Tide2

"If you heat a sealed cylinder, it becomes a bomb". Indeed! "Thinking about it how is it different to the combi input which would be far greater?" Answering my own question,' what I overlooked in this statement, the heated water is already expanded in the boiler and taken care of with its own safety features

Thanks for pointing that out. There was no mention of it in the info I looked at, but I did have a concern at the time. Thinking about it, how is it different from the combi input heat, which would be far greater

I dont like the added complication of the tundish and discharge pipe work in my situation Thanks for your input

Thanks for the reply "£1400 isn't modest in my book." *Agreed, it's modest compared to a heat pump and solar PV system though "Plus if used the way you are suggesting you would need a full safety group" Not familiar with this term, could you expand please "You may have a few things to resolve" Not sure I follow your logic in this paragraph The cylinder is heated from the heating side of the combi Via a 2 port valve controlled by a cylinder stat. A second 2 port valve valve would be required to allow heating via a room Stat. all this adds complication of course. The hot water side of the combi is not used. The DHW draw is via the the heat exchanger one side being mains fed the other to the taps, as there is very little stored water to be heated in the heat exchanger, way under 15L, so no tundish or discharge pipework required I do like your preheat cylinder idea, not sure it would help with the long draw off time though

I want to use solar PV for hot water during the summer months. Also, the cylinder could be sited nearer the main drawoff points, thus avoiding the annoying wait for the water to run hot. I believe this will reduce energy costs, with a modest outlay, with a fairly simple system

Has anyone experience using or installing these with a gas combi boiler

Thanks mate it's going to be pretty grim Saturday let me know when you're in the area again......... Mick

Im in Penzance. Presumably, we are talking about using PIR insulation board, cutting the correct fall. Would I need to seal the cut face before bonding it into place? what resin would be best? would you recommend using a bonding agent

Hi guys thanks for the replies, yes it's an existing conservatory inherited from the previous owner. Making a form with PIR board and then layup would seem favorite at present, could you go into more detail

My conservatory roof has a built-in gutter molded in, the problem is it falls away from the drainage downpipe, consequently this results in standing water. There is plenty of height on the surrounding facia to alter the fall. Would this be practical? any thoughts or advise