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Thanks. I've got a call with the BCO tomorrow so hopefully get a steer in the right direction. I did contact a company that sells the paint but it turns out this is way more of a thing than I had appreciated. I need to complete a form detailing all the specs for the steels to come back with a recommendation. It sounds like this is something I'll need get someone in for as a lot of boxes seem to be needed to be ticked. I was a bit miffed at the suggestion that the expensive extra coating of zinc galvanising might need to be stripped off. Having said all this. The only reason the shelf is exposed is because I wanted to house the glass doors in the cavity for aesthetics, maybe I just go with sitting them in the outer leaf.

Internally PB. Externally it will be exposed and likely clad with some kind of alu trim.

Thanks. I'll take a look at direct to insulation option you mentioned.

Thanks everyone for your responses. Of all the things I am trying to figure out at the moment this was not on this list and had me worried last night as retro fixing it seemed next to impossible. Thinking about it I do have a 90mm SHS corner post where the glass doors intersect along with steels above to hold the wall up. These are galvanised. The post will be wrapped with aerogel but hadn't really got a plan for the top steel. I've no issue priming/painting this though as it doesn't have the blackjack all over it.

Thanks. I was going to raise this as a separate Q but since you mention it. My objection to trickle vents is simply that in my area the farmers always have some kind of fire on the go which just stinks the house out. I was hoping to go with some kind of ducted MVHR/MEV or PIV combo to control the air in and out. Are you saying that even with a properly sized system that trickle vents will still be needed. I can certainly get them as I haven't ordered the glass yet but was hoping the mechanical option would be acceptable.

Thanks. I like this idea as an option. Need to check my levels for the though with the telescopic air bricks.

I am hoping that the architect is soundly using note 4 from 4.2 of part L1(a) 'If meeting such a standard would create significant problems in relation to adjoining floor levels, a lesser provision may be appropriate.'

This is real concern then as this was specified by the architect in the BR drawings submitted to BC. My biggest issue here is that that this has been designed/built to allow a seemless transiiton from the main cottage into the extension on the same level. I can maybe scrape another 15-20mm out of the 65mm screed but was rather hoping to use that for additional celing height as they are only 2250. I literally just finished the roof so there is absolutley nowhere to go height wise. I'll have to ask BC, but really don't want to hear there answer.

Sorry should have added that there will be UFH.

That would be me. Just been out to have a look. If I move the top horizontal batten down 50mm I can get some airflow back around to the top. Still only be say 2mm because the lead will sandwich the top of the cladding. I was originally going to go for cladding laid side by side with a small gap which is why I probably discounted this issue. I like the idea of some kind of grill albeit I imagine its going to cost a pretty penny and kind of messes with the look I am going for. I suppose the trouble for me is understanding if this really is an issue or not.

So this is what I am worried about at the moment. It doesn't at all. The lead is going to be pretty tight to the top with maybe 3mm open to air coming up and under. This was by design from an asthetics perspective however I am now concerned I have an issue that is going to be difficult to fix as the lead is going on at the moment.

Thanks I've got some perforated aluminum trim to go all the way round the bottom. The top will be effectively shut in by the lead so no access from there. The frequency was due to the lack of bricks around the door opening, Circa 6m, and no cross ventilation in that area. What's the concern with the plastic air bricks? They eat them? I am in a rural area so plenty of critters around.

Hi - This is going into a new extension on the back of the cottage. The build up was specified by the architect. I am expecting to have dMVHR or PIV (this will be another set of questoins as I wan't to avoid trickle vents). My experience of recirculation hasn't been great when it really matters. I bought a new fancy aeg hood a few years ago with recirculation and it really did nothing to stop the things you really need gone from coming back through the filters.

Hi All - I'm trying to figure out how/where to install the flat ducting from an island hob extractor to outside. I can't find anything useful on what is an acceptable way to pull this through the floor. The build up for the floor will be a 80mm PIR with 50-65mm screed + hardwood floor. The flat ducting needs to be 90mm so not sure how best to install. I was originally thinking about going as close to the block and beam as I can but the concern becomes whether the air flow would be stifled by the temperature change it meets when colder. Either way it is going to be in both parts of the substrate just not sure which one gets the lions share and why. If anyone can point to an example someone doing this that would be appreciated. Thanks, Paul

Hi All - Just wanted to say hello before I start brain-dumping all the problems I've been losing sleep over for the last few months. I started my extension/renovations last year. Its been slow going and way more expensive than I could ever have imagined but starting to make progress now. That said it very much feels like one step forward and three back. Up until this I had zero experience in building so it's been a mega steep learning curve and only seems to be getting harder. Anyway, thanks in advance for any advice I get here. I've found it very hard to get good advice so far and most of the questions that I have found good answers to came from this forum. Paul