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havingago

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  1. thanks both I was quite suprised with the extension application. I was expecting them to say it was over size as it's approx 80% of the size of the existing house but they made no comment on that aspect. I drew the plans myself with help from a friend so avoided any fees and skipped the pre-advice as it was nearly the same cost as the planning application itself. I can get a lot of self build help from experienced trades, brickie, plasterer, sparks etc at minimum costs so would be hopeful to keep build costs low. I will add some measurements onto the site plan so I can show possible parking and upload it here. Looks like pre advice for a new dwelling is approx £500 so I will first read up on the local plan. I saw a great guide pinned on this site regarding a design and access statement that looks very useful. Any view if the imcoming changes for house building approval in 2025 will be helpful? I saw some details that if an application met with the local plan it could be approved without planning committe, not sure if that is only commercial house builders though.
  2. Hello build hub, We previously applied for and were granted planning permission for a large 2 floor side extension to a terrace house (not built yet but planning permission is valid). Life has changed and now will be moving area for work in 2025/26 as employer relocating, son wants to stay in current area. Initial thoughts were to sell the house with the current planning permission. Chatted with neighbour and discussed trying to get permission for a starter house instead of the extension (and they are supportive). The aim would be to sell the original house and give the starter house to my son (a lot of it will be self build). This would get him on the housing ladder and avoid having to rent. Property has sufficient garden to allow both houses to have standard size rear garden, currently no off-street parking. With some thought we might be able to create limited parking at front of the existing and possible new build. If the existing house does not have current off road parking would I need to provide off road for both properties or just the new one? Looked at the minimum space standards for new homes. I need to check the original plans but the approved footprint of the extension is around 5-10% under what would be needed for a new build. Might have some options for sub-dividing the original house, to get to the minimum internal floor area required or increase proposed extension footprint a little or extend into loft. Self build was planned for the extension to the house as otherwise it was far over budget. Costs for new build application and pre advice are quite expensive so was hoping to get some thoughts on the forum please if having a footprint already approved for an extension gave any major advantage and how to approach with the planners? Thanks
  3. Just joined really appreciate some advice please, Side of a double length garage build 1920 ish, probably 15 metres long. Wall is solid brick wall, but not really - never seen this type before, it is two courses bonded with a few odd headers every 7 or 8 courses with a 1-2cm cavity Due to weathering over the years bricks at bottom on outer skin have ruined and the top of the outer skin fallen away, so taken down some of it to footings. The garden siding on has increased soil level over the years that meets the wall and laid a path and it's now above the bitumen type DPC that was laid on the footings on both the inner and outer courses. Question is a) Do we replace the DPC at the original level so it matches the one on the inner skin and then maybe paint on black jack above by 150mm Or b) Replace as in a) and then add a second DPC 150mm above the first - so having 2 DPC's in situ Or c) Replace as in b) and also add black jack between the two DPC's Or d) Ignore the existing DPC level, build up 150mm and add a new DPC and maybe also black jack below new DPC Cannot really dig out the soil to lower the ground level to give the 150mm height to the DPC as path and other features but in conjunction with any of the above I might be able to make a gap of around 100-200mm and fill with gravel to keep the soil away from the wall. I suspect some of the brick damage over the years was caused by the high soil level. thanks
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