them from this picture ? I understand it’s not the best. Thanks very much Matt
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