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thanks for the discussions, 1, there should be RCD in the main switch box and I don't have it, is it correct? if so I will find an electrician to install one, is it an expensive work? 2, even though the small separate RCD box for SWA is off (I can lock by someone suggested above), but it is still not safe, I need to physically disconnect the cable inside the box, is that correct? thanks, always good to learn something new

Here is what I can see inside RCD, likely the "sockets in the extension" is something controlling the small RCD in the right of this RCD. Also there is a CM below the "kitchen sockets" i have no idea what does it mean

I believe there was no shed at the point, but there was a shed quite far away from the end of the cable. The cable is now just on the ground! Actually, there is another cable from the garage for the garden light, but I plan to change it to 12v for safety reasons. This one might be used in the future. But how can I keep it safe, share I contact it to something like a deadend? The tape seems not durable.

thanks Nick. The issue is that the storage room is used a lot and not convenient to lock, sometimes even kept open. How sure are you that the switch is for the garden cable?

Hello, I found a cable in my garden, the end is enclosed by tape without connection anything/pls see the pic. Seems the cable is from my house and I went to the main switches and there is a residual current device, the cable below seems the same as the one I found in my garden - the switch is off. Can anyone tell if this could be the switch for the cable? I should never switch on the cable if it is, especially considering children playing in the garden. meanwhile, the switch box and the circuits are in a storage room, the door typically closed but could be open by my child, the main issue is the switch is very low (50cm from ground), is there any potential safety issues? I was thinking to make a wooden box to cover it, it is better? thanks

thank you both. I will try it, I tried to use the hair dryer, but it seems not to be working. I may have to smash all the glasses and remove the putty

I want to replace the garage glass as you can see it is broken, but it is hard to remove the sealant, hard like concrete. can anyone tell me how to remove it to replace the glass? Also when I search, most of the products available online are plastic instead of glass. Has anyone used that and are there any issues? thanks

Hi, can anyone suggest how to solve the problems in the ceiling? There are some tiny cracks. I checked in the loft, and it seems there are no issues with the timbers and no leakage from the top. I assume wallpaper is used?

Thank you a lot. How about the stones going to drop in the future? will it make the painting off and looks bad as well?

My house wall is roughcasted. I want to paint it white to make it look better, is that a good idea? How about the stone chips keep falling? The roughcast seems to be deteriorating. If I put my hand on the surface and press a bit, I can see some stones fall.

thanks a lot

There is no holes, it works fine just worry that one day it will be totally blocked or leaked.

Thank you for your suggestions! It is a way that only replace the part about the ground and the part under seems connected with the sewage system, it could be a big project?

My metal downpipe is rusty. Do you have any suggestions for solving the problem? If maintained well, how many years can this pipe be used before replacing it?

thanks Andy. I think it is quite difficult to change the cable and the cable is quite thick! so change the lights might be a good idea I plan to have 3 lights (5 watts/each?) with a potential extension of another 3 in the future, something like below, any suggestions about the transformer and the lamppost? When i try to find online, most of them are with cables and fixed-length plug-ins, which I can't use. Can I buy the transformer and the posts separately?

It should be the main cables I believe, however the cable is along with the retaining wall and under the slabs side the wall so it is hard to be cut since the position. I think it s properly glands since I saw a quite great quality box in the garden. But it just a rubber cable I believe. Let’s assume no one can cut is, will it be possible the cable itself decomposed in soil? what if I change it to 12v, can I reuse the cable? It is about 20m from the main.

Hi, I have a garden lighting that has not been running for 1 year but I plan to repair it myself, as you can see from the pics, the cable is just buried in the soil about 5-10cm deep. no protection at all though seems the cable is quite strong. also because of the tree root part of the cable is now over the ground. 1, is there any safety issue with putting the cable under ground without projection 2, how to deal with this small section (about 2 metres with the light in the middle) that obviously can't bury the cable under the soil due to the dealing between the tree root and the slabs thanks

I am not sure, likely there is no ventilation from the eaves and the top of the roof. But 4 tile-like vents (2 on each side) have been installed recently, does that make a difference?

thank you all! Also, it seems the condensation makes the rafters wet, is it something I should do? I am sure this is not due to leakage since it is nearly everywhere and the felt is wet. This condensation should be here for many years but will it be safe to leave it for the next 10-20 years?

thank you all!

There is a rafter in the loft I found has a crack, the rafter under the felt supports the tiles, the crack is in the middle of the rafter seems small but could be new, it only about a metre long and did not go through it, it could be caused by a storm or recent roof clearing a few weeks ago, a guy took a big bucket of water standing on it, is it something I need to worry about? Is it something insurance can cover if that is serious? thanks

Someone came yesterday had a look found that indeed it is too tight to the top and there is a screw!! the size is 110cm*105cm, and I believe the thickness is standard, it quote for more than £300 inc VAT, is it a reasonable price? Not in London or expensive area.

Thank you for confirming that is the main stopcock. It is a big relieve! - if I want to try - turn it off and on for a minute just to test if it works, will it damage the boiler or I have to reset it (which I really don’t want to do it)? The blue one indeed is a terrible design and what’s worse is below there is a similar one for washing machine, and one about the the tap, at least half is blocked by the board, last time I replaced a washing machine the most difficult thing is to cut off the water! I have to use a single finger push the bar to below the board, and I used at least 5 mins to turn it back!

thanks again, just checked inside. There are two, the blue plastic one is under the sink, and it seems the size is for the dishwasher. Another one seems bigger in the cupboard where the boiler is located, is this one? I did not see any stopcock for the boiler if this is the overall stopcock, where is the one for the boiler? Because the pipe is inside the wooden board, i cant see the size of the pipe, anyone can suggest?

thank you all for your quick replies. I am not confident about pulling the whole thing out since worried it is connected to the pipe and can damage it. But now it is good to know that is not connected, is there a pipe below this whole metal (including the lid) that reaches the stopcock? I also believe the stopcock might be also rusted. If I call the water company, do they charge anything?