Gabe

Hoping someone can help with this query. We've recently had porcelain floor tiles laid in our new kitchen and extension on screed (some existing, some new). The tiles have been down about 5 weeks. I'm aware that I should bring the floor temperature up gradually over a week or two and then reduce it gradually, to avoid thermal shock. Is it OK to do this by heating the relevant zones for shortish periods (say a couple of hours at a time) at normal flow temperature (about 40c) followed by turning the zones off to allow the screed and tiles to cool down, as opposed to turning the c/h boiler down to 30c and then moving up in increments? I'm keen to avoid the latter because the rest of the house will be uncomfortably cold. My thinking is that if it's only on for a short period the floor temperature won't get high too quickly. Would appreciate any thoughts on the matter. Thanks.

Thank you. If a thermally broken lintel is equivalent to triple glazing as opposed to double, is it an unnecessary expense if the sliding doors themselves are only double glazed?

We're about to extend our kitchen and install two sets of double lift-and-slide patio doors. One set will be 2000mm high x 2850mm wide, and the other set will be 2300mm high x 3450mm wide. One set will be installed in a newly formed opening in the existing structure of the house, and the other will be in the single storey extension. The overall u-value of each set will be 1.3. I'm trying to decide whether it's worth paying the not insignificant premium for thermally broken lintels instead of the cheaper traditional type. The new extension will have a 150mm cavity, and I believe the existing structure is only 100mm. The house was built about 20 years ago. Any thoughts on whether there would be an appreciable difference in comfort levels, or whether we would avoid condensation issues, by opting for the thermally broken lintels, or whether it's a waste of money? Thanks.

We have a defunct hole-in-wall gas fire in our lounge that we want to remove, and create an alcove in its place - i.e. we no longer want a gas fire. My question is what to do with the existing flue - it goes up between two internal walls, through the loft, and vents out of the roof ridge. Can we simply seal it off at the bottom? Thanks.

We've recently moved into into an 18 year old house with a Velta UFH system (downstairs and upstairs), and with a newly installed Greenstar 8000 system boiler. I'm trying to get my head around how the UFH operates and how I can control it effectively, having come from a traditional radiator based system. I have the original Velta user documentation from the install, but am trying to find the installation manual for the Veltamat 3D controller so I can understand the options available on each of the parameters, and how to set them. Does anyone happen to have a PDF of the English version of the document that they'd be willing to share, as the link on Uponor's website is missing? Thanks in advance.