athlonoc

I'm not aware that the FTC6 shows pressure but I could be wrong. Skipping through the menu I never came across it. My system is in the loft and I left the engineer to it. So I couldn't comment but I'd like to think he did it this way.

Well, the engineer did say the pressure in the expansion vessel was low and has re-pressurised it. So I will find out tomorrow morning. On that point, has anyone used a Bluetooth pressure sensor over the valve, so you can check instantly on an app and even get alerted when it drops below a certain level. As the valves are the same as those on cars, would a permanent pressure reading cap work?

Well, in terms of a programmer, I have set just the hot water on a timer. Twice a day, 3pm and 3am. The 3am kicks in when we are in a deep sleep and this doesn't wake us up. It's no problem changing just the stats. It does the same thing. Its controllable via the Heatmiser App so all 6 stats can be changed in a matter of seconds. The FTC6 controller is where I have programmed the HW and know I could program the CH that way too. My big issue was not being able to leave it on, while using weather compensation and forgetting it. The noise just prevents this from happening. We still get a COP of over 3 which I'm more than happy with. I have topped it up many times using the fill loop. However, its only recently that I have noticed this first thing in the morning. Since it gets up to pressure within 15 to 20 minutes I now leave it alone and no longer repressure it. I'm convinced none of this should be happening. Maybe once a year check the pressure and fill as required but not every day in the morning. Any explanation why its zero when its not been on for a few hours and then pressurises itself when the system is up and running? Also is it being suggested I keep topping up every morning to 1 bar until the day comes when the system doesn't need doing in the morning. If I keep topping it up, does this cause any issues if it gets to pressure when the system is running? There doesn't appear to be any air in the system. The two bleed valves in my original picture at the manifolds have no air. The valves in the loft of which there are about 9 dont let any air out.

As a side issue which wasn't dealt with by the service engineer due to time restrictions. Due to water flow noise in our system we have decided to turn off our heating when we go to bed at night as the noise stops us sleeping. Its been two years of poor sleep. We just turn the stats down a few degrees to ensure it doesn't call for heat. This is not the way in which we should or want to run our ASHP fuelled central heating. What I do notice other than it takes much longer to get the house to temperature 😠, is the pressure gauge every morning reads zero. Then after 20 minutes or so after the house calls for and starts flowing heat around the pipes the pressure goes up to the set bar of between 1 and 1.5bar. Is it normal for a pressured system like this to drop to zero overnight, then go up when the system kicks in?

There is a circulating pump in the loft. The rooms get warm enough, so technically I guess it's working correctly. Is there any value in just removing the actuators so the heat flow continues and then I would see if the colder elements of the pipe work do in fact warm up? I bought a thermal camera to highlight to my builder there were some issues and by chance I noticed the larger heating runs had cold areas, where I guess I was to assume the pipework would all heat up.

All 5 zones are now calling for heat and on

I have just had my Heating System serviced and asked the question about flow through my UFH I have attached two images showing the flow is not making it around the complete circuit and I have no idea why. Its a two year old system, run by a Mitsubushi Ecodan 8.5kW ASHP. I have 5 zones downstairs ( Hall, WC, Utility, Lounge, Kitchen ) and both the kitchen and lounge have what looks like two separate pipe feeds. My thermal image for the lounge shows even after the heat is pumped into the pipes for over 6 hours it still doesn't manage to flow all the way. The two blue coloured pipes in my thermal images as expected are cold but the two behind it for the lounge are warm. The heating engineer said I should try and run it with the actuators off. I'm advised that this will render the wall thermostats non operational and the flow will just continue. He also states that this will highlight if the actuator is working. Does this sound right? I also have a dense green solution dripping from both the large valves on the left in the non thermal images. It's not a constant drip, but I wiped the floor about 3 months ago and the leakage is there again. Before I fork out to get them back on a fault finding mission does anyone have any thoughts on what might be happening?

I know this is an old thread, but after looking at temperature discrepancy issues between my old slimline v2 stats and my new replacement NeoAir V3 stats, they look very much like those as above which Ultima357 suggested Heatmiser should use. It's now 2024 but maybe he had something...... I hope they thanked you Ultima357 as it appears they listened to you?

Can anyone see how to select or more tot the point know which channel my UH8-RF V2 is using? Also what are the zone switches for? I can see they are all set to 3. The others which I don't use are set to 1

Thanks for your reply. Picture attached.

I am replacing Slimline stats for NeoAir for app control. I have the UH8-RF V2 for controlling the UFH in 5 zones. Installations states you must find the Channel by looking for the two dials by which the Channel is set. I'm unable to see these anywhere inside the UH8. So taking a guess at it being one of the 99 channels, the manual states you should select the same Channel in the stat. Power - then Setup - then arrow down to P2 ( UFH control ) I can't get it to pair at all and as of yet not tried all the 99 channels. Is there a way to know what channel the UH8-RF V2 is set at where there are no black dials? Thank you Lee

Does anyone know if the Slimline V2 thermostats are capable of being seen by Home Assistant to monitor room temperatures. Not sure if I need to upgrade to the Neo stats or not?

Hi Beelbeebub, Well spotted and thank you. I have now informed them that what they left me with and to be honest it's a schoolboy error on their behalf.

I hope these are the three you mentioned. FTC - Main Control Panel - Isolator switch for ASHP? Thanks - report back once done

Also forgot to mention that when it started doing this again 2 days ago, the radiators were luke warm. I only noticed this as I got my towel from the towel radiator and noticed it then! Does this point to something. My controller also constantly shows the play symbol on the hot water, which indicates it permanently trying to heat the water to 48. It's as though it hasn't finished it's attempt to heat to 48. Is there a way to stop it from doing this?