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NorDan window positioning in timber frame + cill depth
eros_poli replied to eros_poli's topic in Windows & Glazing
Thanks @Kelvin, looks good. Yes as it stands if I placed the windows inline with the outer edge of the timber frame, we’d have 135mm internally to the edge of the plasterboard, so not a massive space for a windowsill. The windows themselves are 105mm, so not enormously deep, and we're not going passivhaus standard or anything, so our frame isn't the thickest in the world either. Are your frames flush with the outside edge of your frame, or do they protrude slightly with the cill connection being in line? If that makes sense... If not I've attached a marked up drawing. Cill connection in red, edge of frame in green, blue is outer edge of timber frame. Joe -
NorDan window positioning in timber frame + cill depth
eros_poli replied to eros_poli's topic in Windows & Glazing
@Kelvin photos would be great thanks - any context is great. -
NorDan window positioning in timber frame + cill depth
eros_poli replied to eros_poli's topic in Windows & Glazing
@Mr Punter The response has been the following: I'm trying to figure out if that 20mm is included or excluded in that 107.9mm. Perhaps I can move the window out-bound by 20mm, so the cill attachment is protruding from the timber frame, but the main window frame is still within the frame/insulated area. Joe -
NorDan window positioning in timber frame + cill depth
eros_poli posted a topic in Windows & Glazing
Hi forum I've searched around and can't find anything that explicitly helps my situation so here we go! We're building a timber framed extension, with NorDan windows and doors. What I want to know is the best place to put the windows when mounting them to the timber structure; closest to the external face, or further into the frame? Bigger/smaller external/internal reveals etc. But while figuring this out, I realise the largest cill that NorDan provide is 107.9mm, with 20mm of that extending under the window frame to connect to the unit. My build up equates to (outside > in) 50mm larch cladding (board-on-board 25mm) 25mm horizontal battens 25mm vertical battens 9mm OSB 150mm frame. If I want the windows within that frame, that's 109mm minimum that the cill has to cover, excluding any overlap I'd like. Surely this is a relatively simple/regular building make up? Just surprised that I'd need "bespoke" cills.... Any thoughts welcome, attached is my drawing. Joe -
Hi people. What I need is best shown on the Simpson Strong Tie US website, but it's not available in the UK (I've checked with Simpson UK) https://www.strongtie.com/topflangehangers_engineeredwoodconnectors/msc_hanger/p/msc It's basically to join two glulam ridge beams, and two glulam valley beams, at one point. It's been specced by the SE. See drawing of location attached for reference. Any recommendations of an off the shelf (albeit custom order) part would be great, failing that a steel fabricator who can whip one up at a reasonable cost with drawings of course. Thanks in advance! Joe
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Something a local sales rep for Rationel has brought up, against Nordvest. Any thoughts? - they have been unable to supply any testing certification to confirm compliance with PAS24:2014 or equivalent testing standard which is a requirement for Part Q. I appreciate that you don’t necessarily need to have this, and a Building Inspector may still sign-off on the windows if their construction and hardware is sufficiently robust, but it may be trickier for insurance and building warranty purposes where they often take a less nuanced view.
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Thanks for all the comments! Rationel (as of today) can't come anywhere close to Nordvest's cost, 6k vs 9k for our project. Nordan have matched Nordvest, which I was surprised at. Haven't considered Norrsken since the very beginning as they were very pricey, but I'll go back to them again and see what they come up with. Thanks, Joe
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I'm currently trying to decide between Nordvest and Nordan. After lots of good conversations with Nordvest and meeting them at the build it show we were all but set. Nordan comes back out of the blue and offers to beat Nordvest's price, Rationel have always been costlier for some reason... It’s frustrating that most reviews online for each supplier are either "best windows ever" or "avoid!" 😆 I guess it's like anything, if you're happy with the price and the customer service and you get a good product it doesn't matter. Joe
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The right compactor for Geocell floor???
eros_poli replied to eros_poli's topic in Tools & Equipment
Nice one, thanks Dave. -
Hi, I'm about to install a Glapor Geocell floor, provided by Mike Wye. On their guidance it recommends a compactor of between 85-120kg in weight (among other specs). The only compactors I can find for hire around me are 50kg in weight. Does anyone have any experience of compacting geocell with a lighter whacker plate? Ideally it’s electric as I don't want the house to stink of fumes for months..... Do I just need to use it for longer/slower to get the same compaction ratio? Or do I have to use a heavier unit? Here's the lighter weight electric one https://brandonhirestation.com/electric-plate-compactor-hire Thanks! J
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Lime mortar thickness under limestone paving slabs
eros_poli replied to eros_poli's topic in Floor Tiles & Tiling
Thanks for the only reply that's actually answered the question! -
Hi, Struggling to find any sage advice out there on the thickness of the mortar bed to use when laying limestone slabs. This is internal, and we're thinking of using 15mm Travertine slabs. These will be laid on a Mike Wye-supplied Geocell/Limecrete floor, which will be finished with nhl5 lime slab. I assume it would be best to also use NHL5 as the bed for the slabs, and am guesstimating that 20mm would be a good thickness to aim for. Should it be thinner...? Need to know for the excavations working backwards from finished floor level. Cheers! Joe
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We're at planning/building regs stage for an extension, and I'm hunting for a good installer for our heat pump. I won't go into too much detail on system design etc, but wanted to know if anyone had had a good or bad British Gas ASHP install? I've been reading up on Heat Geek certified installers, and seen some bad reviews for BG installs - however SOME say there are some great BG engineers out there who know what they're talking about. I'm not an expert, but the variety of information and recommendations I get when speaking to a handful of installers is concerning. Any advice welcome! I'm in Wiltshire, if that helps. So far I've narrowed down the install to a Cardiff based company, and a heat pump engineer based in Bristol. Thanks Joe