dan_cup

Cheers, I’ve got more in now (but only 5 per length) only put three in last night as I thought the neighbours might not enjoy the impact wrench! also glued with expanding glue. I’ll either bang some more in or get some nut and bolts in aswell before I get the sheets down. thanks all

There’s no room to jack them up, the bricks on the top side are in contact with the joist so I’d be jacking the wall up. Anyway fired some joists along side. Hopefully do the job

Yes at the end I’m interested in the joist are good, solid and firm inside the brick wall slots. On the opposite side by the sink two or three were in poor condition so my builder has already ran new ones sistered and onto dwarf wall and into the wall pocket.

Honestly not sure, the whole house seems to run off in this direction. From the sink side the boards are level with the concrete, by the end of the arrow there’s a 30mm drop.

Cheers Nick, my floorboards now are measuring 21mm so P5 would work. my builder that’s been doing the extension part suggested I use 18mm ply, biscuited at regular spacing to create the strength along the edges. This would also be the final layer of the LVT. the flooring people are, as you suggested, talking about a thin layer over the board I fit. So I’m all over the place with what to do! the P5 does seem far more affordable that 18mm ply. But is it as strong? cheers

Hi, we are going to have LVT laid on the whole hall and kitchen section incorporating the new concrete and old suspended floor. our joists dip into this corner (floor boards are in a bad way as kitchen units have been on top for years) so I need to level up (sister some 5x2 onto the old joists sitting them proud?) you can see the run off from the concrete edge getting larger. i will then replace the T&G with 18mm (or more?) ply glued and screwed. Should I just butt upto the concrete, pass over the top so the SLC can butt upto it, or something else?? cheers

Hello, I'm currently looking into what brand of appliances to fit in my new kitchen. The appliances we will be buying are as follows… Multi fuel hob - picking AEG because they offer a gas and induction option which is perfect for me. An under canopy extractor - recommendations welcomed. Separate full height integrated freezer and intergrated fridge - brand recommendations welcomed. I know Liebherr are decent and Miele stick their name on the same products. A warming drawer, not bothered on the brand as long as it’s reliable. The cover doesn’t show a brand name so it can sit alongside the other appliances anonymously. A single steam oven & a compact oven microwave/grill function - these items will sit in a tower together so I want the brands to match as aesthetically it’s more pleasing. My kitchen supplier is an AEG agent so they offered to supply their options but we will be buying the appliances ourselves and I’m interested if the Neff ovens are worth it for the slide and hide functions or any other recommendations. Given the brands I’ve mentioned, you can presume where my budget lies for brand options - so that rules out the likes of Bora, Wolf etc. We have had appliances from Samsung; Siemens; Bosch & AEG in the past. This kitchen installation is part of a large extension so it's important we make some good decisions but we're also conscious the budget for appliances can't run away from us!

What do you mean here? On the Ecotherm site there a picture of builder using a board that fully fills the cavity? Am I right in thinking its 100mm block, 150mm cavity, 100mm brick. So if we use 100mm Eco therm then 50mm is free air space?

Hi all, so im going out to a few builders to quote for our rear/side extension. We have the planning drawings (basic) and a structural eng drawings for founds/steels. Couple of the builders have asked me what insulation (thickness/type) are to be used and the type of internal blocks (strength rating). this would help them get a more accurate price. From my side the architect didnt provide these since he said that we/the builder could go down the Building notice route which means the builder needs to know these detail them selves? The other route is building regs submission i think? would this be the job of the architect to then come up with the requirements? Im torn what to do since two builders have priced up without me potentially having to budget for extra architect work. Any opinions?

the grey parts underneath are the mortar remains from the brick I've removed. above that will be another course of bricks. If it follows the same pattern I hope there will some supported into the back wall, so I think your suggestion could well work! looking at the picture here I don't think there are any tie in bricks on the front wall until the 7th course of bricks up. you can also see how the gather was before I butchered things

So I could put just 10mm re bar in for example? Flue will be done but stove fitter ( I’m not good on a roof!) hearth and surround being made by stone mason. Carbon monoxide monitor ready to go!

He meant fitting similar lintel sized pieces by removing one block above lintel and going in at 90deg at both sides. personally I was thinking angle iron around the permitter.

few prev

Evening all, I've done a search but not finding my answers so here goes. 1930s semi, opening up the chimney back to the builders opening. The decided it needed to be wider and higher. completed this and fitted a fresh re-enforced lintel which meant we got extra height without removing course of bricks. however the 'gather' was showing so on the installers instruction I've removed a couple rows. my fire installer has suggested to keep pulling bricks out until the tie in bricks are left and the 'unsupported' one are removed. a builder been round this afternoon to weigh up our proposed extension and he commented that how it is at present has some weight up above and id be wise to fire some pins in at 90 deg to the lintel into the rear wall. What route should I take?