Ay8452

Thank you for your reply. If ALL the panels were on the same string fitted with optimisers for each panel then it "should" negate the issue with the start up voltage right? This is what my installer is suggesting

Problem is I am renovating/haven't moved in yet. And I'm currently renting a tiny house which doesn't reflect useable so have to estimate for now

Hey folks Looking for some advice on proposals I've received for my solar setup particularly inverter sizing. Proposal: 14 X Aiko Neostar 3S 475W N-Type, Mono Glass All Black, Gen 3 Panels (good panels?) - 4 of the panels are on a separate roof to the other 10 and are heavily shaded in the late afternoon/evening. Sigenergy battery - thinking either 8kWh to 10kWh for now. Not sure if going bigger makes financial sense based on my estimated usage really? We have 3-phase supply and plan to have it well balanced (new electrics going in as part of renovation). Estimated use is 4-5,000 units (not moved in yet, we are still renovating) for a family of 2 adults and three young kids, not including future EV charging for a car doing 10k miles a year, plan to charge overnight via the Grid. For 3 phase Sig energy inverter sizing; I've had conflicting advice with some installers recommending a 6kw, 8 kw, 10 kw, and even a 15 kw. Based on my basic research 8 kw seems sensible? Questions: What inverter size would you recommend for this kind of setup considering it's 3 phase? Would 8kW be sufficient, or is it worth stretching to 10kW? For the 4 panels that are shaded, some have recommended optimisers whilst others have said not to as they go "wrong" over time - thoughts? Roof is SE facing pitched at 36 degrees. Appreciate your insights!

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Thank you both, yes steel already installed. Should I try and get some galvanising paint on it, I can partially get my hand in and around one of the columns however the other one I have no access to...? And yes plan is to insulate/box in.

Hi Folks, Just trying to get my head round drawings from my architect for a single storey rear extension 3.5m with a warm flat roof (GRP) and parapet wall detail all around. He has specified furring strips from the old house out to the rear (purple arrow) with 2 parapet wall rainwater outlets (marked in blue). Surely the area marked red will collect rainwater, what's encouraging it to move/drain out the water outlets? Ignore roof lantern that is not going to be built we've opted against it. Thanks

Morning folks, I have a couple of steel beams that I have installed as part of a double storey extension. Some of these the engineer has asked to be galvanised which we have done. A few other's he hasn't or at least his drawings were not clear. These are sitting in the inner skin on the warm side of the cavity wall insulation - see image attached. Cavity insulation is foil faced PIR board tongue/groove but also taped over all joints. Outer skin is going to have a silicone render. I only had red oxide protection on these steels and there seems to be mixed review on if I need to protect these steels with galvanisation. I have messaged the engineer and am awaiting a response, I am sure it will be best practice is to galvanise but feel its overkill here... Can anyone share some guidance on this? Steels are already in and walls built to ground floor ceiling level.

Hi guys, My engineer has specified wall ties for a steel column (C4.1) in his drawings attached. He has specified wall ties from this column to the inner skin (which we've done) and from this column to the outer skin also (which we haven't done by mistake). So there are no ties from the external skin block work to the steel in this section only. There are wall ties in the rest of the cavity wall (inner/outer leaf) as specified. C4.1 is about 300mm wide and 100mm deep. We haven't built the next storey up (highlighted green) and will make sure correct ties are used when we do. Is this a major structural issue? Have messaged my engineer and am awaiting a response. Anyone with more experience care to share their thoughts to hopefully ease my nerves. Glazing not currently fitted - so can access the cavity from the side. Could I get some sort of straps to ties to fix from the side? Thanks! P.s posted this in another section but thought this section might be more relevant.

Hi guys, My engineer has specified wall ties for a steel column (C4.1) in his drawings attached. He has specified wall ties from this column to the inner skin (which we've done) and from this column to the outer skin also (which we haven't done by mistake). So there are no ties from the external skin block work to the steel in this section only. There are wall ties in the rest of the cavity wall (inner/outer leaf) as specified. We haven't built the next storey up (highlighted green) and will make sure correct ties are used when we do. Is this a major structural issue? Have messaged my engineer and am awaiting a response. Anyone with more experience care to share their thoughts to hopefully ease my nerves. Thanks!

Did you line the sides or top with something like compacfoam or is that overkill? Little worried about weatherproofing and movement here also - prefer to fix to something more solid.

I was planning on doing this also. This would essentially negate the need for compacfoam under the threshold right? Not sure if I am overkilling it with compacfoam under the threshold as well as what you've done.

Hi folks, I am having three sets of 4 meter sliding doors fitted. Trying to do what I can to reduce thermal bridging without breaking the bank. All the doors have steelwork above to attach to and some have masonry at the sides and some have steel at the sides. The threshold thickness is 110mm and my cavity wall spec is silicone render outside, 100mm block outer, 100mm cavity, 100mm block inner. Anyone have any pragmatic suggestions to reduce thermal bridging? My current plan is - Line the openings with compacfoam and then Fit the sliding doors through the 20mm compacfoam at the sides and at the top and where possible at the bottom threshold (already built this up with masonry for some doors so may not be able to), and then weatherseal this externally/clad with alum to match the door frame. - OR line the openings (sides and top, not bottom) with timber 25mm timber to act as a thermal break and fit the sliding doors through this. Does this sound sensible or is this overkill? I am having an insulated external render system (EPS) over where the steels will be a cold bridge. Just thinking if I am overdoing it. Thanks

Hi folks, I have a steel 200 x 200 corner post as part of a corner set of sliding doors. Had a read of very useful previous threads Looking to insulate this and was going to do the following 1 - on the external two sides place PIR board (any specific type I should use as it may be exposed to the elements?) or EPS board 2 - Internal two sides place vertical strips of aerogyl as space is a premium here (the corner post is inline with the the inner leaf for one wall and then cavity centre for the other wall, therefore I have more space externally hence use of PIR board/EPS in that location) 3 - wrap the post in a VCL (any recommendation on a brand/type?) 4 - clad the steel post with timber 5 - Fit sliding doors/Alum cladding around post Does this sound about right? Should I just stick to one type of insulation and sue aerogel? See pic below of my structural drawings Then added my insulation below (orange being EPS/PIR) and green being aerogyl.

Hi guys, My engineer is on holiday and would be grateful if someone with more experience can help me here. For the bottom plate on this beam, where it says 25mm max overhang, does that mean, A - the blockwork (outer skin 100mm) can overhang the bottom plate by max 25mm so only 75mm is supported by the actual bottom plate B - OR does it mean the bottom plate can extend MAX 25mm past the outer skin blockwork? For reference, wall spec is 100mm blockwork inner leaf, 100mm cavity, 100mm blockwork outer leaf. Thanks!

Hi everyone, I am scratching my head on how best to insulate this steel. I have posted before and think I've tweaked the spec that will work better. It is already installed and is a big cold bridge. The timbers haven't been installed yet, I am thinking of using aerogyl but it is very pricey. Does this sort of spec seem ok? Can I fit the joists through the aerogyl into the timber packing? Spoke to aerogyl supplier and they pretty much advised trying to wrap the steel in aerogyl at every surface where possible. Is there some sort of external insulation panel I can use/render over instead externally? Thanks