Ay8452

It's above an opening into the house from the porch.

Hi folks, I am having an extension built at the moment. It's double store side extension with a new front porch.l single storey. The front porch has a gable shape roof. My drawings have specified a cavity tray above the opening from the porch into the double storey extension. It's a standard build with a 100mm inner skin block and then 100mm cavity with 90mm PIR board then 100mm outer skin block and then a silicone render finish. My builder / bricklayer forgot to put the cavity tray in when building up the inner skin but then reassured me when doing the outer skin he would use a preformed cavity tray. I've just checked and for the outer skin he has simply used DPM membrane on the outer skin which then going into the PIR board and then up against the inner skin. It's not a preformed tray. Is this a problem? I guess a preformed tray is less likely to move around but having just the DPM is going to move around especially water was going to fall on it. Please see diagram for reference. He has reassure me he's always done it this way but just seems like he's forgotten to do it right. P.s. everywhere else the cavity tray has been done the "correct" way with the DPM starting in the inner skin. Maybe I'm overthinking it?

Hi guys, Can anyone advise if the quality of welding here is acceptable? The blue section was neatly done off site and supplied like this. The Green section was done on site but it really doesn't look right to me. Building inspector coming tomorrow. This is a structural element in a two story extension for a vertical steel column. Thanks guys

Thanks all for your replies. I agree with many, three phase just seems to complicate the solar setup + the hosue, unnecessarily. Currently do not have any crazy electrical loads. However since it's a "forever" home, I am trying to future proof it. ASHP in the future + 3 phase EV charger etc. Installer has suggested putting all 14 panels on one string all with optimisers as the 4 panels that will get heavy shading in the late afternoon won't have enough start up voltage for the inverter so essentially become useless. The 4 panels are on a single storey roof facing SE and the double storey roof is immediately above it so when the sun is in SW/W it will be very shaded on the single storey area. If this isn't a good idea, please let me know, your opinions are welcome.

Thank you for your reply. If ALL the panels were on the same string fitted with optimisers for each panel then it "should" negate the issue with the start up voltage right? This is what my installer is suggesting

Problem is I am renovating/haven't moved in yet. And I'm currently renting a tiny house which doesn't reflect useable so have to estimate for now

Hey folks Looking for some advice on proposals I've received for my solar setup particularly inverter sizing. Proposal: 14 X Aiko Neostar 3S 475W N-Type, Mono Glass All Black, Gen 3 Panels (good panels?) - 4 of the panels are on a separate roof to the other 10 and are heavily shaded in the late afternoon/evening. Sigenergy battery - thinking either 8kWh to 10kWh for now. Not sure if going bigger makes financial sense based on my estimated usage really? We have 3-phase supply and plan to have it well balanced (new electrics going in as part of renovation). Estimated use is 4-5,000 units (not moved in yet, we are still renovating) for a family of 2 adults and three young kids, not including future EV charging for a car doing 10k miles a year, plan to charge overnight via the Grid. For 3 phase Sig energy inverter sizing; I've had conflicting advice with some installers recommending a 6kw, 8 kw, 10 kw, and even a 15 kw. Based on my basic research 8 kw seems sensible? Questions: What inverter size would you recommend for this kind of setup considering it's 3 phase? Would 8kW be sufficient, or is it worth stretching to 10kW? For the 4 panels that are shaded, some have recommended optimisers whilst others have said not to as they go "wrong" over time - thoughts? Roof is SE facing pitched at 36 degrees. Appreciate your insights!

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Thank you both, yes steel already installed. Should I try and get some galvanising paint on it, I can partially get my hand in and around one of the columns however the other one I have no access to...? And yes plan is to insulate/box in.

Hi Folks, Just trying to get my head round drawings from my architect for a single storey rear extension 3.5m with a warm flat roof (GRP) and parapet wall detail all around. He has specified furring strips from the old house out to the rear (purple arrow) with 2 parapet wall rainwater outlets (marked in blue). Surely the area marked red will collect rainwater, what's encouraging it to move/drain out the water outlets? Ignore roof lantern that is not going to be built we've opted against it. Thanks

Morning folks, I have a couple of steel beams that I have installed as part of a double storey extension. Some of these the engineer has asked to be galvanised which we have done. A few other's he hasn't or at least his drawings were not clear. These are sitting in the inner skin on the warm side of the cavity wall insulation - see image attached. Cavity insulation is foil faced PIR board tongue/groove but also taped over all joints. Outer skin is going to have a silicone render. I only had red oxide protection on these steels and there seems to be mixed review on if I need to protect these steels with galvanisation. I have messaged the engineer and am awaiting a response, I am sure it will be best practice is to galvanise but feel its overkill here... Can anyone share some guidance on this? Steels are already in and walls built to ground floor ceiling level.

Hi guys, My engineer has specified wall ties for a steel column (C4.1) in his drawings attached. He has specified wall ties from this column to the inner skin (which we've done) and from this column to the outer skin also (which we haven't done by mistake). So there are no ties from the external skin block work to the steel in this section only. There are wall ties in the rest of the cavity wall (inner/outer leaf) as specified. C4.1 is about 300mm wide and 100mm deep. We haven't built the next storey up (highlighted green) and will make sure correct ties are used when we do. Is this a major structural issue? Have messaged my engineer and am awaiting a response. Anyone with more experience care to share their thoughts to hopefully ease my nerves. Glazing not currently fitted - so can access the cavity from the side. Could I get some sort of straps to ties to fix from the side? Thanks! P.s posted this in another section but thought this section might be more relevant.

Hi guys, My engineer has specified wall ties for a steel column (C4.1) in his drawings attached. He has specified wall ties from this column to the inner skin (which we've done) and from this column to the outer skin also (which we haven't done by mistake). So there are no ties from the external skin block work to the steel in this section only. There are wall ties in the rest of the cavity wall (inner/outer leaf) as specified. We haven't built the next storey up (highlighted green) and will make sure correct ties are used when we do. Is this a major structural issue? Have messaged my engineer and am awaiting a response. Anyone with more experience care to share their thoughts to hopefully ease my nerves. Thanks!

Did you line the sides or top with something like compacfoam or is that overkill? Little worried about weatherproofing and movement here also - prefer to fix to something more solid.

I was planning on doing this also. This would essentially negate the need for compacfoam under the threshold right? Not sure if I am overkilling it with compacfoam under the threshold as well as what you've done.