athlonoc

Thank you both. Give these some thought and looking into. Simple answer is there is nothing within the Ecodan but there are work arounds

Installing a UPS so the power interruption doesn't cause this to happen. As it seems there isn't anything I can alter in my Ecodan system, then it's either put up with or install UPS. Bit of a shame unless anyone knows any different.

This is what I found printed on the Ecodan Installation Manual, under troubleshooting 25. The FTC unit that was running in the heating mode before power failure is running in the DHW mode after power recovery. The FTC unit is designed to run in an operation mode with a higher priority (i.e. DHW mode in this case) at power recovery. • Normal operation. • After the DHW max. operation time has elapsed or the DHW max. temperature has been reached, the DHW mode switches to the other mode (ex. Heating mode). This would suggest this is how the Ecodan system operates and I can't find a way to turn it off, to prevent my situation happening. Last year we had 6 power cuts in our area. It's not a problem in the warmer months when the Heating isn't on.

This is what I found printed on the Ecodan Installation Manual, under troubleshooting 25. The FTC unit that was running in the heating mode before power failure is running in the DHW mode after power recovery. The FTC unit is designed to run in an operation mode with a higher priority (i.e. DHW mode in this case) at power recovery. • Normal operation. • After the DHW max. operation time has elapsed or the DHW max. temperature has been reached, the DHW mode switches to the other mode (ex. Heating mode). This would suggest this is how the Ecodan system operates and I can't find a way to turn it off, to prevent my situation happening. Last year we had 6 power cuts in our area. It's not a problem in the warmer months when the Heating isn't on.

I get several power cuts every year and when that happens, I've learned to understand the system automatically overrides to heat up the HW cylinder. In my scenario I have my HW set to 3am and 3pm scheduled heat. Set to 48 with a drop of 8 This work well for me and with my solar array and batteries it's become the most efficient way to keep HW in my house 24/7 The problem or situation I have encountered today. The power went off for a few seconds then straight back on. This defaulted to heat up the HW cylinder as it always does, but since changing the heat method to scheduled, it wasn't heating up the tank. I am assuming it's then waiting for the time of the schedule to kick in. As we are going through a cold snap and my CH is on all the time set to a specific temperature, it's caused a problem. The HW schedule stops the HW Cylinder from heating it, but it means that the CH isn't on as it's waiting for the HW cycle to complete. Is there a way to stop the forced reheat of the HW Cylinder with this system. If I wasn't at home to witness the power cut, then my CH would not be on for the duration of time until the HW schedule kicks in. Hope this is clear and makes sense. Thank you

The running of just the WC was for balancing purposes. I wasn't sure if I should balance one at a time with the other loops off. I'm not running a schedule for heating, no. It was a theory that you have now answered, in that it doesn't need to be done like that. I should have all loops flowing.

Thank you Simon

Thank you. Trying not to obsess about this but I noticed the WC was taking ages to get warm. So thought it wouldn't harm to balance the system. I guess it will be impossible to get all to sit at DT 5 without spending hours if not days messing around. Just for knowledge:- If I did want to balance say the Cloakroom. Should I only have that loop calling for heat? Would the overall Flow and Return of that loop get affected if I allowed the other 6 loops to heat up at the same time as balancing that single loop ( my Cloakroom )?

My UFH system has 7 flow and returns and I'm trying to balance the system. I've bought two Testo 115I thermometers for flow and return measurements. It appears well documented to try and get a Delta T of 5 degrees and I can mange this on the 3 smaller loops. The two larger loops being my kitchen and lounge both have two flow and returns circuits. Unfortunately I have no idea of their length. I can't get my flow valves to allow more than 2l/m as I believe I would need to do this, to achieve a lower Delta T of 5. Its currently between 7 and 8 The flow meters which are now fully unscrewed tight, will not allow a drop greater than 2l/m Is it possible that the circuit pump for the UFH needs to be increased? Will this help

Hi Nick, Thanks for the idea, that sounds like a plan.

