Lincolnshire Ian

Hi all We have the electrician on site in a couple of days to start the first-fix. He is a super-polite guy, and I want to make his job as easy as possible. Our stud walls are up, but I don't have any plasterboard fixed (some walls are strengthened with OSB board, but not all). Do electricians usually do first-fix in stud partition walls which already have plasterboard on one side, and maybe noggins to support the back box? Or, is it normal for electricians to lay first-fix with just the partition stud-work in place? Just wondering how much humble pie I will need to eat Thanks

Hi folks We are looking for composite cladding and finding it really difficult to find someone who stocks material for delivery this side of Christmas. We have spoken to Cladco - 10-12 weeks lead time for our preferred design. The same for Ecoscape and Neotimber have something which will be OK, but they don't have colour-coded screws! We aren't looking for anything funky - just an oak-type finish. Absolute nightmare. Can anyone recommend a composite cladding supplier who has stock on the shelf available for delivery. Thanks

Hiya We have started designing our kitchen and have faultered at the design of the hob extractor. We have a MVHR system, but want a supplimentary hob extractor. The kitchen has a vaulted ceiling which means a "traditional" design over-hob extractor can't butt up against the ceiling for a clean design. We also aren't planning to have any wall cupboards so an extractor built into an over-hob cupboard wouldn't work either. We have looked at venting hobs but are worried that they won't have enough umphh to control the steam and are massively overpriced. Any help would be appreciated particularly with over-hob extractors which look nice "free-standing" on a wall with no cabinets or vented hobs. Thanks

Thanks for your response everyone, very helpful. Its seems pretty obvious now it's been highlighted that I should use fire resistant plasterboard. I have checked my BC drawings + the build specification from the TF company and it's not mentioned. Thanks Build Hub and the super community for keeping me right.

We need to finish our timber-framed, attached to the house, garage. The walls are 140mm studs with 120mm insulation which was fitted by mistake in the TF factory. We have considered plasterboard, plastering and paint, but this is quite an expensive way to finish the garage. Then we have OSB board, cheap to buy and easy to install, but with a utilitarian appearance. Are there any other options we should consider - we want it to look nice for the least possible money (who doesn't). Here is a picture of the wall. Thanks

My feet are killing me! I bought a pair of cheap safety shoes, trainer style, (maybe £35-ish) from Screwfix and they are SO uncomfortable. Can anyone recommend a pair of safety boots with a wide toe which feel comfortable all day. Happy to pay what it takes for a foot-friendly safety shoe/boot. Thanks

My feet are killing me! I bought a pair of cheap safely shoes, trainer style, (maybe £35-ish) from Screwfix and they are SO uncomfortable. Can anyone recommend a pair of safety boots with a wide toe which feel comfortable all day. Happy to pay what it takes for a foot-friendly safety shoe/boot. Thanks

I am pushing it into a 220mm rafter leaving at least a 50mm void between the OSB sarking on the rafter and the insulation apparently the gap is important as this is a warm roof (vaulted ceiling).

Hi folks I'm going to fit 150mm PIR insulation between the rafters of my vaulted ceiling. Can I simply cut the insulation slightly too large and squeeze it into the gap and the minimal expansion of the foam will hold it in place, or do I need to fix it in place. After the 150mm PIR is fitted I will be adding another 50mm PIR across the whole ceiling which will cover the rafters and 150mm PIR. Many thanks

Hi everyone My clumsy scaffolders haven't been treating the breather membrane on the external face of our frame with the same reverence as the timber frame erectors and we have some minor damage. Should I repair this with "breather membrane tape", does it exist, or is there another way to repair tears? Thank you.

They will want to see a drains test (already discussed it in the most and vague terms) and I'd like to test the system before needing to. If there are any problems better to know sooner rather than later.

Hi everyone We would like to replicate the test that BC will want when they carry out the final inspection. I have asked them what they expect to see and the best and most detailed answer I could extract was, "a normal water test". I have bought the bung to close the pipe run furthest away from the house, and intend to fill the highest inspection chamber with water and monitor for water loss. Am I doing this right, do I need to block the soil vent pipes as with an air test , what is an "acceptable" water drop? Does anyone know of a simple guide for water testing, or could maybe answer a question above. Many thanks

I spoke to the guys from Envirograf and it was a stress-free process for a novice. I explained my scenario, they asked a few questions, made some suggestions and followed up with an email - all within the space of a couple of hours.

Thank you everyone - very helpful. I will call Envirograf to get the info we need.

Ohh, that's a good idea. I need 32m to expand to fill a 50mm cavity. Thanks