Gaz Bancroft

Morning all, thank you for your comments. Kicking myself that I didn't include the garage on the original application now. I wasn't sure exactly how I wanted it sited in relation to the house and to be honest I wouldn't have thought of having it where I am now proposing it. It will require a planning consent because I am proposing that it is located to side of the house adjacent to the access lane, which whilst not an adopted road is a road with vehicles and so my understanding is that planning permission will be required. I will see if I can include this as a none material amendment to the original planning permission in the first instance. Thanks again for the input.

I am getting close to completing the build of a self-build house, I have a main contractor builder and so haven't paid VAT on works. The house does not have a garage and I am in the process of making a planning application for a single detached garage to be built next to the house. I am funding the build myself but always knew I didn't have enough for a garage as well and planned to build one later but I now plan to get a normal mortgage when the house is complete in order to fund the build of the garage. My query is, I assume the garage should also be VAT exempt but I am assuming I will need to have built and paid for this within 6 months of the house being build complete to benefit from VAT exemption?

Your logic stands to reason so sure you are right! In practical terms then, have you taken finance to cover the full amount inclusive of the VAT and then you'll claim the VAT back? Thank you

I am self funding my build so no mortgage but now running tight on funds. Therefore hoping to use Wren or Wickes for my kitchen and bathrooms and utilise their zero percent finance offers. Does anyone know if this is possible whilst still not paying the VAT? Thank you

I think you have summed it up perfectly that it is all about passing the risk to someone else! I have ended up having to employ a structural engineer who have advised that if we go with a raft foundation then they will certify it so effectively taking the risk away from the warranty provider. We've now proceeded with this so all the soil that was between the trenches has been dug out and replaced with hardcore and we're waiting on steel frame to be made and delivered before we can pour the concrete. I don't know the exact cost implications yet, but my main contractor builder has suggested in the region of 10k and this has delayed us by about 3 weeks. All due to a 1.5m high mixed species old farm field hedge that is being removed anyway! I'm not a structural engineer but my builder, local authority building control and everyone I've spoken to that has been to site have said this is overkill but get to get someone to put their name and insurance to it I guess you have to over engineer it! Not a great start but I guess the main unknown is always the ground so hopefully once we get over this hurdle there won't be too many other major cost extras!

Hi Temp - had a soil sample taken previously which concluded 'Reddish brown slightly sandy slightly gravelly CLAY. Gravel is fine to medium.' It also advised 'Foundation depth for strip and mass-fill concrete foundations where trees are nearby to be 1.26m' So I am going to respond tomorrow and state that surely if we adhere to this that should suffice. Simon - sounds frustrating so hopefully Self-Build Zone are easier to deal with. This is my first interaction as this was first inspection so let's see!

I have appointed self build zone as my warranty provider. I had my first inspection this afternoon now that the foundation trenches have been dug. Whilst the local authority building control inspector also visited and raised no issue the surveyor appointed for self build zone has raised concern about the close proximity of an existing hawthorn hedge given the clay soil and potential shrinkarge influence. The hedge is in situ at the moment and is close to the foundations to be fair, but the hedge will be getting removed in due course. The warranty surveyor has advised that the advice of a structural engineer is sought. I am on a tight budget and I'm not for spending money on extra consultant fees. It is a two storey house and the strip footings have been dug to a metre depth in virgin clay, I can't see how relic roots from a hawthorn hedge that is being removed can cause any structural issues! There is no evidence of the roots impinging on the trenches dug. I appreciate they are acting in my best interest but given the local authority surveyor raised no issue and my builder who has decades of building experience thinks this is overkill I am of the opinion that the services of a structural engineer are not required! Anyone had experience of over cautious warranty provider surveyors?

Yes as part of a future conversion I will insulate and plasterboard when installing the windows in the roof. Noted re trimming roof trusses for larger windows but I think it will be fine with two 600mm wide windows in each room, four in total as I intend to split the space in two to create two extra bedrooms up there

Thank you all for the advice. So, I have specified 40 degree attic roof trusses at 600mm centres. This means I should be able to pop 4 x 600mm velux windows in at a later date and I have specified double trusses around a gap wide enough to install stairs and I have designed space on the first floor landing for where the stairs will go. 40 degree trusses should give me about 2.1m headroom above where the stairs emerge. Have also specified a lighting circuit as will be handy to have a light up there even before I convert as will use as loft storage space to begin with and have also specified a double plug socket at either end of the loft space so will be easy to wire additional plugs off this circuit in future. Will take a look into specifying fire doors to provide a protected stairway, hadn't thought of that so much appreciated. I think I should then be all set for a relatively simple future conversion if I ever need the space or will do prior to selling to maximise value, can turn my new build from a 3 bed to a 5 bed so I imagine the cost of the conversion will be less than the uplift in value. Thanks again

