Daniel C

Hi Everyone, We are getting on alright, photos are coming soon, pretty much done with destroying stuff and starting to build now. We have encountered a problem, during the heavy(er) rains we got some groundwater leaking in from the walls, 1 corner, 3 locations of the house. It seem like it leaks between the stoned, I am thinking just to raise the ground level a bit (the water just comes a few cm ups, and that all), then foil and 5-10 cm concrete on it. Any advise, better idea? I have considered: putting in pumps with barrels - do not want to run, service and rely on a pump digging down and putting in either plebes or pipes with holes to create path for water - it sounds like a lot of work an not sure if it would have a better affect than foil and concrete if we are just talking about a bit of water

Thank you, for free insulation, I have been told that I need to leave there for a minimum of 1 year. Scaffolding and removing slates sounds a bit extra work for now, but considered as an option. I was thinking to maybe use that area for storage but nothing more. I will put there ply wood floor, probably should insulate it before hand.

I am planning to remove all the floor boards and replace them, so I should be fine with space, but thank you for the advice.

Just managed to "model" the house, this is how the bottom floor looks like now:

As I just realised my loft has 0 insulation. I am wondering what do you think, which way (or any alternative) would the insulation would work the best: Green - Insulate the floor where there is no room and the sides of the room Red - insulate the roof The ceiling of the room will need to be insulated in both versions Loft photos:

So yeah, as I suggested, the walls are built the way like that, I do not know what that technique called. This is how I think I could insulate it: Questions: Do you think this is generally viable? On the photo below the nails are rusty, not sure if they require any treatment/replacement? 100mm PIR for wall, sounds good enough? Thickness suggestion for wallboard/plasterboard Thickness suggestions for wall vapour barrier? Update, These are the thickness for the regulation (0.3 Watts / m2K): EPS – 88.6mm thick Mineral Wool – 108.6mm thick PIR board – 65.7mm thick

Thanks @PeterStarck, I will do.

Arranged the design appointment when the measrung one, I will need to go in in about 10 days, will update on plans and prices then. Thank you. I will search for them, thought I give a general update and ask for any feedback

Realised some (probably) leak damage in one of the rooms, removed some of the horse hair plaster thingy and this is how the wall looks like behind it: There is no insulation at all, I hope there is a wood structure where I can put in some insulation, if there are not any I might need to build one, or go with alternative insulation methods like Lime plaster mixed with hemp directly to the granite wall. What do you guys think about this method, I got this suggested: Build a stud wall leaving an air gap between the external wall & any insulation. Use rigid rockwool batts, and finish off with a wood wool board

Got the keys today, hooray! I will upload plenty more images and plans on the existing and new posts. Today we just had the Kitchen furniture guys to come in and take some measurements (It was Wren kitchen, will see if we go with them or not, any feedback on them is appropriated) Structural engineer to come in and have a chat about wall removal Removed some floor boards to access the crawl space to take some photos Oh yeah and we found strawberries and raspberries (not ready yet) in the garden

So I should use 225mm if I want to go for 150mm, that might be an issue... I was even just looking at how poisonous/harmful the materials are and they said EPS is better. At the end it will come down on space and price I guess This is how the crawlspace looks like, sorry for the bad photos not really sure which angle would be the best for the crawls space, but it might give a bit of an insight:

I'm currently thinking to use EPS instead of PIR for floor insulation, is this a good or a bad idea?

It is about 30 cm, so not really, but I will remove all the floor joists, and put down new floor as ply wood, so I will be able to do what ever I want.

I should be able to post some photos of the crawls space next week, I am not sure if it would help in the decision or not. So right now, everyone agrees that I should install the vapour barrier on the bottom of the crawls space as well as below the UFH and screed? (sorry for keep repeating your answers, just want to make sure I understand it right)

@ProDave From the discussions from above, I pretty much draw the conclusion that there is essentially no point to put down vapour barrier if I insulate the floor and install UFH. What do you think? Correction: I am going to install the vapour barrier between the Ply wood and UFH.

