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Gaz Bancroft

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  1. Hmm yeah didn’t think of the council tax implications, they don’t make it easy do they! My slightly left field option would be to keep the house, maybe rent out a room up to £7,500 per year so no tax. And buy a campervan that I could live in during the week to see how I get on with the new job before making any permanent moves. Thanks for the advice all, food for thought
  2. Thank you Stewpot I thought that might be the case which is frustrating. I’ve made a fair gain in terms of what the property is worth now compared to the build and land cost. So having to pay CGT on a proportion of that would likely render renting it out pointless. I’d be better off leaving it empty for a year and keeping it as my primary residence I suspect. I am loathe to sell until I know for sure I want to move, it’s a lovely house just potentially now in the wrong location!!
  3. No CIL in my area fortunately so I’m ok there. I’ve lived here for a year and if I sell it will be due to moving for a job so I’m hoping should be ok with HMRC
  4. Hello, So I have completed a self-build property and have been living in it for nearly a year. I’m a single guy and I’ve been told about a potential job opportunity which would mean I’d have to relocate. I would rather keep my self build and rent it out and rent somewhere else to live for a while, at least until I decide if the move is right for me. Would there be a capital gains tax liability? I understand if I rent somewhere else and rent my self build out it’s no longer my primary residence? In which case would my capital gains tax liability be on any increase in value from what’s it’s worth now to when I come to sell in future? Or if the gain is calculated as a proportion of the increase in value inclusive of the value added from doing the self build (I.e value when sell less costs and land cost) then I suspect it’s not going to be worth me renting it out. I appreciate I should take specialist tax advice as this is a bit of a unique situation, but opinions welcome as I’m just weighing up options at the moment. Thank you in advance
  5. I have now completed my self-build project. I'm just waiting for building control final certificate and then I will be able to obtain my warranty. When can I obtain normal home and contents insurance? The house is build complete and I would like to move in before Christmas but I'm conscious that my self-build insurance wouldn't cover occupation of the property. Do I need the build complete warranty to obtain normal insurance? Do I need to cancel my self-build insurance once I have taken out standard home and contents insurance? Thank you
  6. Morning all, thank you for your comments. Kicking myself that I didn't include the garage on the original application now. I wasn't sure exactly how I wanted it sited in relation to the house and to be honest I wouldn't have thought of having it where I am now proposing it. It will require a planning consent because I am proposing that it is located to side of the house adjacent to the access lane, which whilst not an adopted road is a road with vehicles and so my understanding is that planning permission will be required. I will see if I can include this as a none material amendment to the original planning permission in the first instance. Thanks again for the input.
  7. I am getting close to completing the build of a self-build house, I have a main contractor builder and so haven't paid VAT on works. The house does not have a garage and I am in the process of making a planning application for a single detached garage to be built next to the house. I am funding the build myself but always knew I didn't have enough for a garage as well and planned to build one later but I now plan to get a normal mortgage when the house is complete in order to fund the build of the garage. My query is, I assume the garage should also be VAT exempt but I am assuming I will need to have built and paid for this within 6 months of the house being build complete to benefit from VAT exemption?
  8. Your logic stands to reason so sure you are right! In practical terms then, have you taken finance to cover the full amount inclusive of the VAT and then you'll claim the VAT back? Thank you
  9. I am self funding my build so no mortgage but now running tight on funds. Therefore hoping to use Wren or Wickes for my kitchen and bathrooms and utilise their zero percent finance offers. Does anyone know if this is possible whilst still not paying the VAT? Thank you
  10. I think you have summed it up perfectly that it is all about passing the risk to someone else! I have ended up having to employ a structural engineer who have advised that if we go with a raft foundation then they will certify it so effectively taking the risk away from the warranty provider. We've now proceeded with this so all the soil that was between the trenches has been dug out and replaced with hardcore and we're waiting on steel frame to be made and delivered before we can pour the concrete. I don't know the exact cost implications yet, but my main contractor builder has suggested in the region of 10k and this has delayed us by about 3 weeks. All due to a 1.5m high mixed species old farm field hedge that is being removed anyway! I'm not a structural engineer but my builder, local authority building control and everyone I've spoken to that has been to site have said this is overkill but get to get someone to put their name and insurance to it I guess you have to over engineer it! Not a great start but I guess the main unknown is always the ground so hopefully once we get over this hurdle there won't be too many other major cost extras!
  11. Hi Temp - had a soil sample taken previously which concluded 'Reddish brown slightly sandy slightly gravelly CLAY. Gravel is fine to medium.' It also advised 'Foundation depth for strip and mass-fill concrete foundations where trees are nearby to be 1.26m' So I am going to respond tomorrow and state that surely if we adhere to this that should suffice. Simon - sounds frustrating so hopefully Self-Build Zone are easier to deal with. This is my first interaction as this was first inspection so let's see!
  12. I have appointed self build zone as my warranty provider. I had my first inspection this afternoon now that the foundation trenches have been dug. Whilst the local authority building control inspector also visited and raised no issue the surveyor appointed for self build zone has raised concern about the close proximity of an existing hawthorn hedge given the clay soil and potential shrinkarge influence. The hedge is in situ at the moment and is close to the foundations to be fair, but the hedge will be getting removed in due course. The warranty surveyor has advised that the advice of a structural engineer is sought. I am on a tight budget and I'm not for spending money on extra consultant fees. It is a two storey house and the strip footings have been dug to a metre depth in virgin clay, I can't see how relic roots from a hawthorn hedge that is being removed can cause any structural issues! There is no evidence of the roots impinging on the trenches dug. I appreciate they are acting in my best interest but given the local authority surveyor raised no issue and my builder who has decades of building experience thinks this is overkill I am of the opinion that the services of a structural engineer are not required! Anyone had experience of over cautious warranty provider surveyors?
  13. Yes as part of a future conversion I will insulate and plasterboard when installing the windows in the roof. Noted re trimming roof trusses for larger windows but I think it will be fine with two 600mm wide windows in each room, four in total as I intend to split the space in two to create two extra bedrooms up there
  14. Thank you all for the advice. So, I have specified 40 degree attic roof trusses at 600mm centres. This means I should be able to pop 4 x 600mm velux windows in at a later date and I have specified double trusses around a gap wide enough to install stairs and I have designed space on the first floor landing for where the stairs will go. 40 degree trusses should give me about 2.1m headroom above where the stairs emerge. Have also specified a lighting circuit as will be handy to have a light up there even before I convert as will use as loft storage space to begin with and have also specified a double plug socket at either end of the loft space so will be easy to wire additional plugs off this circuit in future. Will take a look into specifying fire doors to provide a protected stairway, hadn't thought of that so much appreciated. I think I should then be all set for a relatively simple future conversion if I ever need the space or will do prior to selling to maximise value, can turn my new build from a 3 bed to a 5 bed so I imagine the cost of the conversion will be less than the uplift in value. Thanks again
  15. I am currently preparing a specification to enable me to tender for a new build house. I am planning to have 14no. solar panels on a south facing roof and an air source heat pump to power ground floor and first floor underfloor heating. The house is 144sq.m and I have been advised that an air source heat pump of 9kW would be appropriate. Will be three people in the house. We do not currently have an electric car but will be likely to get one if I'm getting free power for it through the solar panels! My query is... what sized battery should I be specifying? My aim is not to be entirely self-sufficient but would like to find a balance where I can reduce energy requirements from the grid (and therefore reduce bills) without over specifying and paying for battery capacity I don't need. I am currently tempted to specify a 5kW storage capacity to begin with hoping that will suffice to power the house most of the time and then maybe add an additional 5kW if get an electric car. Thank you
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