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jugglesm

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Everything posted by jugglesm

  1. thanks redbeard, that might work well if I keep the noggins slightly shy of the joist tops
  2. thanks all, @Alan Ambrose the plan is to install directly into wood as this gives us more flexibility over where to locate them vs the steels. I have just spoken to GS products, who say (quite reasonably) that they don't give any working load limit for bolts with wood threads as the strength is dependant on the quality and type of wood. That being said I feel that a higher diameter wood thread (12mm vs the 10mm I used before) should give a stronger fixing.
  3. ... thanks, but ss would work? and they are not prohibitively expensive!
  4. Thanks Redbeard, I think the one's I've used previously are galved and they have started to flake/corrode where I have clipped carabiners to them. That's why I was looking at stainless steel. Worthwhile do you think?
  5. Hi all, I hope I'm posting in the right forum. I've previously installed 10mm pigs' tail coach screws into joists above the living room to allow my kids to install gymnastics hang bar, gym rings etc. They always seemed a little undersized to me and we are currently having an extension built so I'd like to find something a little more robust. There is plenty of steel in the ceiling but the builder thinks it would be simpler and cheaper to go direct into wood or noggins. Would something like this fit the bill? https://www.gsproducts.co.uk/12x120mm-stainless-steel-wood-screw-lag-thread-eye-bolts/?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAnKi8BhB0EiwA58DA4SvrehqGzBiX2TPYUsIkmvemADj85wqrwjobGKr0DVPDyM2cGcwdyxoCJkYQAvD_BwE Or is there another option I should be considering? Thanks in advance for any help
  6. Hi all, we would like solid surface window sills throughout our new house so I'm looking for a UK supplier of full sheets of either Corian/Staron/Hi-Macs/KRION/Hanex etc. I've had a good look on Google/ebay etc but can only find offcuts. Thanks for any advice..
  7. thanks, interested in any more advice on this particularly specific to cement fibre boards
  8. Hi all, I'm just finishing off the stud wall for my first ever wet room. I'm using 12mm STS construction board and hoping to construct an alcove within the stud to house showergel/shampoo bottles. Couple of questions: 1) Can I just butt STS at 90 degree angles to create my inside and outside corners? or do I need some form of angle bead? 2) Should I just tank the floor joints or do I need to waterproof the cement fibre boards floor to ceiling? if so what product should I use and is taping joints necessary? Many thanks for any help
  9. Hiall , my electrician is installing a QF100SX50P Manrose Quiet Fan X5 and an isolation switch in a new en suite. This will be wired on the bathroom lighting circuit (6242Y Grey 1mm² Twin & Earth Cable) but not affected by the bathroom light switch. I'd like him to add a time delay button, which we can press to turn the vent on for a set amount of time. Would this work with my 2-wire system? https://shop4electrical.co.uk/time-delay-switches/10234-elkay-350b-1-standard-push-button-timer-white-2-wire-master-10a-all-load-types-5016947010717 Thanks for any help
  10. Hi all, I'm preparing to install a new floating floor on top of an uninsulated concrete slab (which already has a DPM). I was intending to lay 100mm Kingspan then 18mm chipboard with engineered wood flooring on top. But this Kingspan guide LINK says I also need to install treated timber battens flush with the insulation at high pressure points (i.e. doorways) and a >250 micron polythene 'slip-sheet' in between the insulation and chipboard. A couple of questions: 1) The room will be a bedroom/en suite, are battens really necessary to prevent the Kingspan being crushed? Is this required by building regs? 2) Since I already have a DPM in place what is the reason for the polythene slip sheet? Many thanks for any help
  11. Thanks all, very useful. I'm laying all the wires in the annexe and then they are being 'second fixed' by an electrician and signed off for building regs. Would the above suggestions meet building regs? Doesn't putting the wiring for the towel rail in a horizontal chase breach building regs? or is a horizontal chase from a socket okay?
  12. I'm midway through refurbishing a one storey garage bedroom/annexe. The original plan was for the zone to be heated by radiators, including a wet towel rail in the shower en suite. This has now changed to wet UFH and an electric only towel rail. My problem is that all the wiring for the mains, shower, vent, lighting, toothbrush charger etc has already been chased and run through the cold flat-roof (now covered with PIR, tape, VCL and plasteboard). The mains in this room comprises 6 double sockets on 2.5mm cable running direct from the fuse box. It is a daisy chain not a ring. Can I power the towel rail with a spur off one of the double sockets? This would be convenient as one of the sockets is around 20cm horizontally from a not yet build stud wall partition on which the towel rail could be installed. I also have 10mm cable for the shower in the same stud wall. thanks in advance for any help or advice
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