athlonoc

The running of just the WC was for balancing purposes. I wasn't sure if I should balance one at a time with the other loops off. I'm not running a schedule for heating, no. It was a theory that you have now answered, in that it doesn't need to be done like that. I should have all loops flowing.

Thank you Simon

Thank you. Trying not to obsess about this but I noticed the WC was taking ages to get warm. So thought it wouldn't harm to balance the system. I guess it will be impossible to get all to sit at DT 5 without spending hours if not days messing around. Just for knowledge:- If I did want to balance say the Cloakroom. Should I only have that loop calling for heat? Would the overall Flow and Return of that loop get affected if I allowed the other 6 loops to heat up at the same time as balancing that single loop ( my Cloakroom )?

My UFH system has 7 flow and returns and I'm trying to balance the system. I've bought two Testo 115I thermometers for flow and return measurements. It appears well documented to try and get a Delta T of 5 degrees and I can mange this on the 3 smaller loops. The two larger loops being my kitchen and lounge both have two flow and returns circuits. Unfortunately I have no idea of their length. I can't get my flow valves to allow more than 2l/m as I believe I would need to do this, to achieve a lower Delta T of 5. Its currently between 7 and 8 The flow meters which are now fully unscrewed tight, will not allow a drop greater than 2l/m Is it possible that the circuit pump for the UFH needs to be increased? Will this help

Hi Nick, Thanks for the idea, that sounds like a plan.

Hi, After a couple of years using these two in combination I've since been informed I should consider the lifespan of my batteries by lowering the amp in the settings menu. I have 2 x 5kW Hybrid Puredrive II batteries. They have maximum 100A in which it states that's it's optimal rate. But do I need it set so high? I suppose if I want maximum charge or discharge over a small time then maybe, but would it be more beneficial to set the charge rate to a lower amps setting? As I charge my batteries overnight between the hours of 12:30 am and 5:30am I guess it would be better to charge during that whole period and use a lower Amp setting. It currently has a DOC of 15% so I only ever charge 85% to get to maximum 100%. It's normally done in just over two hours but isn't it putting too much continuous stress on doing it that fast. What settings do others use to preserve the life of their batteries or am I barking up the unnecessary tree? If I have 5 hours to charge say 85% of a 5kW battery then I guess I could set this much lower?

Update: The response from Heatmiser is one of RF signal issues. They has suggested that if the batteries went low in one or more neostats, then it might be it activated the failsafe on the stat. They state that every hour it will run for 12 mins to push warm water around the system if it doesn't receive 2 RF signals after two attempts. It all makes sense, but of course what they couldn't confirm is where the warm water is coming from. Would it be possible that warmth ( the radiators were not very warm or hot, just warm ) came from heat in the pipes and or the header tank? Any thoughts, just for an understanding. So far 3 full days without the problem. Heatmiser also suggested that by turning off failsafe which is what I have done to alleviate the issue, might want to strengthen the RF signal with a boost box or boost plug.

Oh, ok. So if the switch is on as in the 2nd photo, but the ASHP hasn't fired up as in the 3rd photo, but the pump is pumping warm water around, how can that be? Time for a heating engineer to problem solve. I've spend a fortune on this 2 year old system in my new build as it's been nothing but problematic. I've had 2 separate heating engineers round for example to solve the system pressure as it needed topping up every 3 or 4 weeks, which went on for a year or more. No one spotted the leak at one of the pumps and a leak outside by the filter drain. The company that installed went bust. My faith comes from looking at these problems myself and using these amazing forums. So if I can I'd like to understand and solve myself. Is it therefore possible that the switch is faulty and something other than the stat is turning it on to warm the radiators? If so why doesn't the ASHP come on?

All these stats were installed in this new build and I had no input. 5 stats for 5 zones for the UFH and 1 stat for the rads upstairs. Yes there is a 51l buffer in the loft along with the Ecodan controller box and the HW cylinder. I'm not sure but would suggest it's downstream of the 3 port diverter. I'll go and check and thank you for this. If the diverter port is leaking, would I usually see the switch for the upstairs Central Heating light up? Is it not just the stat upstairs that controls all the rads that would switch that on, even though the stat was calling for heat?

