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Really appreciate all the help and advice. Given me lots to consider. Basically the original builder bodged the EPDM around the roof light. I'll look for an expert to sort. Any recommendations in the SE22 area of London (East Dulwich)?

Roof only about 18 months old. New rear extension with roof lights. Water came through ceiling light this weekend and I took pictures shown. Looks like builder didn’t lay EPDM up to lantern correctly. I worry that the wood behind is moist and covered in old adhesive stuck there. Builder awol. Sent pictures to a roofer who said only thing that will take is cutting EPDM back 100mm and laying felt fascia onto the wood with bitumen. That’s ‘only thing wood would take’. More mastic would just come away. Instinctively didn’t think felt and EPDM went together but I’m not a pro. And advice much appreciated… IMG_5114.mov

Pretty sure the blue and red pipes are cold and hot water pipes

I know. Breaks my heart

Thanks for this - yes we can often hear some water hammer in the pipes above the kitchen ceiling for the bathroom up there - but they're now covered. Can this be remedied without pulling floors up??

Finished major renovation on a Victorian semi. These pictures show the mains water pipe (new in blue and attached to new copper piping) and some of the new copper piping under the ground floor. Photos taken from stairs into cellar - so these are the lowest pipes in the house. Some are in 'hangers' - but some look to be unsupported - especially longer copper pipes. Is this ok? Or is this a very lazy builder causing me issues later down the track? Any help much appreciated.

Thanks for the feedback. Hmm. I better get this sorted. Haven't treated the wood with anything because I heard cedar goes a natural silver colour and doesn't need chemical treatment. Is that correct?

Have recently had this garden office built. I bought the cedar cladding but wondering if builder's installed it correctly. When it rains, water seems to absorb up the bottom of the cladding. Should I worry about this? Maybe water isn't an issue with cedar but might this lead to the wood rotting? Should there have been a gap between the limestone paving and the cladding - like an expansion gap? Or a gap to stop the water soaking directly into the wood? I've also noted some black spots on the brise-soleil slats (Siberian larch) - is this an issue? Many thanks for any help/advice.

Yes - both switch and build are LED dimmable compatible

OK - TLC Direct - here I come for a Knightsbridge refund! Shame - I liked their matt finish. But meaningless if they don’t work.

One faceplate controlling 2 x circuits yes. Could well be poor wiring. I’ll change bulbs to see if it’s the dimmer

Recently done a huge refurbishment of our Victorian semi and builder has done the electrics (could be the issue right there)! We’ve put a lot of dimmer modules in from TLC https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/SF2182MW.html and the builder has put 2 gang 2 way dimmer modules into rooms that only control the pendent/wall light with one switch. We have Astro and Pooky light fittings and they flicker. 90% of the pendant LED bulbs flicker and in some cases even blow. Builder says dimmer modules just make lights flicker! We’re using a lot of these pendant kits with the dimmer module above: https://www.pooky.com/products/classic-pendant-light-kit-in-antiqued-brass?gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI2NLrzs_EgwMVQ_N3Ch3GKALLEAQYASABEgKKKvD_BwE We’ve tried about 3 x variants of LED bulbs and they still flicker. Interestingly on the ground floor we’re using G&H modules and they have worked without flickering bulbs: https://socketstore.co.uk/product/flat-polished-brass-unlacquered-led-dimmer-3-gang-419434 Any ideas what on earth might be going on - we’re at our wits end!!!????

Thanks so much for this. Excuse my ignorance but do you mean just spray a foam around the clip? What sort of foam? Many thanks

I think I've made a boob by using the Gypframe MF9 Connecting Clips instead of screwing the MF5 to the MF7 beams. It means whenever I open my son's room door, the ceiling squeaks! See attached video with sound. Hard to use screws now because I don't have access from below because the new ceiling is in place. Can anyone think of a work around? Some rubber between clip and metal MF7 baton? Any help hugely appreciated. Think this is the issue https://youtu.be/hhX4n7RT8Uo?feature=shared MF9 clip 2.mov

I think I should have used wafer head jack-point screws to connect the MF5 bars to the MF7 bars as in the video link here. https://youtu.be/hhX4n7RT8Uo?feature=shared I used Gypframe MF9 Connecting Clips and when you walk on the floor above, or open and close the door, the ceiling squeaks a lot! Anyone else had an issue with this and know of a solution. I can't easily use screws now the ceiling below is up. Can I screw them in from above? Or use some rubber insulation between the clips and the MF7? Many thanks MF9 clip 2.mov