dscoll

I presume you mean something like this vid. His first (bodge) suggestion is obviously doable , and he makes the "proper" fix look easy enough, but im not sure its as easy as he suggests. Anyway im thinking about it, I may give it a go if there is nothing simpler.

I've tried a reciprocating saw. It wasn't up to the job.

I've never seem one of them before! Looks like it might work, except I don't have one, I'll ask around and see if I can borrow one.

I've got a multitool but I don't think it's powerful enough to cut that amount of fresh wood. It might work eventually but I think i'd need to blunt several blades

Has anyone got any tips on how to remove an 18inch tree stump which has grown round a pvc coated chain link fence. I've tried a wood splitter but the stump is fresh so it didn't work. I can't use a chainsaw for fear of damaging the chain on the embedded wire. Any suggestions welcome.

Thanks for the link, i'll give them a ring on Monday.

Hi all I'm trying to replace a concrete end post on a diamond chain link fence, see attached photos. Problem is I can't find a supplier for the angled support post, in fact I can't find any mention of anything similar on the web Does anyone know : 1 The proper name for what i've called he angled support post 2 More importantly, where I can buy a couple for delivery to North London.

I've finally worked out how the mechanism works. It isn't quick release, what holds the vertical metal post to the horizontal metal rod is a grub screw, picture attached, the reason it fell apart when I cut the head off the bolt is the grub screw fell out. It's very difficult to see the size of the grub screw, I had already tried a 2.5mm allen key which was too small and a 3mm allen key was too big, so I thought it was riveted. I've just been through my socket set and found that a size 10 star shaped fits. Why would anyone create a star shaped grub screw? Anyway that's it, thanks for all the help and for not slagging me off when I really deserved it.

I'd certainly agree with that. When I finally got the seat off the quick release mechanism simply fell apart, but while it was attached to the toilet there was no way I could get it to work.

I don't have a dremel, so I tried my multitool and blunted the blade. I then tried to cut though the round metal base with tin snips , no chance with that. I then managed to get a hacksaw under the round metal plate and after about 15 minutes I finally cut the head off the bolt. Thanks for the suggestion

First a confession, I can get round the back, it's just very difficult as the toilet is in a confined space and i'm an idiot, apologies for the confusion. Since I had no other options I unscrewed the screw on the good side ,which i'd been avoiding doing, and got the lid off that way, but the wing nut fell down the back somewhere and it's lost, is this a comedy? , anyway this could easily be replaced. I wedged something under plate on the bad side as suggested by TennentsLager but the screw won't budge and i'm beginning to damage the head, also it's really difficult to get round the back on that side as it's right next to the wall, so I think i'm going to have to cut the screw off (though i'm not sure how as it's very close to the plate) and buy a new quick release seat. Thanks for all your help

A bit more info. If you look at the pictures: 1) The horizontal metal rod is loosely attached to the top end of the vertical metal post ,so it looks like it should be quick release, but i've pushed, pulled, hammered, the joint moves but it doesn't separate. 2) The horizontal metal rod is solidly attached into the grey plastic tube 3) The bottom end of the vertical metal post goes into the round plate on the basin and the joint doesn't move 4) The grey plastic tube slides in and out of the toilet seat hinge, but not far enough to come out, it's about 1cm too long.

Pulled, wiggled, wiggled pulled, pulled and wiggled, swore a bit ,repeated previous steps, nothing.

Well I did think of cutting it off but that's a bit drastic and I hate the idea of conceding defeat to a chuffing toilet seat.

Thanks Conor. I presume you mean pull upwards? I tried, but it didn't work. I also tried every other direction but still no good.

Ok, thanks. Any idea how I get the seat off, as I can't get at the screw to apply upward pressure with it in place?

Thanks for the reply. The grey plastic tube is not on a spring. It does go into the pan seat (on both sides) but not far enough to lift the seat free, it's about 1cm to long.

Hi guys I've got a Rak Gilberet toilet circa 2013, with a loose seat that needs tightening. It's a top access seat cover, nothing underneath the basin. I've got 2 problems: 1) I can't get the toilet seat off - It's not quick release, and when I try to remove it ,it just slides left and right but not far enough so that it can be removed 2) I can't tighten (or loosen) the screw holding the seat to the basin as it just keeps turning, so even if i could get the seat off i don't think it would help. please see attached photos for details. Any suggestions welcome. Regards DS

The multitool cutter was no good, but I'd forgotten that it also has a sander attachment. That worked quite well, so i'm going to use that. Thanks for the suggestions.

@SteamyTeaI don't have an angle grinder. I do have a multitool with a wood cutting blade, i'll give that a go. I also have some pu adhesive which I could use if the other methods don't work.

@ProDave - I tried to plane the angle with a normal plane but because it's against the grain it just made a mess. I do have an electric plane but whenever i've tried to use it it's gone wrong. Anyway, i'll give it a try on a piece of scrap wood and report back.

@Mr Punter - That's a good idea, except i've already cut the wood and I have 4 cuts to make and not enough wood left. I have 2 of these frames to make, so I could use your method on the 2 x 300 pieces , as I have some off cuts left, but I would also need to cut 2 x 1500 pieces , which I don't have , so id need another trip to the timber yard.

@PeterW - Thanks for the suggestions. I've just tried cutting the top off B with a handsaw, as you suggested on a scrap piece of wood. It's not very easy as there's not enough wood to work with and he finished result wan't very good.

Hi I'm building a cold frame for the garden, and I have to join 50mm batton's together at a shallow angle, see attached drawing. How do I attach batton A to B without the frame being slightly twisted. It looks like I need a 45 x 3mm wedge but that doesn't look very easy to make as i'm just a diy'er. Is there a better/simpler solution?