Hi again, Update with a problem. So I didn't bother with UH8 after all. I powered down everything connected to the central heating system. Ecodan unit, UH8, stats, Heatmiser Neohub. Then after a few hours I powered up and repaired everything and it seemed to go ok. All stats paired fine with Switch and the UH8. The Neohub connected to all stats and could control the rise and fall in heat. The HW came on and off in accordance with its schedule. Now after about 6 days of seemingly all being good, I noticed the radiators on the first floor were warm. The noise associated with pumping the flow around the system was running. However, the stats were not calling for heat and the control panel didn't have the compressor symbol lit and after checking the ASHP unit, it wasn't running. So it appears the system was pushing warm water to the radiators ( not the UFH downstairs ), despite it not being heated by the ASHP. So how could this happen? Is the HW tank sending warm water to the upstairs rads? I noticed the the Heatmiser switch, was lit up ( boiler and CH1 ) - but not HW light. I've reached the end of my ability to solve and wondered what my be at fault / causing the system to pump warm water from somewhere to the rads without ASHP running and no stats requesting heat? Thanks Lee

Thanks Mike, I'm going to assume that no interference from neighbours as I live in a well spaced out area with 8 other houses and all have the same setup. No one else is having this issue and mine has been fine up to this recent point where I had a batter icon on two stats and then noticed things with the system were running when not called for. I think might order a new UH8 centre and then see if the problem still exists. As with so much it will be a process of elimination.

Hi, I’m looking for some help / advice to see if there is anything further, I can do. My property is a newbuild of 2 years and was fitted with the following UH8-RF V2 wiring centre 5 NeoAir v3 stats Connected to Mitsubishi ASHP heating system. All has been fine until the last few days where I noticed I could hear the system was pumping water around and at times, I could see the ASHP was running. At the same time I noticed the Wiring Centre UH8 was lit up on a specific zone. When I checked the stats I noticed two of them had battery warning icons up. So, I simply replaced the batteries expecting this to solve the problem. However, things started to go downhill from here. It became obvious that the pairing was no longer right as I was not able to call for heat with all the stats ( testing purposes ). All stats would have a flame but not all the lights on the UH8 would lights up. So, I reset all five zones after powering down the UH8. I was able to pair successfully 4 of the 5 zones but one wouldn’t pair. So, I used a spare stat to see if that could pair, which eventually it did after several attempts, but then I noticed one or two of the other zones would no longer call for heat. I then used one of the three spare zones on the UH8 in case zone 5 had developed a fault. I’m now experiencing intermittent control, when calling for heat. I can manually push any of the zone buttons on the UH8 and they light up. I have now on three occasions, powered down the UH8, reset the master RF button so it flashes quickly. Then reset all 8 zones so they all flash quickly, then one by one repaired with my 5 Neoair stats. In the past when setting up it worked fine and always paired within 5 to 10 seconds, and all would call for heat. I have replaced all batteries in the stats. I have reset all the stats. I have reset the zones on the UH8 But I am left with some of the zones not lighting up when the stat is calling for heat. My questions are: Is there anything further I could try? Is it possible that the RF communication device on the UH8 is now faulty, or the UH8 wiring centre in total. No other RF or Wifi devices have recently been installed that might interfere. Certainly not for over a year and everything was working fine until the battery symbol on a couple of the stats were showing and the flow pump in the loft could be heard running. I’d be very grateful for some expert advice.

I'm not aware that the FTC6 shows pressure but I could be wrong. Skipping through the menu I never came across it. My system is in the loft and I left the engineer to it. So I couldn't comment but I'd like to think he did it this way.

Well, the engineer did say the pressure in the expansion vessel was low and has re-pressurised it. So I will find out tomorrow morning. On that point, has anyone used a Bluetooth pressure sensor over the valve, so you can check instantly on an app and even get alerted when it drops below a certain level. As the valves are the same as those on cars, would a permanent pressure reading cap work?

Well, in terms of a programmer, I have set just the hot water on a timer. Twice a day, 3pm and 3am. The 3am kicks in when we are in a deep sleep and this doesn't wake us up. It's no problem changing just the stats. It does the same thing. Its controllable via the Heatmiser App so all 6 stats can be changed in a matter of seconds. The FTC6 controller is where I have programmed the HW and know I could program the CH that way too. My big issue was not being able to leave it on, while using weather compensation and forgetting it. The noise just prevents this from happening. We still get a COP of over 3 which I'm more than happy with. I have topped it up many times using the fill loop. However, its only recently that I have noticed this first thing in the morning. Since it gets up to pressure within 15 to 20 minutes I now leave it alone and no longer repressure it. I'm convinced none of this should be happening. Maybe once a year check the pressure and fill as required but not every day in the morning. Any explanation why its zero when its not been on for a few hours and then pressurises itself when the system is up and running? Also is it being suggested I keep topping up every morning to 1 bar until the day comes when the system doesn't need doing in the morning. If I keep topping it up, does this cause any issues if it gets to pressure when the system is running? There doesn't appear to be any air in the system. The two bleed valves in my original picture at the manifolds have no air. The valves in the loft of which there are about 9 dont let any air out.