Jimbo123

In middle of a fairly major renovation project. Contract with builder states……. “- Doorway between hall and living room to be removed and made good each side with plaster” And “- To remove wall between living room and dining room, supply, and fit steel beam as to calculations on to engineering brick piers. Plaster and make good around the beam.” This will leave three walls that require making good and skimming. The issue is the walls have painted lining paper on them and the builder wants ME to remove all the paper. He states that the quote and contract was for plastering, not for removing the paper. I expect him to ask for more money to remove the paper if I refuse. He knew of the paper before the contract was drawn up as he commented that it needed to be removed before plastering. Is this sharp practice or is it reasonable for him to behave like this ?

I need to be sure of what I know and these responses have helped enormously thank you !!

Meeting the main man on Tuesday - he has been away for three days since I discovered the error. Usual thing, his builders agreed it may be out, then told him nothing was wrong. Yes he may put his hands up and be reasonable - he said if something was wrong he’d fix it. But he said also said on the phone that they’d done nothing wrong, they had 90deg angles (true but irrelevant) and it was an error with the plan ! If he agrees and puts his hands up I’d be surprised.

The builder said about 3 weeks ago he would either move the IC or lintel over it ..’ so you will have a smaller Inspection Cover’. …now he claims the corner lays just outside the IC. It does because he built the wall that way but ALL measurements and the plans indicate its out by about 10cm inc my string line. He has even built the opposite wall (only about 3.5m long) wonky to the left too so he coild get two 90 deg angles. I know I have a fight on my hands …..

This has been done by professional builders. I am a DIYer and I would have got it right.

…….because if it was straight it would be over an inspection cover, and they would have to have moved it. The plans said they had to move it. Now I’ve got to prove that what they’ve done is wrong……..

Wall is about 9-10 cm to left of where it should have ended if it was straight, after a length of 9.8 metres.

I have about 9-10cm maybe more.

Thanks Guys….. Canski - I have checked it that way, but I will move it away from the wall a little as you say. ProDave - thats what I thought, and amI have already checked that too. I paid extra for a measured survey of the house which shows the rear part in alignment too (also garden boundary wall is too ..Victorian builders !) So what accuracy should I expect ?

If you had to build a new wall (the side of a new extension) out from a house that was a continuation in a straight line from the side wall of the house, how would you make sure that the wall was straight and perfectly aligned with the house’s side wall (which is also about 10m long). I am talking about alignment, so that when you look down the finished wall towards the house, the building line is completely straight along the house into the new wall. And what method would you use to do this if there was a 7’ shed in the way as in the picture. House wall in question is to right of shed door with waste pipe sticking out. New wall would come from right of shed door towards camera (the actual new and incorrectly laid blockwork is visible ). Waste pipe and gas pipes on this wall can be ignored as they were installed after new wall was laid incorrectly. Under these circumstances would you use a string line or laser line - can u describe how u would approach it ? And how difficult would it be to do this and what accuracy should I expect ? Should I expect a straight and perfectly aligned new wall ?

Depressing reading but thanks for the replies.

Thanks again Jimbo

Thanks BigJimbo….looks like a rather difficult conversation will be had. Floor insulation down and slab poured, and several courses laid. Will it be difficult to rectify ?

Youre right - it will stick out.

No it will have as the opposite wall is at a slight angle too….. Any observations on the situation ?

Having an extension built, and one of the sides (10m long) should have been a continuation of the building line of the house. The builders have completed the walls to about knee height, and at the end of this wall, it is 11cm out from where the corner should be (to be a true continuation of the side of the house). The wall opposite has also been built in the same way (apparent by sight as it is next to a straight boundary wall). The plans approved by Planning Authority which were given to the builders show the walls as straight continuous lines with the existing house. The plans showed the corner lay where an old inspection cover is located. They also showed where this inspection cover and chamber was to be relocated (2 metres away from this corner). The builders spoke about moving it or a lintel over the edge of it. But when the wall started to be built we were told that the corner of the wall ‘just misses it’. Now we have discovered it should have been over the edge of the inspection cover. Obviously the builders have moved the loctation of this corner to save a lot of trouble and money. - should the builder have consulted us ? - where do we stand with building control/planning ? - should we seek recompense as it appears the builders have gained considerably at our loss? or is it a fuss about nothing …..? The inspection chamber is for our drainage only - ie not subject to a ‘build-over’ process with local council

Thanks guys !

Thats with 75mm pir

Thanks for the reply Andehh £1500 odd for 3.5 x 3.5 metre area.

Having an wrap around extension built, plan was to have wet UFH (I think the builder is fitting Prowarm system). The floor area slab has been poured over foil faced pir, a 100mm board and a 25mm ontop so 120mm in all. Presumably screed will follow. I think this complies with Building regs. Is this sufficient insulation for UFH ? I read that this will be about 0.25w/m2k, but there is a suggestion that 0.15w/m2k is required for UFH ? Is it worth increasing the insulation, and how could it be done as the slab has been poured ? About 1/4 of the new floor area is the old edwardian kitchen floor. My builder has asked if I want to pay extra and have the old solid kitchen floor dug up to accommodate 75mm of insulation as the old floor has none. Should this be 125mm of insulation to match the surrounding floor ? Or more insulation if possible ? Help ! I don’t want to have this system laid and then find out its not very effective. Any thoughts ?