Kevste123

Thanks for all your help. Should I aim for a 1 in 40 fall on the horizontal section or 1 in 80?

I should've mentioned, that pipe on the outside wall is the existing SVP, so I don't think I will need a separate AAV? I had no idea they could be used internally, I thought they had to be used underground only. Something about them not being compliant with BS whatever. Although there would be no issue with UV damage, so if they can be used internally that would be ideal.

I think something like this could work and still be functional, make it look like a fancy shelf for plants.

I agree none of the options are great. BCO did come around and said he would approve if rodding access was provided . Unfortunately I can't go outside the building as I don't own the boundary, it is my neighbour's garden. The other option I was looking at was macerator but that was a last resort.

Hi Planning to install an en-suite bathroom. Due to joists running in wrong direction I am looking to drop the wc waste directly down to the floor below on a 90 degree pan connector and then horizontally with a 1:40(?) fall about 3.5m to stack. This would have to go through the boiler cupboard and out the external wall. Above the boiler cupboard is a concrete lintel where in an ideal world I would come out but I don't want to touch this so will need to get the pipework under it, into single skin block. On the image which option would be preferrable: 1. Drop down about 0.5 metres into room below, 90 degree turn from vertical to horizontal, 2x 45s to come out the wall above boiler flue then a 90 into stack (main image) 2. Drop down to ceiling level, 90 degree turn from vertical to horizontal, little jiggle to get under lintel and then connect directly into back of stack through wall (red line) 3. Drop down about 0.5 metres into room below, 90 degree turn from vertical to horizontal and connect directly into back of stack through wall (blue line) I'm aware that options 1 & 3 would need a fair bit of boxing in and I'll need to create a "feature" to keep the missus happy. Option 2 avoids this but I'm not sure about the two 90s to get around the lintel. Cheers

I probably should've mentioned the other gable wall not shown in the photo is brick and consists of some corbelled brickwork to support the chimney stack. The chimney breasts (gathered) were removed from 1st and ground floor, this was done by a previous owner. SE said if I removed chimney stack the corbelling could go also, otherwise another steel would need to go in at eaves level. Not sure if this contributes in any way for the recommendation for the ridge beam though. Photos attached, sorry not the best

Forgot to mention I am doing a velux only, no dormers.

Hi everyone, I have a 1930s traditional cut rafter roof 7.7m gable to gable and about the same distance between wall plates. 3 sets of purlins cut on mid-span truss with 9x3 tie beam at floor level. Rafter angle 37 degrees. Truss looks to have been strengthened at some point in the past with timbers added to attempt a w type. Picture attached. So it's kind of a king post setup without the vertical post. No internal load bearing walls at 1st floor. Existing rafters and joists are 3x2s. I had SE out for site visit who suggested 2x new steels for new floor, keep the lowest purlin to build up to but get rid of the two others and the mid-span truss. Ashlar wall, new deeper rafters alongside existing and new steel ridge beam. Can anyone please explain why the ridge beam is necessary? I suggested new timber affixed to underside of existing rafters and collar ties but SE said the new timber wouldn't double the rafter strength. I'm trying to understand where the extra load will be. I would ask SE but I have already asked a load of questions and probably got my money's worth, I don't want to take the p..!! so hoping someone here can help 🙂 many thanks