AidanGee93

Should read (while boiler switched off*) which then indicates im loosing pressure via the flow and return pipes to the rads or rads itself...and boiler not the issue

Cheers mate, I'll try this out so I know what's the issue. Seen someone say if my pressure drops, I can isolate the flow and return valves under the boiler (while boiler on) and if the pressure stays the same as what it was when isolated, then the boiler isn't the issue?

Here's better pic with 6 pipes... Cicrles the pipes outside, green is central heating drain valve. So the red must be the Trv discharge? What I can do is tie a sandwich bag to this (preferably on a dry 24hours) then if it's wet inside it means?

So picture with tumble dryer in it is the bottom floor where pipes run up to next floor for the boiler. There's a T piece on the 15mm copper...mabey this is the pressure relief valve pipe leading to a drain pipe? (Where that T piece leads to is the en suite).

Yes mate, bare with me I'll post a picture of the boiler with pics of the pipes running up...later tonight

Thanks mate, I think I'll check the blow out pipe and do what you recommend to see if any water gathering...only issue is my boiler is located in the central of the house upper floor, so not against a gable end wall with the blow out pipe heading through that wall ..any idea where the blow out pipe will lead to? There's an bathroom in room next to boiler cupboard so thinking it mabey attached onto the drainage pipe from sink/bath?

Got a 23/4 year old combi boiler (vokera) runs good and no issues with heating but I am expecting to change sooner rather than later. I've been topping my pressure up every other night as I notice it drops 0.5. - 0.75 bar of pressure every 24 hours... wondered why? Recently fitted new radiators and one of them at the tail Valve has the smallest drip (I wrapped 20 times in ptfe)...it's so small I only noticed a few drips on the laminate and I've since put a cup under it, every couple of days I'll throw the water away but it's no more than a few drops of water. Another existing rad had similar, but drops were from the thermostat rad Valve so I just closed that off and no leaks. (Closed just as I'm not using that radiator) Could this pressure drop from boiler be caused by the leaky rad tail Valve?...just find it mad for the pressure to be dropping from a few drops of water. There's no other leaks anywhere, no signs of water stains on ceilings etc from pipes...mabey a leak under the house in crawl space? Any ideas, appreciated 👍

Thanks alot nick! I'll leave both switches on in cupboard, and kitchen switch off...if used alot of water I.e bath and need more I'll flip switch at kitchen! Really appreciate the feedback

This is my 2x consumer units that are fitted. Hopefully sheds more light...

Guys, thanks to all you're comments...Found them really helpful! Plan is to phone current supplier find out their peak times and go with off peak supply...hoping be enough for throughout the day .ie showers hot water for dishes etc so should be fine. Will bare in mind about octopus energy and give them a phone as be handy for my electric heaters. (Realising smart meter needed). So plan is to leave my off peak switched on all the time. Q... (Double checking) I know the kitchen switch is the booster switch if you like for 24 hour supply hot water to activate if needed (i.e used all hot water that day and wanted a Bath in evening say). Will I leave the cupboard 24hr switch supply on ALL THE TIME and the only way that will heat is if I switched kitchen switch on so it's acting like a breaker when switched off?...so without both switches on the 24hr heat won't activate? To test that's the case I'll knock peak supply switch,24 HR switch and kitchen switch all off and should be quiet. Will then switch 24hr on hopefully still quiet, next put kitchen switch on and if I hear any noise in cylinder I know that's the case. If that appears correct using kitchen switch with cupboard 24 HR supply switched off won't work. Bit long winded above just means if all correct I can get other important things rectified in flat before coming back to this matter with no big electric Bill waiting for me. Cheers again guys!

Advice please? (Attached pics) Got unvented hot water cylinder in a flat (1995 build) I just purchased, fully electric flat no gas. The unvented hot water tank has two switches... 1 is off peak supply (through the night it runs only- cheaper prices). Other is 24 hour on demand so heats at any time throughout day (peak times so normal elec rates). But...There's a third switch (in kitchen).... So I plan leaving off peak switch on and others off so that tank heats up during night and is hot enough next day as I know if left 24hr on, the tank would constantly heat up to a required temp via thermostat so using alot of electricity... I was told that if I wanted a bath say, and the hot water wasn't as warm as I'd have liked (Ie last heated in the tank night before)I can switch on the 24hr switch for hit water in demand...which makes sense. My question is, following on from above I was told I'd have to switch the kitchen socket (silver switch) on along with the 24 HR supply switch to achieve the on demand hot water? Does this sound right...or is it possible that the silver switch located in kitchen is for hot water on demand to the kitchen sink? Also told if just showering and no baths just leave the off peak switch on and rest off so uses as little electriciy as possible. Any tips on this would be great before I waste a small fortune. It all makes sense just the third kitchen switch is throwing me off a little like why is it there and not just use the switch marked 24hr next to off peak?? Any help much appreciated.

Painters advice: Using a water based paint for my walls, first coat went on lovely but when dry I noticed on most of the walls little air bubbles (some as big as a fifty pence piece). Let it dry and I sanded them down which worked. Upon painting second coat most of them bubbles have reappeared? Id love to know you're thoughts/advice for treating as I'm thinking the walls where never plastered...just plasterboarded and joint taped and Mabey the paints seeping behind the paper on the plasterboard causing bubbles?

Hello all, have very little pink paint left and after paneling and caulking I noticed the caulk cracked? Didn't want to take chance with putting the left over pink I have (not a lot at all) to hopefully seal the cracks. So bought a no crack decorative caulk and put a small bead over existing, said can paint within 5 mins but will leave it 24 hours before painting...have I done right thing? Any tips welcome...cheers

I'm in Greenock