LLL

sorry to hear that. All are fine now. thanks

Now everything goes back to normal, no leakage, and one radiator used to not warm now also works perfectly! This is the first time for me and I always worry about the situation can go beyond control and water is everywhere. It gives me confidence and I am sure I can change a radiator next time! Your guys suggestions are so valuable and exact - chatGPT talks a lot if you ask, but many rubbish. When you are up to the north, happy to buy a pint for you! Seriously, if I call someone professional to fix for me, how much I have to pay? Just want to show off to my wife today I saved £xxx for the family!

Just read the manual again, seems this is a standard procedure, it says "When the symbol appears alternately with the flow temperature, the siphon filling program is active. The condensate siphon in the appliance is filled"

Could you please also have a look of the issue? thanks

Hi Nick, I have followed the suggestion replaced the part, it works well and no leaking so far! I got hot water but heating seems not working properly, i can feel a bit warm on the radiator close to the boiler but the temp is not as high as expected, seems the boiler is not burning the heating or working at a very low power, there is a sign shown on the screen, can you please tell what does it mean and how to fix it?

Thank you so much both. I have to say so lucky to have your guidance here, I have bought all required and plan to do tomorrow, hope everything goes smoothly - especially with your valuable guidance. separately, my boiler pressure drops to around 0.7, after top up to 1.3-1.5, in 2 weeks it drops to 0.7 and keeps stable. That happens before this leaking and I checked around did not find any major leak in the house, but not able to see under the floors. Do you know that could be caused by a leakage or system issues? Is there potential leaking in the crawl space, I could check and fix it together tomorrow.

had a look of the video again, i think the green circled part is the part connecting with the radiator, I probably do not need to replace this part, so just use the part in his right-hand in the figure.

thank you, just one question, i plan to buy this one, but if you look at my radiator, seems the part in his left hand will not be used? the one i plan to buy is this one, https://www.screwfix.com/p/flomasta-15mm-x-21mm-white-chrome-angled-modern-manual-radiator-valve-head-body/901fw seems the same, should i remove the part in circle? from my radiator, seems that part is not needed. also the nut, is it the right position? sorry this is my first time to deal with boiler, just want to make sure buy the right one.

thank you! I just watched the video of this guy, so good. He also introduced a way to replace the part without draining the boiler, just use the bleed to drain the single radiator, the water is less than i expected. Do you think, for a beginner, this is easier than drain the whole system throguh the filter on the boiler? BTW, the leaking is on the second floor and the boiler is downstairs, there are 5-6 radiators in both upstairs and downstairs

thank you, Nick, again for your so detailed guidance, I really apppreciate it! I guess i can trun off all radiators to lock as much water inside the radiators so i can drain less water out. Also after i have fixed the leaking, and topup water, since the power is off, how can i know i will not topup too much or too less water?

Great, thank you! i'll buy this one and replace it. Do i still need to buy the " Fernox Hawk White Jointing Compound" AND "Brass olives"?

regarding the part to be replaced, i prefer to have a standard one without drain off integrated, is this the right size? it says 15mm x 21mm ? https://www.screwfix.com/p/flomasta-15mm-x-21mm-white-chrome-angled-modern-manual-radiator-valve-head-body/901FW?tc=JS6&gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22599672207&gbraid=0AAAAAD8IdPxM6oUdBmgO3Bj95chXkP4CE&gclid=Cj0KCQjwl5jHBhDHARIsAB0YqjzybO3b1TquRdHVwV4-L2UsWMD9StnnHwgBZ53aXbVFhr-NDXJtj6UaAi4TEALw_wcB ?

Yes, you are right, it was a bit leaking and then i tried to use spanner to tighten, at the beginning, it stopped but suddenly leaking is getting worse, 400ml everyday at least. thanks for the link i wil buy one to replace all, but I worry about the pipe is broken, if that is the case, shall I cut a bit of the broken part but this side will be shorter, how to do so?

thank you so much! I am really beginner! But can you please tell which point I should open? I assume it is B?

Sorry, i missed that one, it is point A leaking unfortunately.

thanks a lot, it is on the second floor and the leaking part is connecting with the main pipe and i have to drain the water, at least the second floor. do i need to shut all TRV's and Lock shields downstairs? Also i try to find the drain cock as Ajm suggested, but still not not find it (try to avoid the drain the whole boiler as Marshian suggested). If there is no drain cock from a radiator, how can i use the radiator to drain? The bleeding?

I did not find this one around the boiler, is it typically connected with a radiator? I think I saw one in my office.

Thank you so much! I’m a new DIYer, trying to learn from the internet, from everyone here, and from GPT. I’ve found the drain point (25) as you suggested, but it looks like I need to open the front cover of the boiler — which is a bit scary for a beginner like me. Are there any unforeseen problems if I simply follow these steps: turn off the power, open the front cover, drain the boiler through the drain point, fix the leak, and then top up the water?

Hello, one of my radiators is leaking, quite seriously, can be 600ml everyday, i want to repair myself, but the issue is I don't know how to remove the water from the whole boiler system since the leaking point of the radiator is collecting with the main pipe, my boiler is Worcester Bosch Greenstar 8000 Life 30kW Combi Boiler. Someone said can release water from one of the radiators, but i was thinking release it from the boiler directly might be quicker and easiler? Can anyone suggest how to do so? Also someone suggested to use sealant on the leaking point, does it work?

thanks for the professional advice, this is something I did not think of, I only worry that it is too close to the window and may break the beam on the top, but if it is 50-6cm away, I thought that is fine. regarding the joist, I thought if the hole is very close to the wall, see the pic, there should be no joist?

thank you, do you think this solution is as good as the external solution?

Indeed, the back of the hob is another room, which is not possible.

I’m planning to drill a hole in the kitchen wall to vent cooking smoke outside. The hole will be located near the corner of the wall, approximately 50–60 cm from a window frame. It will likely be 100–150 mm in diameter. This is the ground floor and the right side of the wall is another room. Are there any structural concerns I should be aware of? thanks

Hello, I plan to replace my garage roller door. Not sure this is the right place to post. Invited someone to give quotes, one uses Hormann Rollmatic T, another one uses Garador Garaglide. Prices are similar, can anyone give a suggestion 1. Are the two same quality? I heard Hormann is with good quality but they said garador belongs to the same company. Garador has 10 years guaranty and Hormann got 5 years. 2, how about maintenance and repair? My current one is hard to find anyone to repair so I have to replace. 3, length 4.3m, Hight 2.2m, priced at 2600 pounds, including change the rotten wooden frames of the door, reasonable? thanks

thanks for the discussions, 1, there should be RCD in the main switch box and I don't have it, is it correct? if so I will find an electrician to install one, is it an expensive work? 2, even though the small separate RCD box for SWA is off (I can lock by someone suggested above), but it is still not safe, I need to physically disconnect the cable inside the box, is that correct? thanks, always good to learn something new