Jump to content

NoelM

Members
  • Posts

    3
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

NoelM's Achievements

New Member

New Member (2/5)

0

Reputation

  1. Thanks very much for the replies, @ProDave & @JohnMo! Some answers and follow-on questions below... Yes, that's what I mean. Sorry if terminology not right. Thanks for confirming the process! Good idea. I've now used our handheld thermometer in "surface mode" and with the heating on for 10+ hours I get: - flow pipes at manifold: ~65°C - return pipes at manifold: ~45°C - floor temperature: ~26-27°C Perhaps the 65°C suggests the flow temperature is actually too high (at what point could it become a problem for floor materials) and I need to turn it down a bit? Flow rates seem to be adjustable as expected, though I don't actually know the lengths of the circuits (and builder/plumber is ghosting me) so I'm not sure what they should be set to. Heat source at the boiler (combi boiler) is at least 65°C - see flow and return temps noted above. Understood, but it sounds like you'd expect the floor to get above 27°C? (Especially given it's actually fairly mild outside and warm inside at the moment). Thanks. I have read repeatedly things like "Too fast a flow rate will not transfer the heat properly in the room", but I confess that from a physics pov I don't understand why that would be the case. "More flow => more heat" is much more intuitive to me!
  2. The 2-zone underfloor heating installed by our AWOL contractor isn't really doing the job now that the colder weather is arriving - particularly in one zone where the floor gets tepid (~25 degrees) but never warmer and this doesn't seem to be enough to keep the (glassy) room warm on winter mornings, even with the UFH turned on 24/7. I imagine there could be a bunch of reasons for this that will be bloody expensive to fix (e.g. bad substrate or pipe spacing), and I'm very open to suggestions for things I should be doing. But as a first step I thought I'd rule out something easy to fix by venting the circuits and adjusting the water temperature. And I have some questions on that front. We have isolator valves for flow and return on the _manifold side_ of the pump/mixer, rather than on the boiler side. This differs from examples I've seen online where the plumber makes a point of closing off boiler-side isolator valves AND opening up the mixer before venting the system. In these online examples, water is then still able to circulate around the manifold through the pump and mixer valve, but cannot flow back to the boiler. I can't see how to accomplish that same result with my setup. 1. Does having the isolator valves on the manifold side seem like a legitimate design decision or is it a mistake? 2. If the design seems ok, should these isolator valves be open or closed when I pump water in to vent the circuits? I guess closing could be safest re keeping reverse flow away from the boiler, but if I close them the water will not be able to circulate like it can in the online examples. Maybe this isn't an issue? 3. I've been adjusting the temperature on the mixer valve, but have realized that the collar (circled in green) actually moves. When the valve is open, this collar can actually rotate so that the triangle indicating the limit is in different places, and the min/max limits on the valve end up at different amounts of open/closed! With that in mind, I don't really know where the correct position is for this collar, nor what the correct setting is for MAX. How do I make sure I'm not overheating (or under heating) the circuits when setting to MAX? Thanks in advance for any help you can offer!
  3. Hey all. Our builder walked off the job so having to comete bits of it ourselves. Thrown in at the deep end so hoping for a community who can offer some advice. Will probably ask some questions about underfloor heating soon, on the appropriate section of the forum.
×
×
  • Create New...