moe

Hi all, hope everyone’s doing good! 👋 Just thought I’d give you all a quick update — I’ve doubled up the trimmer section by the stairs for extra reinforcement, and I’m planning to add a side joist hanger for extra support, highlight in green (fingers crossed I’ve done it right 😅). The red section in the pic will be triple-joisted (7x9 inch) — one end going into the wall and the other sitting on a joist hanger. Hopefully I’m on the right track here too 😳😂👍🏻 Stay safe everyone, and stay blessed! 🦸🏻‍♂️

Hi all, I have taken pictures of the split and cracks of 2 joist timbers (7x3), and I have used a scraper as depth on how deep it is . One of the joists varies to 5 mm to 10mm in split and cracks. The other joist varies to 5 mm to 20mm in split and cracks. What do you guys think, can I use it for a joist section? Thanks you.

Hi all, I can send some photos tomorrow. The timbers have around a 1-inch (ish) split along the side — it varies a bit in and out — but these joists have held up for over 100 years without any real issues. My main concern is whether it’s still safe to reuse them for structural purposes as floor joists. What do you guys think? Thanks, Moe

Hi all, Sorry I’ve been a bit quiet lately — been juggling the property work and a full-time job (send help 😅). I’ll be uploading some pics soon, just haven’t had a spare minute to breathe yet! Quick question though — can I reuse the old brown joists? They’ve got a few cracks and splits inside and out, and I’m not sure if they’re still solid or simply put new ones in. What do you guys think? Cheers, Moe.

Dear All, I forgot to raise this question earlier and would appreciate your input. For sistering the joist, would it be more effective to use carriage bolts or a threaded stainless steel rod? Which option would provide superior structural strength and stability? Thank you for your guidance, Moeen.

I forgot to inquire whether it is necessary to utilize a 'dog tooth-washer' between sistering joists? Thank you, Moeen.

Hello, I really appreciate your response. I can obtain a new full-length timber and wall-to-wall on both sides while sistering. I can double it, and it's feasible since I started early today on the walls, having opened them up from my side. I've done this very carefully, and quite a bit of dust came out, haha.😁😅 So, in theory, I can sister the old joist to create a '6 x 7' inch joist (C24 graded) using nuts and M12 carriage bolts. However, the new joist will be an 8 x 3, trimmed down to a 7 x 3 timber to match the original 7 x 3 timber. Since the new timber is smaller than the original, it makes sense to match them closely for like for likeness. I hope this information is helpful. Thanks, Moeen.

Hi temp, I had to rewrite this again, as I'm not computer literate. Lol The joist that is 7 inches from the wall is currently being supported by an acro prop, and there is no wall beneath it. On the other hand, the joist that is 9 inches from the wall is supported by a wall that is load-bearing, which extends all the way down to the cellar. I've attached a picture to clarify this. As you can see, the stack and chimney breast have been completely removed. The area where the joists are located was previously supported by a 'U' shaped chimney breast, which then split into two chimney breasts leading down to the cellar. In the picture, highlighted in red, you can see that the joist spans 5 meters in length—one end is anchored in the wall while the other end is not. The end that is not anchored is 7 inches away from the wall. Conversely, the joist highlighted in yellow is on a load-bearing wall, but it is 9 inches away from the wall. I apologize if I am going into too much detail; I just want to ensure everything is clear and straightforward. I hope this information is helpful, as I've done my best to explain it clearly. Thanks, Moeen.

Hello! I've created this layout plan to the best of my skills. I hope you find it helpful.