Sunil237

Thanks John and torre For option 1, is there any con in using 22mm from the manifold to the wet rooms? I have a decent length of hep 22mm piping that I would like to use up For option 2, if I'm able to this I could only do it with plastic manifold fittings due to the cost. Any disadvantages compared to the brass manifold? Any suggestions on manifolds? I only see a few options here but a few different systems in US Thanks

Sorry for the delayed response, ill kids thanks @JohnMo & @Nickfromwales Here are some sketches. I do not have a proper floor plan for first floor unfortunately. I plan to feed my new cold water main (green square) into the plant room which is located at the centre of the ground floor, my house will be 10m wide x 11m deep on ground floor, and 10m wide x 6m deep on 1st floor. There is no plan to put in a hot circuit. The plant room will also house my hot water cylinder, the purple square. The approx run lengths, including verticals, to these rooms are as follows; Kitchen: 12m Kitchen sink, dishwasher, fridge, outdoor taps (h&c) Outside rear wall: 12m outdoor taps (h&c), shower, future hottub. Downstairs WC: 8m Basin tap, toilet, future shower Utility room: 8m Washing machine directly behind WC. Family bathroom: 8m Basin tap, toilet, bath, shower En-suite: 8m Basin tap, toilet, shower Happy to consider individual pipes if a secondary manifold method is the wrong way to go. But it then takes me to 28 feeds + 1 for cylinder all within the plant room and approx 300m of pipe.

Hi all, I saw some really nice ideas on using manifolds from the cold feed and from the dhw to distribute through the house. I have a few specific questions related to my plan I hope you all can help guide me on. My project is a full house refurb and extension. I'll have 3 bathrooms, 1 kitchen, 1 washing machine connection (at the back of a bathroom), and hot and cold to taps outside. My current thought is to do this; Hep20 fittings and pipes New 25mm MDPE to plant room > 22mm stop cock > water meter > 4x (each bathroom & to cylinders) 22mm manifold ports + 2x (kitchen & outside) 15mm manifold ports > at each location secondary manifold to feed each appliance/fitting with 15mm The above would then be repeated to supply hot water but 1 less 22mm manifold ports as I can exclude the cylinder. Questions; 1) is it ok to go from a manifold to another? 2) should I use 15 or 22mm to go from the manifold to the secondary manifold? 3) Should I use 10 or 15mm to go from secondary manifold to appliance/fitting? 4) Is there a better brand to use for this type of system? I am using hep20. 4) does the order of the manifold matter? 5) any other tips? 6) is the general layout of my idea ok? Any suggestions? I really hope I haven't misunderstood all this manifold stuff! Thanks in advance

Thanks guys, attached the PDF of the floorplan here. Heating has been considered as I have a heatpump going in, the engineer has done a full heat loss calc 1.pdf No the SE hasn't suggested supporting the beam, he was confident with the rectangle box beam though.

The structural engineer provided this as the alternate UB 356x171x67. The RHS weighs 500kg, where as the UB will be 600kg, making things significantly more challenging logistically. I really do appreciate the complexities created by such a large opening, infact my wife wanted 7.2m initially!! I've talked her down to 6.4m so far.. Is there a reason for 5m specifically and do all these issues drastically reduce at this mark?

Hi all, My house has fairly recently plastered walls, there's no wall paper and not much damage to them. Other than the new stud walls to be created, I am happy with the state of the walls which will be left. There is going to be a first fix of electrics and plumbing so there will be damage/patch work. Some walls will have panelling added to it. I am planning on how these walls will need to be prepped as I could get this out the way fairly early. Right now my thought is to get an orbital sander and smooth off the paint that is currently on, affix panelling where needed, and then paint a regular coat with a roller or airless sprayer. thanks in advance!

25mm deflection includes calculations to bulk up the figure for safety. The opening is not build yet. I've asked him to provide an alternative calc for a UB. Hopefully something reasonable

This is the reason the structural engineer chose RHS For such a long beam on the inner skin we would not recommend using a UB section, as they are prone to twisting and torsion, and would likely need a really large section size to overcome that, which probably wouldnt look great. RHS beams are not prone to torsion due to their shape. Should I still pursue a UB?

Thanks, I can see their thoughts on adding a plate Not sure why they have suggested an RHS over RSJ, with the multiple opinions here about the two I will ask them to check which one is more suited for for my purpose. Yes flat roof joists will be mounted on this - using posijoists. thanks for the other info too

That @nod and @Conor, in my calcs he did say a shelf plate is optional. I have asked him to include this. Am I summonsed to use the same thickness as the RHS or just go thicker?

What would be the better alternate type?

Thanks John, I have queried this with him but wanted external thoughts too

Received my structural calcs today and I'm not so sure of the solution provided by the structural engineer. I have an extension going up which is 10m wide x 5.5m deep with a flat roof, and a bifold of 6.4m on the rear wall. The engineer has specified a length of 6.84m 250 x 150 x 8 RHS but it shows a deflection of 25mm which I'm concerned about as I need to minimise this for the bifold. Any suggestions on improvements? I have already suggested to make the steel longer as I'll be charged for 7.5m either way and the wall has plenty of space. thanks

My project is in planning stages so hoping to get some advice to change my plans as I think there are big flaws. Hoping for a simple solution that I have overlooked!! The project is a rear extension width of house and out by 5.5m, plus an additional 1m overhang/canopy. I plan to use a warm roof and my builder has suggested to go with a posijoist system partly due to the span. The detail image below is from my architects plans. The way I see it, there is no "tucking in" and a huge cold bridge as the soffit of the overhang is pretty much directly connected to the "warm roof" space of the room. Ontop of that, the metal of the Posijoist will also be a thermal bridge even if this were insulated. I am struggling to picture where and how this should be insulated or if there is a better option. Thanks in advance, happy to provide more info

I read that people use EPS as a sacrificial layer and they expect it to be damaged. From my understanding the PIR would loose some efficiency if the foil were damaged. I will keep this in mind though as when it comes to actually do the work I may want to stop digging early or may get my levels wrong!