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Sam odell

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Everything posted by Sam odell

  1. Sam odell
    Any idea how much SBR+ to use with bedding mortar? Guidance says 200-300ml per kg Cement. Unsure if they mean cement or mortar. Just need to know how much to splash in for say a bucket of mortar. thanks.
  2. Sam odell
    Thanks, cant adjust using MOT as only half the base is MOT (as explained). The concrete on the right is flat, which is part of the issue. Can't really add more mot onto it. I think I'll just raise the amount of mortar, raising the overall height of patio, allowing the fall away from walls. To address the issue raised by 'Temp' above, I will ensure mot is well compacted, possibly sprinkle in mix of sharp sand and cement to make it a bit more solid, and then use plenty of thick mortar. Do you think that would be ok? It's not a big patio... thanks
  3. Sam odell
    Also - beneath the mot type one on the left is more of the same concrete base, just lower down. mot is about 2 inches thick, beneath it is thick concrete base.
  4. Sam odell
    That would be horrendous. It's very thick. Would laying enough mortar not be stable enough? Or I could take down the sub base and lay concrete to level it all? thanks a lo
  5. Sam odell
    I'm laying a porcelain patio, on mortar, half of it on pre-existing raised, level concrete old shed base, half on mot type one that I've raised up to be flush with the concrete. The patio is walled at the back edge and on the left side with mot type 1. The right edge with concrete just has a wooden fence alongside it. (See pic below - you can tell which side is mot and which is concrete) I'm having issues with the fall as I was planning on having it run down away from the rear and side walls, and off towards the front and right hand side with the wooden fence. I then realised that obviously as I can't adjust the concrete base, the fall won't work well in that direction, as I end up with the lowest point of the patio (front right, fence side) being too low, about 2.5cm above the concrete base. My options are: 1: raise the whole patio level, starting at the minimum front right (50mm probably??) and raising across the patio, so the fall goes away from all walls, but patio level is overall much higher, which I don't want. or 2: Arrange the fall to drain from right to left towards the side wall (this would allow more height over the concrete base side, but means more water towards side wall. If I have side drainage, is this a problem?? Thanks
  6. Sam odell
    Does this look good?? better than the ones above??
  7. Sam odell
    I'm assuming it'll all be done 'properly' as it will be HETAS approved etc. Installers have quoted for a flexible liner system, flue etc
  8. Sam odell
    Thanks - we do have a void, will think about this. I have to choose due to cost constraints and what fitters are offering. What would you suggest?? thanks
  9. Sam odell
    So basically I still need to know which you'd pick out of these if you HAD to: ! The M-Fires Tinderbox Medium The Ecosy+ Hampton 5 thanks
  10. Sam odell
    I'm assuming the house leaks. Happy for a wee draught, need to keep cost down. But useful info, thanks
  11. Sam odell
    Thanks for this. Context is: We just moved. Used to have a real fireplace in old house and we miss it. Want to use this occaisionally through winter months, as it is 'nice' and 'beautiful' etc. Not going to reply on it for heat. Aware of dangers. We also have very very little cash, so are limited to cheapo stoves. So I'm basically looking for the best bang for buck at c. £500/600/700 thanks
  12. Sam odell
    Ah - no the back of the stove leads to the neighbours' front room, so I don't think that's doable for us. So apart from the sealed room air flow spigot - which is the better stove??
  13. Sam odell
    It's a terraced victorian house, stove is for front room - c. 4 square metres. What is the importance of combustion air coming in on a duct pipe? I don't understand anything about stoves yet! thanks
  14. Sam odell
    Hi all, I've been offered two different stoves from 2 different installers: The M-Fires Tinderbox Medium The Ecosy+ Hampton 5 Each installer says their one is the best stove. Anyone know? thanks a lot Sam
  15. Sam odell
    Anyone???🤔
  16. Sam odell
    Hi, We are planning a single storey side return in oxford, on a terraced house. We have a single storey extended kitchen already, this only widens it to include the side alley also. The issue is the neighbours have a kitchen diner beside the boundary. It has 3 windows, all north facing: a skylight on a partially extended kitchen, a regular window in the kitchen part and a side patio door onto the diner. The patio door is closest to the proposed extension, and it is perpendicular to the boundary. I am wondering if the 45 degree or 25 degree rule applies here. My architect says the 25 degree rule applies to the patio door - measured from the sill, which would render the project a no-go due to ceiling height restrictions. I can;t see any regs that agree. Surely as their kitchen has 3 light sources, and the patio door is perpendicular, it is 45 degree at most? And measured from centre of patio door? I attach diagrams. Please help! thanks
  17. Sam odell
    This may be the way to go, if it's doable:
  18. Sam odell
    Thanks again @ETC I think option A looks good. I didn't understand the plan as it shows one single pitched roof all the way along. At the moment, the end reception room has a pitched roof, the roof above the dining area and the small shower room (between kitchen and that reception room) is a shed roof (mono pitch?). That's what's making it complicated - the two different types. As shown here:
  19. Sam odell
    I need to check the drainage out properly. There is a 'hole' that has been filled in with rubble - I think some drains are under there, not easy to see what's going on. The hole is just beyond where the extension would be.
  20. Sam odell
    I've abandoned the 40K budget. What I'm looking at now is steels to open up the space, side return and flat roof. all done by contractor Once the shell is up and plastered, electrics, plumbing etc, I'll do skirting, painting, install new kitchen (will source a cheap one, salvage existing, or freebie, off the shelf etc). budget 50K hopefully/
  21. Sam odell
    This is what I'm considering now.
  22. Sam odell
    Thanks for these plans @ETC I did reply, but my messages have gone awol. Greatly appreciated work. RE. Option 1: I think changing the existing roof to pitched all the way along, adding steels and building a side infill as well may be too costly. I'm considering a flat roof now - leaving the pitched on the rear reception room, the rest (incl infil) would be flat. This would mean no gutters etc over boundary. And flat roofs are cheaper to put in no? Is this true? Option 2: It does remove the need for steels, but doesn't gain as much width, so I'm not sure it'd be worth it. Also - the rear reception room is a necessary bedroom for us. Thanks so much all for this advice.
  23. Sam odell
    Thanks all - by 'build it yourself' do you mean I actually do all the brickwork etc, or do you mean 'project manage' and work with multiple different trades to get it done? thanks - sorry if that's a stupid question.
  24. Sam odell
    I don't think it's that complicated a plan - what's inelegant about it?
  25. Sam odell
    More plans here
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