Lincolnshire Ian

The test before the pipes get buried seems to be quite straight forward. Thanks for the help. The test at completion though, is a bit perturbing, do I fill up at the traps in the toilets/sinks etc, cap off the underground pipes in the inspection chambers, cap off the vent pipes on the roof and then pressurise?

Hi I have been reading the bumpf from the warranty people (Self-build Zone) and have come across this: All new underground drains must be pressure tested (air/water) at practical completion. Witnessed by the surveyor on the completion visit. A BC Cert is NOT satisfactory evidence in and of itself. Surely drains will be pressure tested before the internal plumbing and soil vent pipes are installed and the trenches are still open to facilitate any repairs. To satisfy this requirement do you just test from the inspection chambers? I am confused, any help would be appreciated. Thanks

We are instructing groundworkers to construct the wallplate which will accept our timber frame building. The tolerances on the wallplate are understandably very tight, 5mm over 8m. So that I can sleep at night I will want to check the measurements myself, and a standard tape measure feels inadequate for these types of measurements. How can I get a super-accurate measurement? Many thanks

Hi folks Do people install the meter box to the timber frame and then outer skin around the box (block and render), or do I need to wait until I start doing the block work to install the box. If the box gets installed on to the timber frame, would this mean that the "hockey stick" cable protector would run in the cavity? TIA

Floor first, but where the cabinets are going to be just do full tiles,no cuts to speed things up. If you are a kind soul leave some whole tiles under the plinth, then if someone (or you) want to reconfigure the kitchen you have made someone's life easier.

The address has changed, but the site is the same. The old site was identified with only a house name. When the prefab was demolished BC issued the plot with a number, and removed the name following the LC house numbering policy etc. I will try OpenReach and probably describe it with a name AND number and see how it goes, I just want to avoid a stupid fee (I already have one of those from National Grid!).

The existing cable is hanging from the pole, I unofficially uninstalled it from the prefab and looped it up on the pole.

Hi folks We have demolished a nasty prefab bungalow and we are building a new house. When we install the broadband, we are planning to install a pipe with a rope so that the fibre cable can be pulled through. The refab previously had a broadband connection, so we know it's on the pole outside the house. Is it just a simple job of choosing your broadband supplier, they turn up, run the cable down the pole, tie it to my rope, pull it through to the house and fit a box in the house, OR do OpenReach need to get involved with undoubtedly massive bills? Thanks

Prefect, thanks everyone.

Hi We need to dig supply trenches for electric and telephone/broadband supplies. Both supplies will come from the same pole, drop down the pole and go underground to the house. Can we use the same trench for each supply, marking up with the correct tape etc? Thanks

I have the dewalt 18v batteries, I am guessing this is what I'm looking for when installing 45x45 battens.

I've just received the list of components for my TF home. It includes 2.3lkm of 45x45 battens for walls and ceilings. That's a lot of battening to do! Can anyone recommend a nail gun that will do the job without spending £5-600. Thanks

Here are my ground core samples. Its expensive, but interesting stuff. The geologist pulled a perfectly preserved shell from the clay and told me that 150000 years ago my plot was part of the sea (the sea is now 15 miles away.

You win this rather expensive competition, your play-dough is wetter than mine. My sampling was down to 5m is yours 4m?

I think that I have seen one of your posts before talking about Town And Country Vibro, and I have enjoyed watching the video Our ground is very dodgy, below 3m it's very wet, the consistency of play-dough. I must admit I thought that the ground improvement route wouldn't work. Maybe it's worth a look though. Thanks for your input, much appreciated.