TinRobot

Hi Ice I initially wanted that solution but I am really struggling to find a supplier who will render as well. The costs go through the roof. I live on the coast and the old walls are very exposed. In our small village we have some renders cracking etc. so I am not that confident (I am dipping into savings and this is a one shot at getting it "right" - I won't be able to afford fixing this stuff in 10yrs). The other issue with EWI is the I have a new flint wall coming off of one of the walls that needs insulating and the EWI hasn't been accounted for (I am not that impressed with architect). Constant panic trying to weigh everything up. Thanks again for the suggestion.

Thanks for the response. You're right of course on cost. My problem is two fold - first I am living here currently and it is freezing. We have no central heating and everything has been bodged or done on the cheap. Being half frozen isn't helping my fear that I am not insulating enough. The Kooltherm seems to have 0.019 thermal efficiency whereas standard PIR is 0.022 and normal wool slabs are at 0.32. I think I would prefer to spend the extra - it is just finding the best I can for the price. I just don't want a cold house that costs a fortune in electric to heat and 0.18 seems to be the min for building regs now so that would be ideal !

Thanks Nick. The current cavity insulation is suspected to be urea-formaldehyde foam. It is like dust and I cannot believe it is doing anything good. We have been told by a cavity insulation company that they can blow it out as they pump in the Superfill stuff. Originally they were going to put in Superfill 44 but I have asked them to use the better 34 product.

Hi folks - I have spent hours looking at different solutions to make my bungalow conversion as good as possible within some sort of budget. For the old existing walls (most north and east facing) I have come up with the following: 25mm x K Rend 100mm x Standard Brick 65mm x Blow in Knauff Superfill 34 CVI (this will blow out the nasty stuff in there currently) 100mm x Standard Block (0.15 W) 1mm x DuPont AirGuard Reflective VCL (was considering the 6mm superfoil but not sure if it makes any difference - could do with some advice on this one) 25mm x Baton - 600mm centres (to provide air gap) 57.5mm x Kingspan Kooltherm K118 Insulated Plaster Board 3mm x Plaster Total internal depth lost 86.5mm Does this sound a logical approach? I am like a rabbit in the headlights!

Hi Experts - Hope you can help with my next question. Very grateful for any advice. Our extension is having 100mm insulation batons put as per building regs. I think that will mean the extension walls will have a U value of 0.24 W /m2k. (?) My existing external walls are only 260 thick. 100mm Std Aircrete Block + 100mm Brick with 60mm cavity. We are looking at having Knauf Superfill 40 blown into the old walls (to blow out the now banned insulation in there which I don't think is doing anything). This should bring the U value to .38 W / m2k. I am then looking at installing 75mm savotherm laminated insulation board externally with render over the top of that. On my calcs that should provide a 0.21 W/m2k U value. After all that my question: Should I be adding a VCL on the internal wall (with 25mm baton before plasterboard) to combat any potential damp issues? Or have I got this totally wrong?

Hi All. I am renovating a 1960s very leaky bungalow and I need help to make it as warm as possible. I will break each element down into different threads if that is okay. Job 1 has to be the roof and insulation. The roof is being replaced and I will have an East, West and South Pitch. The North is a gable end. Currently I am thinking that TLX Gold will go on the roof. They offer to work out the U value I can achieve I think so will give them a call. For the ceiling I am thinking of 2 layers of 150mm Knauf insulation with a VCL fitted above. I was considering PIR but have worries about the gaps created for lights/cables etc. My questions: 1) Should I insulate the North gable wall in the loft (260mm) 2) How can I remove potential thermal bridging around the wall plate area? I have seen "trays" that provide a air gap into the loft. I am not sure how many of these you need (every 1200mm?) 3) With your expertise can you give me any other advice? Really appreciate any advice you can give.

Hi - As a intro, we have moved to the North Norfolk Coast and are trying to convert a 1960s bungalow with views over fields and 10 minutes walk from the beach, into a Norfolk Cottage with a ultra modern extension to the side and rear. We have got planning permission and have started work but I lack the skill to be able to ensure the fabric is as good as I can achieve. We have also built a SIP annex that will act as a workshop and Gym but having issues with building control. As the decision was made to preserve an old apple tree we pushed the structure within a meter of the boundary (not helped that I have put a new boundary fence up in front of our boundary due to neighbour issues). I will create a post about this as the BI is demanding master board etc which I think is massively overkill when we have tower blocks full of people in clad buildings! I hate inconsistency. My main concern will be trying to insulate the home. The roof is being replaced and the new extension will have 100mm celotex (or similar( in the cavity to ensure building regs. Hoping to put in triple glazed windows as well. New floor is 150mm celotex but the old footprint is just a concrete slab. The old walls are thin (260mm) and the cavity has been filled with powdery white stuff that I believe is now banned and has slumped. As we have no gas in the village I want to try and up the insulation, make it airtight and as warm as possible. Finally we intend to put a load of solar panels on the roof with battery. This will help run our EVs and the ASHP. The floor will have thin insulation and underfloor heating. All good fun and I hope the vast experience here will be able to point me in the right direction.