Little Clanger

Thanks for the advice

I have a vented domestic hot water cylinder on the ground floor of a two-storey house. Cold feed is from a storage tank in the loft. Bathroom and kitchen are on the ground floor. I want to move the cylinder to the first floor. Am I correct in thinking that the head is measured from the tank in the loft to the taps, not to the cylinder, and so moving the cylinder upstairs won't decrease the water pressure at the ground floor taps? Thanks in anticipation

Thanks, SteamyTea. Very interesting

Thanks for your reply and advice. I've got a jacket on the cylinder in addition to the sprayed on foam insulation. What temperature do you have your two thermostats set at? I've struggled to find any clear data on the temperature difference between the upper and lower areas of a hot water cylinder. I suppose another option would be to have a pump circulating the water from top to bottom of the cylinder, the pump only switching on during cheap rate time.

I've got a 1050x450mm hot water cylinder with a single, straight, 30" immersion heater mounted in the top. The thermostat is, of course only 18". I would like to get more of the cylinder heated overnight on Economy 7. There is an 8mm thermostat pocket sited more or less where the immersion ends - a little above it, as far as I can work out. Would it be OK to remove the 18" thermostat from the immersion and instead wire it to a short thermostat in the pocket? I'm assuming that would give me more hot water overnight, but would the water at the top of the cylinder get too hot if the low-mounted thermostat was set at, say 65 degrees? Thanks

Wondering if it would be simpler to just have the 250l Santon Premier Plus and run both the DHW and CH off that by adding an external flat plate heat exchanger. Less cheap overnight heat storage than having both tanks, but only 2 immersions instead of 4

Yet again, thanks for your advice

In my situation, a simple solution would be to have the cylinder (AKA thermal store!) in a small shed adjacent to the wall of the house, where the present pipework is. I've got loads of Cellotex to insulate the shed with. Would that be realistic? If so how much Cellotex would be advisable?

Again, thanks, JohnMo

Thanks, sharpener

That's great. Thanks very much

I don't normally have the heating on 24hrs, but obviously, I need to do a better calculation of how much heat I need. Is there a reasonably straightforward method?

Although it's an unvented cylinder, I was planning to run it vented, with the existing F&E tank Do you mean to set up a secondary thermostat on the higher 'boost' immersion, or on the lower 'Economy 7' one?

Thank you both for your reply

I need to change the heat source for two wet radiators. According to one of the online radiator sizing calculators, together the two rooms need about 2 kW, so presumably for 6 hours running, I need 12 kWh. I have a spare 250l Santon Premier Plus Economy 7 cylinder and an Economy 7 tariff with Octopus. The cylinder is rated to lose about 2 kWh per day, although presumably if I add more insulation, this would reduce. I had thought of heating the cylinder on the cheap rate and then pumping the heated water through an in-line electric flow boiler. The DHW would not come from this cylinder. Would this work? Not sure how to calculate the kWh of the stored heat and not sure how hot can the input be for the boiler. Does this sound basically feasible? Thanks