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I know — it’s such a pain with old houses! Drives me crazy. The instructions clearly state that the frame needs to be plumb for the door to operate properly. I’m not sure if the door would open or close on its own if it’s not plumb, but it’s definitely best to get it right the first time. If I pack it out and leave the plastering to the pro, do you think that would be an easy job for a plasterer? I’d like to give them the best wall possible 😄

Thanks

That would help please. Please DM with some pictures. Thank you

Do you mean the pocket door wall or the other one? The pocket door wall will be spot on — the problem’s with the bit of the existing wall I’m tying into.

Yeah, that could be an option, but it would narrow the hallway and I’d still have the same issue — I’d need to make it plumb during plastering anyway.

Hi everyone, I’ve opened up a section of wall to install a pocket door, so I had to remove part of the existing wall. After taking it down, I realized that the adjacent door is leaning slightly toward the hallway. This means that if I install my new pocket door frame perfectly plumb, the plasterboard will line up nicely at the top, but will be about 12mm off at the bottom. When the wall was still intact, I hadn’t noticed the lean, so now I’m not sure how best to deal with it. One idea I had was to build the new wall plumb so that it lines up properly at the top with the existing wall. Then, when plastering, I could fill out the gap at the bottom to make up the difference — but I’m not sure if that will end up looking bad. I’ve attached a few photos for reference (check the laser beam). You can see the wall I’m planning to frame. I’ve fixed a 12mm MDF board to the side of a 4x2 stud to represent the thickness of the plasterboard, leaving a small gap at the top for a skim of plaster. However, the gap at the bottom is quite noticeable. I can’t remove the rest of the wall because it’s lath and plaster, and that would be a lot of extra work. Any suggestions or advice would be really appreciated. Thanks!

Has anyone tried using cement board instead of plasterboard to make the door frame more solid? I’m installing one now and thinking about swapping the plasterboard for a 12mm cement board.

The jamb kit supplied is 115mm and that would fill the pocket frame + plasterboard. If I beef up the wall, I guess it would look nice as the architrave would not meet with the door jamb. Thanks for your help!!!

Thanks for the advise Nick. The width of the wall is 2m and the actual frame for the pocket door is 1630mm. I could beef up the wall but them the finish jamb provided won't work for the finish wall thicknes. I didn't think of other types of plasterboard, I guess the acoustic one could do the job with the same thickness. Would the acoustic be better than the fire resistant plasterboard? Thank you

Thanks Simon, looks really neat, but the new door would connect the bathroom with the hall so can't have a glass unfortunately.

Hi everyone, I'm planning to install a pocket door in my new bathroom using the Eclisse system. The finish will be for a 115mm wall, which the design calls for one layer of 12.5mm plasterboard on each side. Based on my past experience, pocket door walls often don't feel very sturdy. I'm considering replacing the 12.5mm plasterboard with a combination of 9.5mm plasterboard and 3mm plywood to add rigidity. My questions are: 1. Would this 9.5mm plasterboard + 3mm plywood combination actually make a noticeable difference in sturdiness, or would it be an ineffective use of time and materials? 2. Does anyone have recommendations for other reliable methods or material combinations to strengthen a pocket door wall? Thanks in advance for your help!

Thanks for your quick response, it's much appreciated. Would you mind sharing the store where you got it from? Was it supplied directly by geberit? I guess the only real difference between this frame and the other one is just the cistern size, one bigger being bigger, everything else should be same. Thanks

Hi all, I’m trying to decide which Geberit frame (and cistern) to use inside a partition wall. There are so many models, and I’m not sure what criteria are most important. Because I want to keep the partition wall as thin as possible, I found a “slim” frame with a concealed cistern depth of 8 cm (the Geberit Duofix 114 cm frame with Sigma 8 cm cistern). You can see the spec here: Geberit Duofix 114 cm with Sigma 8 cm concealed cistern. (https://catalog.geberit.co.uk/en-GB/product/PRO_3933453) I’m wondering: Would you recommend that slim 8 cm frame over a more “standard” one? Are there trade‑offs beyond cistern thickness (e.g. strength, maintenance, robustness, noise, flush performance)? Are these frames (especially slim ones) compatible with “smart toilets” (i.e. electrical / washlet / bidet-toilet combos)? Or do they require a special conduit or extra provision for the power / signal lines? Thanks in advance for your help.

Hi all, First of all thank everyone for helping and sharing valuable information. I am planning on moving the current ensuite bathroom to a difference location within the room and I would like to get some adivise on whether it is possible or not. In the picture attached, you can see location of the soil pipe and the vent pipe (internal). I would like to move the bathroom to a new location and my first idea is to put a new soil pipe connected directly to the undergoing soil pipe so it is near to the new bathroom location. Also I would like to put the existing vent pipe hidden in the new partition wall for the new bathroom and use that cavity to fix a wall mounted WC and basin. The main questions that I have are: 1. Can I have a new soil pipe connected directly to the underground soil pipe rather than connecting it to the existing soil pipe for old bathroom (see pictures attached) 2. Can I hide the vent pipe in the partition wall? If so, how thick should the stud wall be considering I want to have the conceiled WC within the stud wall? 3. The new stud wall would only be secured to a brick wall on the lelf, rest would be ceiling joist and exiting partition wall. Would this be enough to support the weight of a person seating in the wall mount WC? 4. Does the layout of the new bathroom look good? Any suggestions welcome. Thank you very much for your answers. Cheers