Hi, After a couple of years using these two in combination I've since been informed I should consider the lifespan of my batteries by lowering the amp in the settings menu. I have 2 x 5kW Hybrid Puredrive II batteries. They have maximum 100A in which it states that's it's optimal rate. But do I need it set so high? I suppose if I want maximum charge or discharge over a small time then maybe, but would it be more beneficial to set the charge rate to a lower amps setting? As I charge my batteries overnight between the hours of 12:30 am and 5:30am I guess it would be better to charge during that whole period and use a lower Amp setting. It currently has a DOC of 15% so I only ever charge 85% to get to maximum 100%. It's normally done in just over two hours but isn't it putting too much continuous stress on doing it that fast. What settings do others use to preserve the life of their batteries or am I barking up the unnecessary tree? If I have 5 hours to charge say 85% of a 5kW battery then I guess I could set this much lower?

Update: The response from Heatmiser is one of RF signal issues. They has suggested that if the batteries went low in one or more neostats, then it might be it activated the failsafe on the stat. They state that every hour it will run for 12 mins to push warm water around the system if it doesn't receive 2 RF signals after two attempts. It all makes sense, but of course what they couldn't confirm is where the warm water is coming from. Would it be possible that warmth ( the radiators were not very warm or hot, just warm ) came from heat in the pipes and or the header tank? Any thoughts, just for an understanding. So far 3 full days without the problem. Heatmiser also suggested that by turning off failsafe which is what I have done to alleviate the issue, might want to strengthen the RF signal with a boost box or boost plug.

Oh, ok. So if the switch is on as in the 2nd photo, but the ASHP hasn't fired up as in the 3rd photo, but the pump is pumping warm water around, how can that be? Time for a heating engineer to problem solve. I've spend a fortune on this 2 year old system in my new build as it's been nothing but problematic. I've had 2 separate heating engineers round for example to solve the system pressure as it needed topping up every 3 or 4 weeks, which went on for a year or more. No one spotted the leak at one of the pumps and a leak outside by the filter drain. The company that installed went bust. My faith comes from looking at these problems myself and using these amazing forums. So if I can I'd like to understand and solve myself. Is it therefore possible that the switch is faulty and something other than the stat is turning it on to warm the radiators? If so why doesn't the ASHP come on?

All these stats were installed in this new build and I had no input. 5 stats for 5 zones for the UFH and 1 stat for the rads upstairs. Yes there is a 51l buffer in the loft along with the Ecodan controller box and the HW cylinder. I'm not sure but would suggest it's downstream of the 3 port diverter. I'll go and check and thank you for this. If the diverter port is leaking, would I usually see the switch for the upstairs Central Heating light up? Is it not just the stat upstairs that controls all the rads that would switch that on, even though the stat was calling for heat?

Hi again, Update with a problem. So I didn't bother with UH8 after all. I powered down everything connected to the central heating system. Ecodan unit, UH8, stats, Heatmiser Neohub. Then after a few hours I powered up and repaired everything and it seemed to go ok. All stats paired fine with Switch and the UH8. The Neohub connected to all stats and could control the rise and fall in heat. The HW came on and off in accordance with its schedule. Now after about 6 days of seemingly all being good, I noticed the radiators on the first floor were warm. The noise associated with pumping the flow around the system was running. However, the stats were not calling for heat and the control panel didn't have the compressor symbol lit and after checking the ASHP unit, it wasn't running. So it appears the system was pushing warm water to the radiators ( not the UFH downstairs ), despite it not being heated by the ASHP. So how could this happen? Is the HW tank sending warm water to the upstairs rads? I noticed the the Heatmiser switch, was lit up ( boiler and CH1 ) - but not HW light. I've reached the end of my ability to solve and wondered what my be at fault / causing the system to pump warm water from somewhere to the rads without ASHP running and no stats requesting heat? Thanks Lee