Just remembered that there is a timber report which have been made before the property went on market. Regarding the heavy gauge vapor barrier: "Solum From the existing ground floor hatches, a visual inspection of the sub-floor area revealed the solum to be unsealed and significantly damp with one or two localised areas of ponding water caused by deeper sump pits having been formed for access points for services. This sub-floor dampness together with limited sub-floor ventilation creates conditions suitable for the germination and growth of wood rotting fungi and insect attacks such as are present. In view of these findings we would recommend that the solum be overlaid with our heavy gauge vapour barrier in order to prevent sub-floor evaporation and condensation further affecting ground floor timbers and with works being carried out as detailed in our attached schedule headed “Solum Schedule”. Note: Please note that our heavy gauge vapour barrier is designed to prevent sub-floor evaporation and condensation affecting flooring timbers, it is not designed to prevent flooding of the sub-floor area caused by any significant water ingress. Our vapour barrier will be finished with a layer of sand in order to hold this in position." I was going the leave the crawls space the way it is after your comments. Is the report section above changes that?

Thank you for all your replies @Ferdinand Discounts: I will look into the discount threads, I am sure they will be more then beneficial Venting: I will make sure to clear the vents, of course as soon as I start doing that I will post photos, and hopefully videos. Tagging: Tagging is done, thank you for explaining Wood and joists treatment: I was looking into treatment against wood worm, wet and dry root. I assume wood worm not even important if I keep the joist dry, but well. I guess I newer know. I assume I do not need to apply any treatment if I fully replace the joists, or at least on the replaced bits if I use C16 graded ones, or do I? I know I should threat them if I cut them. Do I need to threat the ply wood as well? I am planning to make a separate thread for the floor joists/treating, but maybe there is no point, just expand this one to make it easier to search for other users in the future. Floor: I will go for Ply not OSB I was gonna go for nails, I was looking to get these ones: TurboGold PZ Double Self-Countersunk Woodscrews 5 x 60mm 100 Pack for 18mm pl Tools: I was going to get a nail gun and a plunge saw, depending on if I use any other support for the insulation boards than the expanding foam. If I do not, I might won't need the nail gun just now. I got already some tools like reciprocating saw, jigsaw, corded and cordless drill from different brands and so on. Do you know anything about VanHouse brand, their tools seems quite cheap and they do not have bad reviews?

No worries. I mean to have just every say 2m across the joists. You are right, I would not want to build a second floor under the insulation. I am still trying to decide between running or dry screed for the UFH, I started to ask for quotes for a screed pump, and I may well end up cheaper to hire someone who can do the dry screed nicely, I do not think I would be able to do it nice and level.

I was just looking at their brochures and installation guides, It does not seem the best as they state minimum 75mm cavity, then they shaw a drawing for just 60mm... but they install it between brick wall and aerated block (I assume this is serves insulation purpose): I assume I need to seal the cavity from the roof and crawl space ends, am I right?

The joist are just around 130mm ( I will remeasure them next week with a caliper as I am not sure), although I still could put 20mm wood on them and then put some beams across to help pushing in the insulation boards, good idea @PeterW I will install UFH, it is on my drawing above. I am planning to use Scluther bekotec (water), any feedback on it?

I went for a walk (gorgeous weather even in Aberdeen) and bumped into a building site where I had a chat with a guy who was doing to walls for a granite house. He advised the following: granite wall, 10mm gap, 2L2, 10 mm gap, then put mineral wool on the inside and finish with plaster board etc. He said insulation boards tend to sweet and they are expensive compared to mineral wool, I am better of spending the difference on 2L2. Any suggestions?

Perfect, thank you. Yes I was going to go with your suggesting regarding the expanding foam as glue. I think I should be able to get 18mm ply for relatively, cheap will update on the price and quality when I manage to get them.

I will do the labour myself, or at least try... As you suggested in my other thread, I will try to go with minimum 150mm between the floor joists, my question is the thickness for the walls, should that be the same?

OK, I will go for 150mm minimum, maybe even 200mm. Few questions: Do I need to do anything with my joists, should I put insulation on them from above? I assume I leave the vents open and clear the way they meant to be, should not I? Do you agree on replacing floor board with ply wood? Is my drawing above seems alright?

So no Bauwer, OK Is PIR and VCL is the best option? If yes just a couple of questions: How thick PIR boards should I use? Does the crawls space insulation effect any decision here? Yeah, I would like, and maybe even must keep the granite look