Capable Noob

Thanks everyone. They're 9" timbers (which are the bottom chord of attic trusses). It's 22mm Caberfloor. Funnily enough I thought I'd read that somewhere but wasn't sure. I think if I did that I'd be forever paranoid about it dipping or hearing squeaks...

So it's not a big "no-no" to just cut the boards and butt them against each other over the joist then? The overall floor area is 17m x 5m so a lot of H noggins would be needed and I'm up against it in terms of time as well as energy and enthusiasm lol.

Thanks for the replies. Sadly over a length of 17 metres and 40 joists there's no groups that add up to exactly 2400mm so I can't shift along to find a decent place to even start. Presumably the H noggins don't need to be the full depth of the joist - would 4x2 be ok?

The floor joist centres are not consistent enough to land the joins of the 2400mm x 600mm T&G boards on joists (anywhere over a 17m span). So I'm debating whether to cut the boards to ensure all joins are on a joist (thus losing the T&G aspect) or to fit noggins and essentially additional floor joists between them, which will be both more time consuming and costly. Or can I just fit noggins centrally perpendicular to the joints (presumably this needs the T&G to be in pretty good order, sadly some have been stepped on and chipped a bit so I'd need to be selective)? The boards will all be glued and screwed so I guess square cut edges meeting over joists wouldn't be an issue. Any advice would be most welcome. Thanks all

Thanks. Funnily enough I've been looking at the lead substitute stuff. I may pop over to the roofing place this afternoon and have a look at it. Does it just lay onto the valley boards and then presumably membrane, tile battens etc over the top?

Hi all, I've used GRP valleys where three pitched roofs fall onto a section of flat roof and thought I'd use the same GRP valleys on the other side where the dormer pitch meets the main pitched roof but I'm struggling to find any decent info on how best to do it. The GRP valleys I have are the under-batten ones with the raised central fin and I'm using 30mm concrete pantiles (Marley Modern). The GRP valleys aren't exactly flexible so I'm not sure how I "poke" these out between tiles while remaining flat enough to place the tile over - having screwed it in place it has to bend in order to get it to go over the tile and it doesn't seem to like it too much so I wondered about ditching the GRP and doing a hidden one and mitre cutting the tiles to meet. Or is there a better solution? Below pics show my use of the valley around the flat roof and also a pic I found of a dormer using the same GRP valley that I've got - any advice would be most welcome. Thanks all.

Thanks. That was kind of what I was thinking, but thought I'd check in case the consensus was that it wasn't necessary. It's another of those things where you could save a few quid now but in the future you wish you'd spent the extra.

Sorry, should have been clearer - they're attic trusses designed to be usable rooms (bedrooms and bathrooms).

I've just installed new attic trusses at 400 centres and am looking at floor options. The "room" is 17 x 5m (to be divided up with stud walls). I've heard that 22mm is a must for 600 centres but for 400 centres I could use 18mm... I just wondered what people's thoughts are on 18mm vs 22mm? I've not priced up each yet but as they say in King's Cross, twenty quid's twenty quid... 😉

Nice - gotta love a Guzzi!! I keep looking on and off for an old 1000S (green/black or orange/black) and also a Daytona or 1100Sport. So many toys to try, yet so little time (and money!) I never really got the Harley thing. A friend had a FatBoy which I had a go on and admittedly it was good fun but at 300+kg I wouldn't want to drop it!!!

I'd like to span the full width so I can swap ends if I rearrange the room and I may hang other items from it too (obviously vastly lighter than the motorbike, possibly a couple of mountain bikes etc). I did wonder about a timber I-beam or glulam etc but I think then the cost would exceed the cost of steel perhaps?? It's an old 90's Ducati Superlight. I've not started it for around five years so it will need recommissioning - at some point I will sort it but at the moment the house is the priority sadly. It's currently in the lounge but her indoors said that's not a long term solution - strange! It's a Ducati - I think officially it's about 170kg but I thought I'd err on the side of caution. (Harley's are generally over 200kg). Thanks for the input guys.

Hi all, I'm looking to install a steel across the width of my garage with a view to suspending a motorbike from it (I've not ridden it for a few years and it's more just a display piece now). The span is 5.7m and I wondered what spec steel I would need. I wouldn't hang the bike centrally - it would be nearer one end of the steel near the wall. The bike weighs around 180kg. I know I probably ought to speak to an SE, but I thought I'd see if there was any general consensus here on what spec I should go for. I'm kind of looking for the smallest possible size really so it's a) not too intrusive and b) I've got a fighting chance of getting it in place. Any help would be much appreciated. Cheers

Evening all, Having built up to DPC all round, I'm now building up the floor layers within the rooms of the extension. I have a couple of soil pipes which will need to run partly through the hardcore layer and also through the concrete layer. Any advice on how I should do this would be greatly appreciated. I was thinking about sleeving the 110mm soil pipe inside a 160mm soil pipe (since I have a load of that) within the hardcore and concrete layers. Or should I shutter off the route of the pipe through the hardcore & concrete. Or should I just lay the pipes surrounded by pea shingle and backfill around it and then concrete over? The construction drawings show the layers as follows: 70mm screed 100mm insulation 25mm sand blinding 125mm concrete slab (with A252 mesh) 25mm sand blinding 150mm well compacted hardcore. Also, is it ok to connect the kitchen waste into a soil pipe running from a WC using a strap boss kit (this would be under floorboards)? I hope I've described things ok. Many thanks for any input.

So like this then? Looks good to me! Thanks all. Stay tuned for more noob questions!!

Thanks Radian and Temp, both look a better layout than my diagram. The only observation I have on Temp's layout would be that a 440 padstone would then sit directly on top of a 440 block (ie not staggered) - is it ok to do that? Cheers