I am currently preparing a specification to enable me to tender for a new build house. I am planning to have 14no. solar panels on a south facing roof and an air source heat pump to power ground floor and first floor underfloor heating. The house is 144sq.m and I have been advised that an air source heat pump of 9kW would be appropriate. Will be three people in the house. We do not currently have an electric car but will be likely to get one if I'm getting free power for it through the solar panels! My query is... what sized battery should I be specifying? My aim is not to be entirely self-sufficient but would like to find a balance where I can reduce energy requirements from the grid (and therefore reduce bills) without over specifying and paying for battery capacity I don't need. I am currently tempted to specify a 5kW storage capacity to begin with hoping that will suffice to power the house most of the time and then maybe add an additional 5kW if get an electric car. Thank you

I have planning consent in place for the attached and I am currently tendering to main contractors with a view to commencing build in the summer. I have specified attic trusses as while my budget will not allow currently allow, and I do not need the space currently, I would like the ability in future to convert the loft space to provide two additional bedrooms. I have also specified that the trusses by spaced such that there is sufficient space between them to allow a new set of stairs to be installed above the stairs that run from ground floor to first floor. A builder has suggested that the rest of the trusses will be spaced 600mm apart and so it would be easy to install say 4 velux windows between the trusses on the north facing roof. What angle roof trusses should I specify to provide sufficient headroom? I presume I need the headroom up there to be something like 2.1 metres at the tallest bit in the centre? Many thanks for any other input and advice on how to future proof for an easy later conversion. 23-131b (16).pdf

Hi, Following a previous thread, I had created on here I've received some good advice and concluded that with a well-insulated airtight new build, underfloor heating on the ground floor only should be sufficient for heating. However, I would rather ensure there is some heating upstairs in case of particularly cold periods or just as an insurance policy if it turns out the underfloor heating from the ground floor is not sufficient to ensure the first floor is warm. My options are therefore underfloor heating upstairs or electric panel radiators. Given I am hoping this will hardly be needed my main consideration is cost of install. Has anyone previously compared these two options? My assumption is that electric panel radiators will be cheapest as its very straight forward to supply and fit? Only negative is that electric panel radiators don't look the best and take up wall space, so underfloor heating has a benefit in that sense but as I say my main driver is install cost. It's a three-bedroom new build so upstairs I'm thinking panel radiator in each bedroom plus electric towel rail in each of bathroom and en-suite. Thank you Gaz

Hi all, Many thanks for the advice, this has been really helpful. PV So, I think what I am going to go for is underfloor heating to ground floor and electric panel radiators upstairs including electric towel rails in bathroom and en-suite. I think on balance this is probably the most cost effective for me both in terms of install and running costs. I'm hoping the upstairs panel radiators won't get much use but are there for cold snaps when the bedrooms might need a blast of heat before bed. Noted about air tightness and insulation being key. So, at the moment spec is; FLOOR. U Value of 0.12W/m²K. (150mm thk Ecotherm Eco-Versal ) WALLS. U Value of 0.18W/m²K. (90mm thk Ecotherm Eco- Cavity Full Fill) CEILINGS. U Value of 0.11W/m²K. 400mm Earthwool WINDOWS/FRENCH DOORS/FRONT DOOR. To have a U Value of 1.20W/m²K, or better. I will speak to architect about increasing floor insulation to 300mm. Also going to speak to window manufactures and consider if go triple glaze if can get the U Value for the windows down given I have a lot of glass in the north facing elevation. Thanks again for the input

Thank you all for the welcome and words of wisdom. Lots for me to consider. I'm going to meet with a few builders and get some advice and ball park costs for them PM'ing and then I can make a more informed decision. This is my bedtime reading tonight sorted! Great advice. There are two houses being built down the road and a couple of others have also been built recently so I was intending to get speaking with the folks who have recently built locally and start getting some recommendations for trades etc. Building bigger isn't an option sadly, planning was refused previously so this is the best I can get as the plot is quite tight. Open fields (for now) to the north so it would be nice to take advantage of the views but acknowledge that this does come at a cost re heat loss I've met one builder so far who would do a great job as I know other houses he has build locally, but his ball park figure for a cost was disappointingly high which has informed my thought process on maybe taking on more myself. I am going to meet another couple of builders too before making any decision so these questions are useful thank you. I'll take a listen, thank you All noted, thanks for the advice

Hi, I own the land, I have planning consent for a house, I have the finance in place, and I am currently working with an architect to finalise our building regs application. Next task is to build the thing! The house will be a three bedroom, detached, traditional build. Going electric only with ASHP and solar panels on the south elevation of the roof. Have tried to keep the design simple whilst remaining aesthetically pleasing, but essentially it's a rectangle box with two bay windows and a porch on the front! I am now considering whether to appoint a builder to project manage the whole thing or whether to attempt to project manage myself! Main reason for considering undertaking myself is the financial saving to be honest, I am a complete novice so the learning experience would also be great! Anyone have any experience of project managing their own build? Any words of wisdom or don't do it advice welcome! I will be working full-time but will be able to visit site once per day and have a retired dad that can help but who also does not have construction experience. If I do take this on I can see me becoming a regular reader and contributor on this forum as I am already losing hours at a time reading existing threads but learning a heck of a lot! Gaz 23-131b (6).pdf