WannabeBob

Thanks. Yes, we’ve checked the dimensions with them and according to our SE that’s the “standard detail” approved by the ICF manufacturer who’ll come on site to help with the first lift as well.

Happy days, I’ve managed to find a supplier to do the links in 90mm without any extra costs. Thanks all for the help. I won’t be needing the jig after all.

Thanks. If you’re happy to sell it I’ll let you know on Tuesday if we decide to try it ourselves.

Let’s just say I won’t be recommending them for many other reasons as well. We’re thinking of trying it out with a bending jig as a trial and see how feasible it is

Which bender did you get?

Although for the price of a takeaway, this might by worth trying https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005983014134.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.pcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller.1.17deBXtBBXtB3z&gps-id=pcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller&scm=1007.40050.354490.0&scm_id=1007.40050.354490.0&scm-url=1007.40050.354490.0&pvid=591a7a8e-a5b9-4053-b294-7087714f343d&_t=gps-id:pcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller,scm-url:1007.40050.354490.0,pvid:591a7a8e-a5b9-4053-b294-7087714f343d,tpp_buckets:668%232846%238116%232002&pdp_ext_f={"order"%3A"43"%2C"eval"%3A"1"%2C"sceneId"%3A"30050"}&pdp_npi=4%40dis!GBP!12.73!8.83!!!119.38!82.80!%402103891017449243290116801e4967!12000035171723357!rec!UK!!ABXZ&utparam-url=scene%3ApcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller|query_from%3A

I might spend more time making a jig than bending bars!

Thanks Russell! Yes we can drop to H8 as well, though with the ones I’ve checked with was still 100 or 110. Yeah. We don’t have crazy amount and it’s pretty much straight bars or square links but I’d still rather avoid bending them on site if I can

Maybe I’m being a bit uppity about it, but how do you know if the rebar meets the standards? I’m assuming that’s why most suppliers can’t go down to 90mm either.

Hey folks, me again! Our swimming pool foundation dig is going well so far. I was wondering if anyone can recommend any rebar suppliers that can do H10 (10mm) links/stirrups with a dimension of 90mm, ie shape code 51 where B=90mm Our engineers have specified 90mm max for our lintels and piers as they want a 30mm coverage each side within our 150mm ICF concrete due to fire regulations. The suppliers I’ve checked with say they can only do down to 100mm, some even only going down to 110mm. I did get a quote from someone that said they could do it, at 20% more expensive and of dubious repute? I say dubious but really it’s just that I haven’t seen them mentioned before, and hoping someone here might have personal recommendations instead. I’ve asked our engineers to come up with alternatives but I’m not very optimistic about them coming up with a timely solution… I’d rather get the bars supplied bent, but failing that how hard is it to bend my own bars for a pencil neck with absolutely no experience? 😅 Thanks!

Thanks, that sounds like it might be the way to go about it then. Yeah we are doing that for the ground floor wetroom too, but wasn’t too sure if this being at the edge would cause issues. It sounds like i’m worrying too much about that though.

I suspect if push came to shove we’d be able to do that, but just exploring options at this point Right, the doors themselves are only going to be installed much later when the walls and roof is up. It’s only the threshold/upstand that might get installed during the concrete pour. The doors then sit on those upstands. I get the mechanics of shuttering then filling in the void, but won’t this create a section that isn’t bonded together as well as a continuous pour? Or does it not matter really?

Passivhaus consultant is keen to avoid a bolt through the upstand to avoid point thermal bridges. There 25 of those over all the doors so not quite insignificant? Otherwise resin anchors would be appealing. The “thermoplastic” I think of essentially purenit on the faces bonded to some kind of insulation in the middle. not quite sure what that insulation is made of. I think your idea sounds similar to a J bolt? But it’s made me think if we could do the slab pour in 2 lifts? First lift then anchor down the brackets into it, then the full lift. Don’t know if that causes issues with the slab? That bit about keeping the threshold in place during the pour is one of my big concerns too. Would there be any issues with pouring the slab in phases?

Got it now, thanks! Thanks! Not sure if I’ll use those for the threshold, but useful info nonetheless, as we’ll be having ICF walls too.

Thanks! I’ll check with them. I’m sure I’m flaunting my ignorance here, but shouldn’t the DPC that we’re overlapping on the upstand prevent water ingress behind the upstand? Or is this a belt and braces thing, though I’d have thought if water did get behind it would be pooling behind the DPC and we’re kind of **** anyway?

Thanks Nick. To be honest, I hadn’t considered adhesives. It will mean we can leave it till after the concrete pour for the window installers to fix the threshold, which would simplify the warranty / workmanship aspect. Using cast in place, we’d need to get our groundworkers to do this which might open ourselves up to a bit of finger pointing if something does go wrong. Something to check with them!

Hi hive mind, we are just about to start our ground works next week, so cue me trying to schedule delivery for all the foundation parts when whoops I’ve just found a small detail that’s fallen through the cracks somewhat. Our door threshold details have been specified in conjunction with Internorm who are our window supplier. This is the detail we have from our architect: which is based on Internorm’s standard detail. All well and good except Internorm wants the threshold to be fixed into the structure to prevent it from moving. Their standard detail won’t work with our setup as the bracket is meant to anchor it into the base, which is EPS for us and wouldn’t really hold a bolt… So we’ve now had the buck handed between Internorm, the window installers, architect, and now structural engineer, with each of them saying it’s someone else’s responsibility to figure out what to do in our case. Internorm have confirmed that the anchors don’t hold the weight of our doors, as that load gets transferred downwards. It’s only there to prevent it from moving. I suspect something like a J anchor fixed to the inside face and cast in place with the concrete should do, and we’re trying to confirm that’s fine with all parties involved, but I was wondering what have others done in a similar situation?

Thanks @IanR, that web stiffeners do seem consistent with the MI. I don't see any truss clips in your images - how have you fixed them to the top plate? Just nails?

That looks like a good way to halve the number of cuts @Chanmenie; I think we might use this thanks!

You mean something like this? (Sorry about my terrible drawing)

It’s actual height. D35 is for the lean to roof on the right. The insulation is at the rafter as there will be mvhr and pipes run above the false ceiling. Wouldn’t a truss still need to be supported where it meets the wall? The main roof spans a rectangle about 11 by 12m, and has rooms in it. I didn’t think a trussed roof would span that distance especially with maximising the room above?

That could be a good way to do it too. What connector did you use to fix the rafter to the plate @JohnMo?

yes i think i’ll get them to fix that detail even if it does need to eventually go through the contractor.

I’m might end up doing much of it myself too. I reckon there’s going to be almost 100 birdsmouth to cut. Yes it’s pretty much just to support the rafters. The alternative was to rip the ICF off to fix to concrete and we felt like that had more chances of creating a thermal bridge if not done correctly. It’ll be hidden above a false ceiling, so wont be visible once completed.

Thanks @JohnMo So building regs wont have an issue with this? And once we get building regs approval, we’d approach a carpenter and joist manufacturer to liaise with our SE to get this all to work?