TimberFrame

Not sure of you're still interested, but maybe useful for future readers. I'm not a roofer nor have I built a roof (yet!), but reading about tiled roofs as much as I cam I came across this great website with lots of articles on pitched roofing with expert advice. Regarding roofing mortar mix: https://www.roofconsult.co.uk/articles/tiling/tips43.htm It recommends 1:3 cement:sand. The sand portion to be half soft sand (i.e building sand) and half sharp sand. Their list of tiling and slating articles: https://www.roofconsult.co.uk/articles/tiling/default.htm

Can I ask if you used hold down clips with your Mendip 12.5 tiles, and if yes which make/model of clips? I've been looking into the Mendip 12.5 tiles recently for a shallow pitch roof project and trying to get an idea of best practice with regard to using them. They seem to be a popular tile, but very little info on how most people/roofers prefer to fit them. Mendip recommend their own ''solofix'' tail clips and their special eaves clips for the eaves course, but trying to get an idea of what people do in the real world so to speak, if they do it to the letter, or if they even need clipping on a shallow and low elevation roof.

Thanks for the reply. The shed will be timber framed, and it will be a substantial structure similar to US houses etc, so no problem with the roof weight. The rafters will have rafter ties to brace them against spread so the wall plate will only see the vertical weight. I think I will have to experiment a bit with the verge detail when I'm closer to doing the roof so I can work it all out. But it's good to think about and get other people's experience too so thanks.

I'm going to be putting on a pitched roof (on a shed) using Redland Renown tiles, with cloaked verge tiles. I've decided to counter batten the roof to give a larger batten void (25 mm x2 so 50 mm ) and more air flow under the tiles. It seems like a good idea in terms of drainage over top of the roof underlay too. It will be a warm roof insulated up to the roofing underlay. In the Marley instructions, and according to a guy from Redland, an undercloak board should still be used with a cloaked verge tile to close the opening right under the edge of the claoked verge tiles. Which makes sense to me. The thing I'm wondering now is should I place the undercloak board over the counter batten, meaning the edge of the counter batten is basically visible if you look close (not a problem, just mentioning it for clarity to explain my thought process!), or under it meaning the under cloak board is as low as possible with respect to the verge tiles? There isn't much on cloaked verge tiles on the internet, and not too much on counter battens, so I couldn't find many relevant pictures etc.

Hi Guys, I've visited this forum many times when researching different things and it's always been great to get insight from other people and see how they've done a particular thing. Never posted but am finally a member. I'm mostly interested in timber framed, well insulated and air tight structures, and usually with a pitched roof as a preference. I've done some building work at my parent's renovation project which included taking out a wall, constructing some brick pillars (not done my me) for the steel beam, building a new cavity wall (preparation and concrete done by me, brick laying by bricklayer). Also lots timber work to add bracing to a section of lean-to tiled roof which was added years ago (previous people) to enclose the drive way, but the roof rafters did't have rafter ties to stop them spreading. No spread but the bracing was needed. Hope to learn a lot more. I will post and ask/participate more soon. Thanks