AChristie

Thanks @JohnMo Dulux Trade has been my 'go to' for all walls and ceilings in my renovation so far. Is it the trade satinwood, or diamond trade satinwood you're suggesting?

Can anyone recommend a good paint for wooden stair years treads? I've removed carpet and will be adding a runner, with white painted on either side. Cheers

In that case I'll definitely leave it as is, there's only a couple of loose creaks here and there. I'll know for next time! Cheers guys.

It's all boarded up and decorated finish, the space under the stairs has pull out drawers and a cupboard. Oh dear! On the bright side, knowing this, at least I'll not waste time or screws attempting to fix it from this side.

Does anyone know where I should be looking to add additional screws to sure up some squeaky flooring on my stairs? Removed all the carpet and underlay today, ready for some decorating and a floor runner. However I'd like to try and address a few squeaks and creaks before getting on with that! I can't access under the stairs, so need to address from what can be seen in the photo. Cheers

Thanks both, saw some conflicting advice online (no surprise there i guess). Good to get this confirmed.

I've got a large area across the back of my house to lay a patio. On both sides of the garden, I'll need to replace the fence, on one side it'll require new concrete posts for the fences. So my question, is there an order in which I should approach this? Patio or fencing first? Cheers

Evening, so we're in the process of installing some new rads into a gas boiler CH system. Also have a new towel rail in an en-suite (with a manual valve). I have purchased the rads, based upon BTU requirements and i ordered some TRV valves to go with each new rad. There are a couple of old rads still hanging around (which we may replace also TBC, they too have TRVs). However, just recently heard about another type of valve - Lockshield. Done some reading up and can't understand in what situation i would need them, or how many etc. I went back to where I purchased my TRVs from and can see there is an option to have TRVS with (and without) lockshield. How do I know if i need lockshield, valves? What do they do? Cheers

So what is the main difference between LW1 and TC15?

Thanks @Nod - more options from K Rend, or elsewhere? I spoke to my local K Rend contact today, he also recommendedTC 15 due to the mixed nature of my base layers.

Hi, I'm after some advice when it comes to rendering my house. I have been recommended K Rend as a quality, low maintenance product, albeit at a premium price over sand and cement. When speaking to a K Rend technical advisor through emails, i was advised that due to the exterior of my house having both a combination of block work (new extension) and EPS board (over original building) as the external facing surfaces I would have to go with a Silicone Thin Coat - TC15 product. K Rend told me that Silcone TC 15 was my only option and that ruled out their Monocouche product (K Mono). I hadn't actually heard of monocouche, so don't know what i am missing out on. Is the difference between them down to finish / colour / maintenance / price / install process? On doing some basic searching I can see Weber are a big name of Monocouche. I also don't know whether i should be considering any other product to K Rend TC15. Any advice, or thought provocation would be appreciated. Cheers

I did some digging through all the old documents that previous owner left. Looks like the cavity wall insulation was installed by a company called Megafoam (from Kent) back in September 1980. So chances are it is UF Foam, but having done some rudimentary reading as @Redbeard has suggested, enough time has passed. Funnily enough, document also states the Megafoam is guaranteed for the life of the building - ironic, as it doesn't look like Megafoam still exist

This sounds like the stuff i have found in other other wall, i imagine it was done a long time back (can't really tell, only been in the house a couple of years) crumbles to nothing when you hold it. I was able to take it out in fairly large chunks. You can see some of it hiding in this small cavity, it's the white stuff protruding, comes out it largish chunks, but will crumble quite easily. Do I need to worry if it is formaldehyde? There are two piers, they line up with the two ends of the house, possible thermal bridging, but i am hoping to avoid messing around with them.

Thanks @ProDave - You have me doubting myself now, we have taken down one of the walls on the leaf of the house which was brick and this did have the pumped insulation inside the cavity - but i will need to double check the blockwork forms part of a cavity. I was looking to hide the piers with the render TBH, as i am not a fan of the colour/type of brick. I take it you're suggesting that isn't advisable due to having to render over two adjoining different materials?

Hello, we've removed old 1960's tile cladding from our house and intend to have a render finish. Before render, we'd like to add some external insulation (the cavity walls have an injected foam insulation, but it's not super effective). The hope for the insulation is that we can also achieve a flush finish with the existing brick piers at either corner of the house. As per the attached, you can see that the depth is around 190mm (200mm in places). I understand K Rend will have a finished thickness of somewhere between 14 and 18mm. So this means i need to find approximately 180mm of insulation. Does anyone have any ideas on what my options could be for application beneath the render? If i could aod having to do too much wood work to batten out, that would be ideal to reduce cost. So if there were any 'direct fix' solutions. I'm also not sure whether would need to leave an ar gap, as yo dou with a PIR when inserting into an external cavity. Cheers