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Sunil237

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  1. Another problem! My builder was supposed to build with a 125 cavity and use 115mm ecotherm full file cavity insulation t&g leaving a 10mm gap... They have built to dpc and built all the block work but there's no 10mm gap once you place a brick on the dpc The 10mm gap is to prevent transfer of moisture but it's literally going to be touching the boards Is this an issue and can anyone provide an alternative insulation that would work? I really don't want to compromise the u value as I am going for a heat pump I need them to keep on track and start bricklaying tomorrow! He's only just told me this is going to be the case today
  2. Is there any harm in just core drilling through a 110mm and putting an elbow inside and connecting this to the inspection chamber? a it's too late for a lintel There will be sink waste (from an sink grinder) and dishwasher only
  3. They are using the mortar additive so I'm happy about this. they haven't covered up the works well so far but I'll make sure it's covered once they start again, we will have a few days of dry weather now so it will be best that they let it breath. Luckily today all they did was move about 2ton of MOT to a single spot in the excavated area and empty some of the water out. @saveasteadingcould you link me to a suitable membrane so I can go get it and ask them to lay this before spreading the MOT? Here's my floor build: 50mm Cemfloor screed, UFH, Slip layer/Polysheet, 250mm Celotex PIR, 1200g DPM, 25mm sand blinded, 100mm concrete slab, VCL, 150mm MOT Type 1. 25mm upstand insulation all around.
  4. agree, I was just caught blind by my trusted builder who had an injury and had to back out the job a week before starting, he worked with my on my previous reno 8 years ago and all I needed to say was 4m extension with a pitched roof and it was done within weeks to a great standard. We've planned a lot out but I've lost a month and had to find 4 different people to cover my original builders scope so struggling to stay afloat let alone keep ontop of the details I expected the tradesmen to know and flag up. Luckily my electrician and plumber are top quality so that should ease my burden a bit
  5. Thanks @joe90 that's helped me figure out the plan @Temp unfortunately it's not that he's forgotten.. he just didn't know the correct way so it's going to be upto me to spot these things earlier as we go through. Luckily not the end of the world, as his scope of work is fairly limited
  6. I told him before he did the foundation, which is why he's put a concrete lintel over a drainpipe I'm using for a MDPE water pipe. I assumed he would have just core drilled through for the waste drain with a 40mm but now I've seen the picture I don't think my understanding was right @joe90 thanks, this might be what he was thinking. Would the 50mm fit to a particular type of 110mm drain pipe part?
  7. Hi, thanks. They agreed to not start the bricks so I'm happy with that. They chose to do the MOT but have taken out surface water. I'm confident they haven't ordered enough mot to get to level so I'll expect another load to top it up later, I figure this is the best I'll get now. They could have easily piled up the MOT in the driest corner and moved it around later but too late now unfortunately. Thanks
  8. thanks for the help Nick, I'll be going with your recommendation and using Hep2o throughout. I'll be using the first manifolds I shared which are Hep2o and then just branching off once in each room with smaller diameter pipes. I figured that the secondary manifolds were probably going to cause more pain than help once the plumber gets into the actually practical fitting!
  9. We are having an extension where we have a kitchen sink on the external wall, and I've told the builder that I want it feeding into the ground internally and connecting to the drainage system that way. At the moment he's built to DPC and is getting ready to lay MOT type 1... I would have thought the 110mm would need to be in place first. Am I wrong?? Below is the closest image I can see that represents what I wanted.
  10. Hi folks, Current situation: My builder has excavated the trench and floor, laid the foundation and blocks/blue bricks to DPC. it has been raining so the ground is soft and has pools of water. Next on the list: laying Type 1 and brick laying. Weather problems: It is heavily raining tonight so the ground is going to be very saturated, and the weather for the rest of the week is a max of 2C for a few hours a day and freezing all evening/night with a max low of -6C. My questions; 1) Can the ground be levelled and laid with type 1 whilst it's wet? They have said they will bail out any standing water, but they obviously can't do anything about the mushy soil/clay - ideally this is done tomorrow as they have the digger and dumper hired for the last day. 2) is brick laying compromised in these temps? from what I've read they shouldn't be laying below 2C but in practice is it ok? 3) would it be wise to get my BCO involved about this? I don't want to create a bad relationship with the builder as there's obviously so much to do still Appreciated!
  11. Thanks for the feedback. I'm thinking of using mlcp instead of hep2o. I've found a nice manifold system with riifo https://www.bes.co.uk/riifo-plumbing-manifold-3-4-x-1-2-valved-outlets-4-port-blue-levers-27473/ But wondered if I need to stick with riifo pipe and fittings, or if everything is interchangeable? Is there a brand that's preferred and that would be around for years to come? Thanks
  12. Thanks John and torre For option 1, is there any con in using 22mm from the manifold to the wet rooms? I have a decent length of hep 22mm piping that I would like to use up For option 2, if I'm able to this I could only do it with plastic manifold fittings due to the cost. Any disadvantages compared to the brass manifold? Any suggestions on manifolds? I only see a few options here but a few different systems in US Thanks
  13. Sorry for the delayed response, ill kids thanks @JohnMo & @Nickfromwales Here are some sketches. I do not have a proper floor plan for first floor unfortunately. I plan to feed my new cold water main (green square) into the plant room which is located at the centre of the ground floor, my house will be 10m wide x 11m deep on ground floor, and 10m wide x 6m deep on 1st floor. There is no plan to put in a hot circuit. The plant room will also house my hot water cylinder, the purple square. The approx run lengths, including verticals, to these rooms are as follows; Kitchen: 12m Kitchen sink, dishwasher, fridge, outdoor taps (h&c) Outside rear wall: 12m outdoor taps (h&c), shower, future hottub. Downstairs WC: 8m Basin tap, toilet, future shower Utility room: 8m Washing machine directly behind WC. Family bathroom: 8m Basin tap, toilet, bath, shower En-suite: 8m Basin tap, toilet, shower Happy to consider individual pipes if a secondary manifold method is the wrong way to go. But it then takes me to 28 feeds + 1 for cylinder all within the plant room and approx 300m of pipe.
  14. Hi all, I saw some really nice ideas on using manifolds from the cold feed and from the dhw to distribute through the house. I have a few specific questions related to my plan I hope you all can help guide me on. My project is a full house refurb and extension. I'll have 3 bathrooms, 1 kitchen, 1 washing machine connection (at the back of a bathroom), and hot and cold to taps outside. My current thought is to do this; Hep20 fittings and pipes New 25mm MDPE to plant room > 22mm stop cock > water meter > 4x (each bathroom & to cylinders) 22mm manifold ports + 2x (kitchen & outside) 15mm manifold ports > at each location secondary manifold to feed each appliance/fitting with 15mm The above would then be repeated to supply hot water but 1 less 22mm manifold ports as I can exclude the cylinder. Questions; 1) is it ok to go from a manifold to another? 2) should I use 15 or 22mm to go from the manifold to the secondary manifold? 3) Should I use 10 or 15mm to go from secondary manifold to appliance/fitting? 4) Is there a better brand to use for this type of system? I am using hep20. 4) does the order of the manifold matter? 5) any other tips? 6) is the general layout of my idea ok? Any suggestions? I really hope I haven't misunderstood all this manifold stuff! Thanks in advance
  15. Thanks guys, attached the PDF of the floorplan here. Heating has been considered as I have a heatpump going in, the engineer has done a full heat loss calc 1.pdf No the SE hasn't suggested supporting the beam, he was confident with the rectangle box beam though.
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