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Bovril

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  1. Really appreciate this, thank you. By sketches do you mean floorplans? Thanks again for the input.
  2. Just to add, it is currently a 2 bed property but as part of the works we will be putting in a roof conversion. We will be in control of that and so will specify the highest levels of insulation available.
  3. Thanks James. I'm not sure how to get a PDF of the EPC, but below is a copy and paste of most of it: Energy Rating D Property type Mid-terrace house Total floor area 85 square metres Breakdown of property’s energy performance This section shows the energy performance for features of this property. The assessment does not consider the condition of a feature and how well it is working. Each feature is assessed as one of the following: very good (most efficient) good average poor very poor (least efficient) When the description says “assumed”, it means that the feature could not be inspected and an assumption has been made based on the property’s age and type. Feature Description Rating Wall Cavity wall, filled cavity Average Roof Pitched, 250 mm loft insulation Good Window Fully double glazed Average Main heating Boiler and radiators, mains gas Good Main heating control Programmer, TRVs and bypass Average Hot water From main system, no cylinder thermostat Poor Lighting Low energy lighting in 86% of fixed outlets Very good Floor Suspended, no insulation (assumed) N/A Secondary heating Room heaters, mains gas N/A Primary energy use The primary energy use for this property per year is 267 kilowatt hours per square metre (kWh/m2). Environmental impact of this property This property’s current environmental impact rating is D. It has the potential to be B. Properties get a rating from A (best) to G (worst) on how much carbon dioxide (CO2) they produce each year. CO2 harms the environment. An average household produces 6 tonnes of CO2 This property produces 4.0 tonnes of CO2 This property’s potential production 1.4 tonnes of CO2 You could improve this property’s CO2 emissions by making the suggested changes. This will help to protect the environment. Environmental impact ratings are based on assumptions about average occupancy and energy use. They may not reflect how energy is consumed by the people living at the property. Improve this property’s energy rating Do I need to follow these steps in order? Step 1: Floor insulation (suspended floor) Typical installation cost £800 - £1,200 Typical yearly saving £111 Potential rating after completing step 1 65 | D65 D Step 2: Hot water cylinder thermostat Typical installation cost £200 - £400 Typical yearly saving £71 Potential rating after completing steps 1 and 2 66 | D66 D Step 3: Heating controls (room thermostat) Typical installation cost £350 - £450 Typical yearly saving £122 Potential rating after completing steps 1 to 3 68 | D68 D Step 4: Replace boiler with new condensing boiler Typical installation cost £2,200 - £3,000 Typical yearly saving £360 Potential rating after completing steps 1 to 4 74 | C74 C Step 5: Solar water heating Typical installation cost £4,000 - £6,000 Typical yearly saving £99 Potential rating after completing steps 1 to 5 76 | C76 C Step 6: Solar photovoltaic panels, 2.5 kWp Typical installation cost £3,500 - £5,500 Typical yearly saving £629 Potential rating after completing steps 1 to 6 86 | B86 B Estimated energy use and potential savings Based on average energy costs when this EPC was created: Estimated yearly energy cost for this property £1983 Potential saving if you complete every step in order £763 The estimated cost shows how much the average household would spend in this property for heating, lighting and hot water. It is not based on how energy is used by the people living at the property. Heating use in this property Heating a property usually makes up the majority of energy costs. Estimated energy used to heat this property Type of heating Estimated energy used Space heating 6615 kWh per year Water heating 3518 kWh per year Potential energy savings by installing insulation The assessor did not find any opportunities to save energy by installing insulation in this property.
  4. Thanks Steamy Tea. The house isn't capable of habitation on day 1 of completion so it'll be a full renovation from day 1. (We won't be living in there until all the works are done).
  5. Hi all Just to introduce myself here (after being a long-time lurker), after a couple of awful years (wife was diagnosed with the big C) and living with the in-laws, we're now thankfully in a position to take (baby) steps back to living more independently. We're in the end-stages of buying a victorian mid-terrace house in the north-east. There are many renovations we need to do but one priority is what we do about heating. The property is currently serviced by a back-boiler. I am giving serious consideration to replacing the system with an ASHP given that we are starting with, essentially, a blank canvas. Do you think it is possible to utilise an ASHP and have a reliably warm house, especially in the north-east? Using your learning and experience, what would you say would be the steps involved in getting a system that is both effective and reliable? The. big issues I see (but please, please, please add to them if you think necessary) are: 1. Insulation. We are mid-terrace. Have no issue hacking back plaster and putting in insulated plasterboard (what thickness would you recommend?). Head height is good so no issues putting down 4 or 6 inches of kingspan floor insulation. What insulation is needed between floors? Anything special? What about air ventilation and what do we need to do to avoid mould/damp patches? 2. Output. Thinking UFH for the downstairs and then radiators for the 3 bedrooms. What about the upstairs bathroom? Would you UFH that or just radiator? What do you use for showers? Electric showers, or hot water cylinder? 3. House (when finished) will be about 1000 sq feet with a roof conversion. What size ASHP is needed? I don't mind paying extra to get something oversized if it means more reliability / less stress on the system. What brands and models would you recommend? 4. Windows - what windows (is double glazed upvc OK?) and what insulation around windows is recommended? Doors - planning to get Solidoor composite door. The property's EPC doesn't make any recommendations on cavity wall or roof insulation (both were satisfactory) so I think we're eligible for the government grant. The final (big) question is how do I locate a competent specialist to install in the north-east? I've called a couple of businesses checkatrade says are ASHP specialists but they both are clearly conventional plumbers who are are just starting out with ASHPs. Neither of them seemed to think re-insulating the house was a good idea which was a little worrying to me. The key drivers for us are warm and reliable heating - once we move in I'd like to be able to largely set and forget as we try and build our lives again. The driver isn't so much the cost. Be grateful for any thoughts or even an action plan of the order of things we need to consider. Thanks
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