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Sam odell

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  1. Any idea how much SBR+ to use with bedding mortar? Guidance says 200-300ml per kg Cement. Unsure if they mean cement or mortar. Just need to know how much to splash in for say a bucket of mortar. thanks.
  2. Thanks, cant adjust using MOT as only half the base is MOT (as explained). The concrete on the right is flat, which is part of the issue. Can't really add more mot onto it. I think I'll just raise the amount of mortar, raising the overall height of patio, allowing the fall away from walls. To address the issue raised by 'Temp' above, I will ensure mot is well compacted, possibly sprinkle in mix of sharp sand and cement to make it a bit more solid, and then use plenty of thick mortar. Do you think that would be ok? It's not a big patio... thanks
  3. Also - beneath the mot type one on the left is more of the same concrete base, just lower down. mot is about 2 inches thick, beneath it is thick concrete base.
  4. That would be horrendous. It's very thick. Would laying enough mortar not be stable enough? Or I could take down the sub base and lay concrete to level it all? thanks a lo
  5. I'm laying a porcelain patio, on mortar, half of it on pre-existing raised, level concrete old shed base, half on mot type one that I've raised up to be flush with the concrete. The patio is walled at the back edge and on the left side with mot type 1. The right edge with concrete just has a wooden fence alongside it. (See pic below - you can tell which side is mot and which is concrete) I'm having issues with the fall as I was planning on having it run down away from the rear and side walls, and off towards the front and right hand side with the wooden fence. I then realised that obviously as I can't adjust the concrete base, the fall won't work well in that direction, as I end up with the lowest point of the patio (front right, fence side) being too low, about 2.5cm above the concrete base. My options are: 1: raise the whole patio level, starting at the minimum front right (50mm probably??) and raising across the patio, so the fall goes away from all walls, but patio level is overall much higher, which I don't want. or 2: Arrange the fall to drain from right to left towards the side wall (this would allow more height over the concrete base side, but means more water towards side wall. If I have side drainage, is this a problem?? Thanks
  6. Does this look good?? better than the ones above??
  7. I'm assuming it'll all be done 'properly' as it will be HETAS approved etc. Installers have quoted for a flexible liner system, flue etc
  8. Thanks - we do have a void, will think about this. I have to choose due to cost constraints and what fitters are offering. What would you suggest?? thanks
  9. So basically I still need to know which you'd pick out of these if you HAD to: ! The M-Fires Tinderbox Medium The Ecosy+ Hampton 5 thanks
  10. I'm assuming the house leaks. Happy for a wee draught, need to keep cost down. But useful info, thanks
  11. Thanks for this. Context is: We just moved. Used to have a real fireplace in old house and we miss it. Want to use this occaisionally through winter months, as it is 'nice' and 'beautiful' etc. Not going to reply on it for heat. Aware of dangers. We also have very very little cash, so are limited to cheapo stoves. So I'm basically looking for the best bang for buck at c. £500/600/700 thanks
  12. Ah - no the back of the stove leads to the neighbours' front room, so I don't think that's doable for us. So apart from the sealed room air flow spigot - which is the better stove??
  13. It's a terraced victorian house, stove is for front room - c. 4 square metres. What is the importance of combustion air coming in on a duct pipe? I don't understand anything about stoves yet! thanks
  14. Hi all, I've been offered two different stoves from 2 different installers: The M-Fires Tinderbox Medium The Ecosy+ Hampton 5 Each installer says their one is the best stove. Anyone know? thanks a lot Sam
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