eros_poli

Aye - it's the only full height timber building within a few streets, so might use it as an example if it comes to it. I don't really dislike the render option that's been approved, it just doesn't seem necessary and I'd rather one material. At worst we just do that when it comes to it!

@ETC Yeah they may have just cracked on without it, I can't see the plans online anywhere.

Hi people. We're in Wiltshire, had our planning approved late 2024. Timber clad extension attached to painted stone cottage. Planners insisted on a level of render to the base of the ground floor windows. Still not sure why this was a necessity.. We would love timber cladding all the way down. Simpler, neater, lots of reasons. Is there a process to try again, stating that only a small percentage of the total walls are visible from the street, there's no render on the original property whatsoever, and there is a building up the road that has a floor to roof timber clad extension? (Screenshot of plan, and said building up the road for context). Thanks in advance. Joe

Hi all, We have planning, building regs approval, and begin works in March. Almost all details and head-scratchers ironed out, apart from the topic of this post! We're extending off a gable end of a rubble-stone cottage, with a timber frame, timber clad extension. On two parts, the frame/cladding will need to fix to the existing cottage. I'm still scratching my head on how to best do this, in a neat and weather-tight way. I've attached some screenshots of the plans which show the joins: A: This shows the more complicated join, where the old cottage and the new extension come together at an angle. The join ideally needs to be flush(ish) rather than cladding lapped over the cottage. The secondary head-scratcher here is that we have to (thanks planners) render the new timber frame to the level of the bottom of the ground floor windows. This render will sit approx 40mm shallower than the timber cladding above. B: This shows the same as A, but from the side. C; This shows the simpler connection on the other side of the house, where the connection is an internal 90º. For this we can but the frame up to the house, lap tape/dpc whatever we need around timbers and battens and then carefully cut the last boards to fit the cottage. Any thoughts on methods of how to connect these in a good, neat, weather-appropriate manner (ideally with first hand experience/photos/drawings would be greatly received!! Please no comments on "why is your window that size" or "why doesn't this line up with that?" 🙏 Thanks! Joe

Thanks for the comments @DevilDamo and @torre Think we'll go some some smaller units as the room should be plenty bright enough. Torre yes the additional stud work was added by the chap who did the drawings, we're very much going to embrace the odd angles and not box anything out. It's linked to a very wonky old cottage which has no straight lines! @DevilDamo all has been thought through in great detail already, thanks for the thoughts

Hey We're planning (and nearly ready to build) a two storey extension. The top floor will be vaulted ceiling, two velux's, two windows, open plan. Velux recommend "In general, we recommend that the size of your roof window should be at least 20% of your room's floor area." This would put our two Velux's at 1.9m2 each (closest size being UK08, 1.34m x 1.4m) - those seem enormous when taping them out.... The room (plan attached) will have a window on the NE side, and a window on the NW side, as well as light coming from a small window and small velux in a semi-hallway on the SSW side. The room is approx 19m2. Any thoughts? We can save a chunk of cash down sizing these units (MK06 for example, 78cm x 1.18m, which still seem very large). Thanks Joe

Thanks @Kelvin, looks good. Yes as it stands if I placed the windows inline with the outer edge of the timber frame, we’d have 135mm internally to the edge of the plasterboard, so not a massive space for a windowsill. The windows themselves are 105mm, so not enormously deep, and we're not going passivhaus standard or anything, so our frame isn't the thickest in the world either. Are your frames flush with the outside edge of your frame, or do they protrude slightly with the cill connection being in line? If that makes sense... If not I've attached a marked up drawing. Cill connection in red, edge of frame in green, blue is outer edge of timber frame. Joe

@Kelvin photos would be great thanks - any context is great.

@Mr Punter The response has been the following: I'm trying to figure out if that 20mm is included or excluded in that 107.9mm. Perhaps I can move the window out-bound by 20mm, so the cill attachment is protruding from the timber frame, but the main window frame is still within the frame/insulated area. Joe

Hi forum I've searched around and can't find anything that explicitly helps my situation so here we go! We're building a timber framed extension, with NorDan windows and doors. What I want to know is the best place to put the windows when mounting them to the timber structure; closest to the external face, or further into the frame? Bigger/smaller external/internal reveals etc. But while figuring this out, I realise the largest cill that NorDan provide is 107.9mm, with 20mm of that extending under the window frame to connect to the unit. My build up equates to (outside > in) 50mm larch cladding (board-on-board 25mm) 25mm horizontal battens 25mm vertical battens 9mm OSB 150mm frame. If I want the windows within that frame, that's 109mm minimum that the cill has to cover, excluding any overlap I'd like. Surely this is a relatively simple/regular building make up? Just surprised that I'd need "bespoke" cills.... Any thoughts welcome, attached is my drawing. Joe

Hi Alan, Yes as a by product of a wonky old house and an angled extension they’re not the same angles. Joe

Stand down; I've found a local fabricator who'll make the bracket for £200 with angles/measurements. If anyone's interested, it's Toomers in Salisbury.

Hi people. What I need is best shown on the Simpson Strong Tie US website, but it's not available in the UK (I've checked with Simpson UK) https://www.strongtie.com/topflangehangers_engineeredwoodconnectors/msc_hanger/p/msc It's basically to join two glulam ridge beams, and two glulam valley beams, at one point. It's been specced by the SE. See drawing of location attached for reference. Any recommendations of an off the shelf (albeit custom order) part would be great, failing that a steel fabricator who can whip one up at a reasonable cost with drawings of course. Thanks in advance! Joe

Something a local sales rep for Rationel has brought up, against Nordvest. Any thoughts? - they have been unable to supply any testing certification to confirm compliance with PAS24:2014 or equivalent testing standard which is a requirement for Part Q. I appreciate that you don’t necessarily need to have this, and a Building Inspector may still sign-off on the windows if their construction and hardware is sufficiently robust, but it may be trickier for insurance and building warranty purposes where they often take a less nuanced view.

Thanks for all the comments! Rationel (as of today) can't come anywhere close to Nordvest's cost, 6k vs 9k for our project. Nordan have matched Nordvest, which I was surprised at. Haven't considered Norrsken since the very beginning as they were very pricey, but I'll go back to them again and see what they come up with. Thanks, Joe