Beagle2

Thanks jfb, re. existing cills, do you mean angled down immediately from the base of the window? Or fell off due to a lack of suitable fixings :)? Shall I mock up a drawing as the joiner describes and submit to BC? Ideally I want to reference some sort of best-practice guideline. But as mentioned can’t find anything for old barn conversions. I want to get it right first time as some of the other works have taken a bit of, er, discussion. (This has always been down to differences in heritage/modern techniques)

Hello, I'm starting drawings for full plans approval to install windows on my small barn conversion. Walls are solid 'rubble masonry' with lime mortar (pic below). The original windows (Crittall type) were just nailed into masonry and mortared around. I can't seem to find a suitable detail for solid walls. The book I bought is all for modern construction with double skinned walls, cavity closers, air tightness tape etc. I've had wooden casement windows built and want to install the units onto large slate cills. The window joiner said just put a strip of DPC beneath the cill and secure using wedges, fasteners, expanding foam etc. The wall should be able to breathe (lime mortar) so I don't see what the DPC adds. Can anyone recommend a publication/source for windows in barn conversions? Basically like the attached drawing but for solid walls Thanks everyone

but how does that work in the diagram, a continuous ‘tilting fillet’ would block the over fascia vent? I assumed with an over fascia vent you’d use individual wedges at each rafter and a felt support tray. (that’s what I was planning to do :)) Thanks everyone for the input

Hello, I'm doing a small barn conversion and am working on the eaves detail. This blog post from LABC appears good, but when studied the diagram makes no sense (to me :)). Tilt fillet or proprietary eaves ventilator? | LABC The LABC blog states "The tiles shouldn’t be just rested on the fascia board as that is not what it is for, it’s bad practice, and makes replacement fascia work harder." However the diagram shows exactly this, all be it resting on a ventilator strip (secured to the fascia). All the examples I can see online (Tyvek technical manual, NHBC 7.2.19 etc) show the first course resting on the fascia. If a slate can't rest on the fascia then what is done? add a lower batten a few mm above the fascia? LABC are not responding and looks like someone else has asked this in the comments Thanks

Thank you Kandgmitchell, this is just what I was looking for. I'm going to follow the SPAB guide combined with a modern breathable membrane, copper fixings and BS 3455 batten spec (rather than chestnut lath and oak pegs :)). I may wet lay the final courses depending on slate size left at this point. It might be just me, from (limited) experience I find BC deep dive into some details but others are just 'yeah whatever, great'. Probably should have gone Full Plans rather than Building Notice.

Hello, any thoughts what’s enforceable by LABC?

Hello, Thanks for all the quick replies, sorry for the delay. I should add that I have no doubt the slates I have are fine and with a suitable headlap will not leak. I may even move to a triple lap as described in this guide: https://www.spab.org.uk/sites/default/files/SPAB Technical advice note-Slating in South West England.pdf (The tin roof was put on by my father when most of the wooden pegs holding the slates rotted) My question is what is actually enforceable by LABC? Just the approved reg documents or any relevant BS standard etc? Say I install a lovely high standard roof, completely in keeping with the surrounding buildings. Only to find LABC state the slates do not meet the minimum size (regardless of headlap) as described by BS 5534. Here is an extract from BS 5534 displaying minimum slate size dependent on pitch: http://www.sigaslate.co.uk/knowledgebase/design-guidance/headlap-tables-for-natural-slate-bs-5534/ Why don’t we just ask LABC? Well, to date everything we have asked in advance has ended in lengthy debate often costing 3rd party advice to convince our point.

Hello, I’m converting a small barn to a dwelling which is listed by curtilage. Planning and listed building consent was done by me. I’m now on the build phase and am finding the Building Control side tricky. Roof was originally slated, a tin roof was put on in the 1960s. We still have a lot of the old slate onsite and want to reuse it. However, pitch is fairly low (~26 deg). According to BS 5534, minimum slate size for my roof is 500 mm x 250 mm (double lap) with a headlap of 91 mm, i.e. way larger the the original slates. NHBC and Building Regs (Part C) don’t seem to mention slate size. What can LABC actually enforce? Just Building Regulations Approved Documents? Or any recognised best practice guidelines? Apologies if this is a basic question.

Hello, I’m a part time care specialist and full time self builder in north Devon. Starting a barn conversion and looking for advice :)