Rick734

Thanks @JohnMo, super helpful. I did wonder about many boilers being oversized. Was going to give Stelrad site a try to do some heat loss calcs and see if I can figure it out myself. Do you know how much should be added to allow for the DHW rquirement? Thanks, will definitely consider that one. Glad to see that, thanks, as I had come across it earlier and was wondering if it was worth a shout - will definitely request it! I'm redoing all pipework so no excuse not to do it. Feel pretty thick on this subject - no real idea on what things to ask for e.g. if there's any particular specifics to ask for outside of what we've discussed here, to make it more efficient to run, more intelligent controls, Open Therm(?) etc. It will have a Nest or Hive control etc anyway and all rads will obviously be installed with thermostats etc...

Edited to add a bit of detail.

Evening good ladies and gents of BH, Question on my new boiler if you would be so kind as to vent your opinions. Doing a full refurb on my 1960s 4/5-bed detached in Devon. Been getting quotes on a new system boiler and cylinder from a few local plumbers and have a bit of a dilemma on the kW of the boiler. So firstly a bit about the house - it does have cavity insulation (albeit probably a bit patchy, is evidently not too new), approx 2200sq ft GIFA, 1 main bathroom (separate bath and shower) plus 2 ensuites each with 1 shower, updated loft insulation (another ~200mm on top of the original), brand new double-glazing all round, radiators will be all-new as well. I need the capacity to, in worst-case scenario, have a house full of people in the middle of winter, with all 3 showers running at once. Cylinder will be 300L. Have had 4 quotes from various firms - 3 guys have quoted for a 30kW, which to me seems reasonable given the size of house and what I've seen in other similar-sized houses (but only gut feel) - however the guy I was thinking of using has quoted on a 24kW. He is the Ideal servicing firm for the area, has multiple engineers and should definitely know what he's talking about, and assures me that he's done all the heat calcs and it's absolutely fine etc....however the fact that everyone else has quoted on a 30kW is leaving me uneasy, and (gut feel again) a 30kW just seems like a bit more appropriate for the size of house (Which obviously you good people can't really judge from afar). What do you guys think is the best approach here, I'm practical on quite a few aspects but plumbing & heating is a bit of a grey area for me. I'm willing to challenge him again, but would like to get some independent opinions from the forum here to give me something to think about. Also not entirely sure what is the best way to do the calcs myself, if anyone can point me in the right direction...tried working it out earlier and it was recommending a 6.3kW or something...any help appreciated! Thanks,

Thanks guys - super helpful thoughts. I'll run them past the chippy today and see what he thinks 😃

Thanks @MortarThePoint - apparently a diaphragm to prevent racking or something like that. Pretty sure he's overengineered the whole thing but better safe than sorry I guess... Helpful - so basically glue and nail then to prevent any chance of rubbing at all...

Couple of pics for reference...

Evening all, Just wondering if anyone can advise with a flooring query. I'm doing a TF extension on top of existing single skin garage walls, and the SE has specced a 9.5mm ply diaphragm over the joists, with flooring substrate to go over that (nothing specified for the actual flooring substrate so was going to use 22mm Caberdek). My chippy was saying they'd obviously glue and nail the ply onto the joists, and will use 63mm nails down into the joists through the ply anyway, but was then asking if I want them to glue the chipboard down onto the ply as well. Any thoughts on this? I just want to prevent any squeaking or movement - is adding or not adding glue between the ply and Caberdek likely to have any impact either way?... Thanks Rick *edited for clarity

Thanks for that @Nickfromwales - apologies for the delay! I've got some STS 12.5mm insulation board - would you normally ply behind that board as well? It does have extremely high compressive strength but maybe not so much 'bending' strength, if that makes sense...

Thanks, got it. Don't think I ever took it out of that noggin (just leant the top half back) so should still be correct. Now onto boarding...

Saw you mentioned it in a previous post and it was on offer in Screwfix so... 🤷 Aha will check that, thanks 👍 - don't remember seeing a lower tab so will check

Thanks @Nickfromwales - super helpful. I think in this case I'll leave them off then - gives me 'access' from the front to the fixing points should I ever need them. Added some Sikaflex EBT and 3 chunky screws down each side, let's see what happens! Hopefully never need to get it out. Great point about the demountable cistern as well - had no idea it was so simple to remove...

To jump on the back of this thread...just installed a Geberit WC frame in my downstairs WC. I did it the wrong way round and built a tight framework first to shoehorn the frame into and then fix, but it works. The only thing is I haven't yet fitted the top 'rail' (Which can be seen on the LHS) - anyone know if this is essential? As far as I can see it doesn't do all that much and prodtrudes out the front by 2-3mm, thereby pushing the backer board off the wall slightly when I fit that, so I was thinking of leaving it out. Thoughts please? Edit: the 'rail' is the blue bit sitting on the floor leaning against the wall, for clarity.

e.g. similar to this image:

@Russell griffiths Images attached - overall porch size is 7.2x2m approx. So pretty small as flat roofs go. Having looked at it last night I think I might go down the route of lifting the ledge plate just enough to get all fixings into the blockwork, and then use a long-leg joist hanger to drop down below the bottom of it to take the roof joists at the right height. Sound sensible?

Potentially, but my understanding of a masonry hanger is that it's bedded in and nailed down through the top, before the brickwork above is laid... so not very feasible?