DG77

1. New Build so the CO monitor is mandatory. 2. Flue was checked and cleaned by installer when they returned recently. 3. No smell from recent lights. 4. Door seal has not been replaced - stove has been rarely used. However, when I switched the door to the working stove in adjacent room there was no issue. 5. Okay. This stove has been problematic since install. I've got it close to where it needs to be, but would like to get it fully done. Not sure how I'm worrying other self builders TBH.

I'm only going to compare the vacuum between two back to back stoves which has one underperforming, so I probably don't need that level of accuracy - just need to compare the values between them. So some sort of semi accurate device at that range. There doesn't seem to be anything out there when you consider the accuracy and linearity values.

According to what I've read that is an absolute sensor, not differential. Also, the stated accuracy is ±1hPa which equates to 0.4"WG. There doesn't seem to be much that is accurate at those levels - but most stoves would have similar hot/cold flue vacuums.

Hi, I'm looking for some recommendations for a differential manometer to monitor stove flue vacuum. The stove I've got has a cold vacuum of 0.02"WG and warm vacuum of 0.07"WG. When I've looked at the offerings on Amazon etc, they don't have the required accuracy at these low values. Any recommendations? Thanks.

Still looking at this as the weather prevented us from proceeding last year. I'm wondering if anyone has seen anything using only tarmac/SMA and divided with cobbles or a similar type stone? As the SMA can be SUDS compliant then it should mostly provide a decent foothold around the doors. Looking to see how cobbles or paving stone could be used to make some borders that would break up the yard - which is approx 12m x 14m. I'm still leaning towards SMA with resin bound gravel around the door and path to garage. I've not seen much of it so I'm still hesitant to install it. No real interest in either paving or slabs as I've not seen anything I particularly like in those styles. Also, when installing ACO drains across driveway, is it advisable to use some type of brick/cobble against it rather than SMA for a stronger edge?

At the rear of my house there is a PIR security light overlooking the garage pedestrian door and oil tank. This light has been daisy-chained with some soffit lights into a 6 gang 2-way light switch at the back door of my house. This 6 gang switch controls all exterior lighting at the sides and rear of the property and rear hallway/porch. This isn't ideal as I can't leave the PIR security light on without having the soffit lights on. I'm trying to figure out the best way to separate these out so that I can control the PIR security light independently. The simplest thing to do which would mean no rewiring is to convert the soffit lights PIR equivalents. However, I'm not keen on that idea as we have enough PIR lights around the house and they are in an area where rabbits and neighbours cat frequents, so there would be numerous false activations. I have a strong preference to have the soffit lights and this PIR security light separately controlled. I thought about separating out the PIR security light and wiring it into a free gang in the 6 gang faceplate. However, the electrician only supplied 2 conduits into the backbox and each already have 3 t+e going down each conduit, so there is insufficient space for another cable. My next thought was to control the PIR by converting the 1 gang garage light switch to a 2 gang switch and diverting the feed from the PIR security light to this switch. This back box is supplied with 3 t+e. First is a cable out to the lights (2 daisy-chained LED batons), second is the power and third is unused in the faceplate and cut inside the garage access with a little excess remaining. In the back box, earths are connected, neutrals are connected and lives are switched. Spare cable is totally unused. So, what I'm thinking of doing is as said above - change the faceplate to 2 gang and connect the PIR security light into this faceplate. However, what I'd like to do is to pull the PIR security light cable down into the backbox rather than using the existing cable, if at all possible in order to avoid a junction box and the unknown spare t+e. I've no visibility of the conduit entering the garage attic as there is a joist in the way. I think looking at it that it would be a tricky path to pull to get it into the conduit. Is there any way to successfully pull the cable down using the existing spare cable? My method of pulling t+e with another t+e would probably not be streamlined enough to get around joist. Any suggestions as to how I could pull this? Can I intercept the live feed to the 6 gang switch in attic and join the PIR security light neutral and earth there? The Live to the PIR security light would go to the back box for the 6 gang switch using a single. It would work, but is it acceptable practice as there would be a junction where the PIR security light meets the soffit lights (to extend the cable over to the switch) and again above the 6 gang switch. Are singles allowed for this purpose? Thanks.

Just checking in again to see if anyone has installed a resin surface or any knowledge of them? I've taken a look at the hue asphalt and I'm not sure that it is what we want. Prefer the speckled nature of the resin in comparison to the solid hue asphalt.

Thanks, I had seen that website but somehow forgot all about it. I've sent them an email now.

Have anyone used cloverstone for resin? There is a 21 year warranty on the resin and 10 year on tarmac. https://www.cloverstoneni.co.uk/sectors/residential/

I'll give them a message. I had thought from reading that section of their website that it was only a one off project rather than a range of products they offered.

I had thought of exposed concrete, but the inability to drain freely would be a drawback.

I have already contacted them. They don't do any business in northern ireland.

We have a driveway leading to a back yard which has an area of 170m2. The overall area is just shy of 400m2. This will mostly be surfaced using 10mm SMA. However, there is part of the yard at rear which I'm considering surfacing with a contrast to the SMA. This contrast area will be mostly pedestrian for access to a patio area, garage and vehicles. I'd like for it to have increased grip for elderly family member to walk on during wet weather and winter. We have ruled out paving slabs as neither of us like them, and probably similar for block paving too. Likewise, pebbles/gravel/loose stone is not desired. Preference is for a solid surface. So the question is what type of surface could we get out down that would fulfil the brief and have good longevity? It will be an area of approx 90m2. The remainder will be SMA. I had thought that resin bound gravel would be an option, but I have doubts about it due to its longevity and long term cleanliness. Am I right to be concerned or is that unfounded? One person I spoke to, just suggested to do it all in SMA and use cobbles to create a border to delineate between the areas. Thoughts and suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Thanks everyone. Will contact them at start of the week.

Would there have been an officer assigned to this property? Doing this on behalf of my mum as my father has deceased. I'm not familiar with what has been done so far in terms of approvals etc.