peredelkin

Interesting. So when the house is up to temp, you keep the pump running but switch off the mixer valve...? Is that something allowed by your ESBE controller or did you wire something custom to get this particular setup to work? I want to control the mixer temp via an app because the mixer and manifold are in my loft and I don't want to go up and down my very steep loft ladder every time I want to change something. Nothing to do with switching the whole heating on/off.

Thank you all. I bought a Salus and will put it in place to see how that works out. I do run a fixed flow temp, but that's just because the boiler doesn't have a heat store and is way too powerful to run this system (don't ask, I'm very annoyed about this). Question: can the manifold mixing valve be replaced easily with an electronic one? If so, have you got any recommendation for an electronic one that works well and can be controlled via an app?

The house is very well insulated. The suspended ground floor has Kingspan between the joists, I have loft insulation and I have 90mm EPS on the external walls. Windows are new and triple-glazed. There aren't any draughts... When you say WC "curve", what do you mean? My Heatmiser wiring centre has three types of outputs to control the manifold: valve, pump, and actuator(s). All of which are on/off. What curve are we talking about? Right, but what's the set point in question? I see no way to control the set point on the Saluses.

What do you mean by "works against you"? Right, but then how are you going to manage the room temperature if you can't control the floor temperature or the flow speed (as the Salus does it for you)? Is there anything that could have been done with a suspended floor? Because my understanding is that you can't put a screed...

No can do. The proposed summer house is at the end of the garden at the border of my property. So the soakway would need to be uphill inside my garden. Sounds exactly like that install I saw in Italy. That too had a high level alarm. But... can these be installed indoors as per building regs?

Hi all. I am planning to build a summer house at the end of my garden. The garden is about 35m long, and it slopes downwards such that the height difference between the back of the house and the proposed summer house is around 5 metres. At the back of the house there is a lateral sewer with two manholes that provide a convenient discharge point. I have mains water and electricity (240v 1P 16mm2 conductors) at the end of the garden where I want the summer house. I want to have a toilet and a sink in the summer house, as I want to be able to use it as an extra guest room. So what I would hope is to have something that can pump sewage upwards and then discharge into the lateral drain that runs behind my house. I have read around about solutions to pump sewage upwards, and there seems to be a whole variety of them: Saniflo, pumping stations, and many many others. I have also read that for at least some of these solutions, you need to have the tank outside the house at a certain distance, which I cannot have. I can only have an underfloor system inside the summer house or a saniflo rear-of-toilet type system. What options are realistic in my setup and don't run afoul (punintended) of building regulations? Does anyone have experience of such systems (especially Saniflo)? (I have seen such a system installed in a flat in Italy where the basement is below the sewer level: there is a 1m3 tank under the floor fitted with a Flygt pump/macerator. There was no bad smell in the bathroom but it does only pump out about 2 meters vertically, and not much horizontally)

Thank you all for your kind replies. The temp is actually 40C according to the thermometer that is fitted to the "hot" side of the manifold . But good shout, I thought as much initially. Agreed, setting flow rates one day doesn't work the next day. I think a lot of it is down to weather compensation issues anyway. I will check out the Salus actuators... Shame that they're not making it too clear when they're releasing the Ultra THB's. I don't want to be buying 9 new actuators and then in 1 month's time... I tried emailing Salus sales but 3 weeks have gone and I have not heard back. Does anybody have any idea who I could ask about the Ultra THBs? I have an engineered wood floor over foiled polysyrene, on a floating wood floor. Nothing that I could do about that as the house is 1930s. However I also have EPS insulation and since I've had that fitted, I have been VERY happy about heat retention of the house. It makes such a huge difference! The pump is on 2/3 lights. 1/3 lights is too weak when all loops are on. How would I convert my system to open loop? And would that even make sense taking into account that different rooms do require different heat outputs in my house? I am end of terrace, so naturally the rooms that have 2 walls exposed will need more heating output than those that have only 1 wall exposed...

Hello all. I have a relatively new UFH system that runs with a gas-fired boiler. I have two manifolds (one per floor), both fitted with mixing valves that are set to 40C, and Grundfos circulation pumps. Thermostats are heatmisers with UH8-RF wiring centres by the manifolds. When the system was commissioned, the flow rates were set very high (3-4 l/m), which meant that the rooms would heat up very quickly and then cool down as quickly. I have also recently insulated the house with external wall insulation and I am very happy with the way the house feels much warmer now. When the recent cold spell started, I noticed that when a certain zone is "running", the room feels nice and warm, while when it is not running, the room feels colder. This is regardless of the actual room temperature, which makes sense due to the fact that when the zone is not on your skin stops feeling radiant heat. I normally have an overnight set point of 18C in most rooms, which changes to 20C at 6am with the idea to get a comfortable temperature by 8am. Playing around with flow rates, I set them to 1.5 l/m, and lo and behold, at 8.30am the temperature would still be 19.5C but it would feel nice and warm due to radiant heat. Bingo! However, with that setting, at around 11am the room would reach 20C, and the loop would turn off. Fast forward a few hours, at 2-3pm the rooms start "feeling" cold even if the temperature is still 20.1-20.2C. This doesn't seem right to me. In my head, water in the loops should be always circulating, and the temperature should be kept around 20C by some smart controller that should measure flow and return temperatures of each zone, while thermostats would keep the zones "around" 20C all the time. All these components are on/off (thermostats, Grundfos pump, manifold mixer, actuator valves), while ideally they should auto-adjust in a smooth manner depending on measured temperature from the thermostats. Questions: Is there really no such system? If there isn't, what's the best combination of settings with my existing setup to get to a constant "glow" of warmth in my house? Am I doing this wrong by letting overnight temperatures drop to 18C? Should I maybe keep the rooms always at 20C and play around with flow rates so that the thermostat is "on" all the time? Should I aim for a flow rate that's so slow that the water is kept circulating all the time and the thermostats never "reach" their intended temperature? Would perhaps fitting Salus thb23030 actuators help? (Any idea when the thb23031 may come out?) What's the relationship between flow rates and "perceived" temperatures in the house? Thank you!